Who is using an oil deflector under the intake?

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zsn0w said:
I agree that it's good to be wary about who you believe and where their interests lay, but I believe their numbers based off what I've seen from their programming and read from them in articles. They seem to know what their doing, and I have chosen to trust them. Whether or not other people do is up to them. I think a lot of this kind of stuff is splitting hairs, but that's the point. Trying to find how much of an improvement something makes and at what cost. And the extra resistance to turn the alternator will be nowhere near the resistance of a fan.
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...and they may well know what they're doing. Did they compare what they supposedly gained from the loss of the crank driven fan with the added alternator load? I bet not. As smart as those guy are "supposed" to be, I'm sure at least one thought of it, yet it didn't get done. I wonder why? It could be because that addition to the testing would either have shown the change to the electric fan either negated the horse power gain eliminating the crank driven fan gave, or it would have been so close, there would really be no reason to change.

Now, I'm not against electric fans. They have their place. If I am alive long enough to get my project RobKat running, it will likely have one, but only because of space limitations. What I do chuckle at are all these threads titled "Help my car is overheating" or some such. Then you get into the thread and discover they've installed some bullcrap fan that moves 1900 CFM. Happens all the time.

IMO, IF YOU HAVE THE ROOM a crank driven works better, all other fans be damned and I'm sticking to it.
 
....and honestly, we've gotten way off track. If you want to keep discussing fans, please create a thread for such.......or better yet, go bring one of the MANY back to the top and we'll discuss it there.
 
I was looking at the baked on oil on the bottom of this crusty old LD4B and got a little carried away with it. Ended up semi-polished. I figured the smooth surface would absorb less heat. And I like to grind on stuff. Then it got a plenum blend and some black epoxy on top to pretty it up.

duster 10-1-16 003.JPG


duster 10-1-16 001.JPG
 
How hot does the oil get, and how is it cooled?
If you eliminate the bottom of the intake as a radiator to the outside world, then
do you need to replace it with another?
This is another reason I run the AirGap; My 7-blader is pumping air across that radiating surface below 30mph whenever the clutch calls for it. After 30/35 ram air does the same job, and the fan freewheels. At high speed, if ram air can't keep up, the Thermostatic clutch automatically cuts back in. That valley cover is a pretty big radiator plate.
If you run that tin-deflector, all the oil being flung around gets rerouted to the pan, straight down,onto the spinning crank which will probably whip it up like Smokey Yunich says; into a writhing monster (or something like that), which ends up , you guessed it, slowed down in the windage tray getting beat up, and heated up, and in the end costing horsepower.
IMO,the trick is to get the oil back to the pan, past the crank or past the ends of it.Sometimes you have to lose a few ponies to gain a few, like losing a battle to win a war, like saying yes dear.......
 
AJ/FormS said:
How hot does the oil get, and how is it cooled?
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200*’s-ish
It doesn’t get cooled unless you have an external oil cooler.


That valley cover is a pretty big radiator plate.
If you run that tin-deflector, all the oil being flung around gets rerouted to the pan, straight down,onto the spinning crank which will probably whip it up like Smokey Yunich says; into a writhing monster (or something like that),
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No it is not a radiator plate. It gets hot like the rest of the engine cats hot. No effect.


The oil follows the same path regardless, re-routed?Hardly! It will follow the same path it always does, so your theory of the plate costing HP is moot.

which ends up , you guessed it, slowed down in the windage tray getting beat up, and heated up, and in the end costing horsepower.
IMO,the trick is to get the oil back to the pan, past the crank or past the ends of it.Sometimes you have to lose a few ponies to gain a few.
Click to expand...

It shouldn’t cost you any HP!
The plate was designed as a part that prevents the hot oil (200*’s-ish) from heating the intake which in the past and sometimes even now has exposed runners.

The plate is a quick fix to keep the runners cool.

Also, from a serious racing mod as seen here on FABO where the valley has the exposed cam area covered and/or epoxied to stop oil from spilling onto the cam and crank.

The plate doesn’t add to it.

Running a air gap styled intake, RPM or other like divided runners from valley cover plate like a M1 single plane helps keep the runners cooler.

The real trick is incoming air & fuel. It is what is inside the intake that makes the power. Cool air and fuel into a hot intake makes less power than old air and fuel into a cold intake. Anywhere you can cut heat to the intake, inside and out is a plus.

Oil control should ideally send the oil from top to bottom without coming in contact with the cam and rotating assembly.

The windage tray doesn’t trap oil. If your volume of oil is so great from the crank alone, I know that is an issue! The windage tray should have openings large enough to allow the oil out at a rate where you and a buddy could dump 2+ gallons of oil into the tray and it would just run through it in a blink of an eye or faster. If this is not the case, your windage tray is inadequate and needs to be modified or swapped out for a superior unit.

Of course without getting deep, there are very deep pans where when does tray is not needed or a dry sump system.
 
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