I am really surprised this didn't kick up

I see your point in continuing the frame front to rear with similar size square tubing and this should almost act as a full frame under the unibody.
Certainly a benefit to a vehicle driven and launched hard.It would seem that the x member forward would need beefing up accordingly?
The smaller 3 sided or 2"x 2" tubing not so much.
If your thinking of the US car tool ones. They get seam welded to the underside of the floor pan boxing them in making them very strong. I didnt have $200 for em, plus I installed a shortened 74 dart floorplan in my 67 barracuda to replace floor rot and repair a previous owners hack butchery. Was not sure all the bumps in the US car tool ones would line up since my floor pan wasnt a 67 barracuda pan.

My connectors are tied in all the way back to where the framerail kicks up, the rear torque boxes overlap the connectors which overlap the rails. I slotted the floorplans in the back to run them thru, and opened up the box steel to overlap the rear rails, as well as adding in 3/4" water drain holes. They stick up only 1/2" thru the floor. Since pix were taken the floor has been welded to the subframe connectors. Additional padding on either side before I put carpet down and you will never know unless you look underneath the car.

They are welded to 1/8" lap transition plates that are then welded to the torsion bar crossmember. This transitions the load better than welding an 1/7" thick 2x3 box member directly to a thin trans crossmember. My pic, they are temp installed with clecos prior to welding. You can see how adding the transition plates will allow the load to go into the crossmember without cracking once welded up.

Since this is a street car I relocated my parking brake cable routing to lay inboard of the LH subframe connector. It now runs straight to the rear, and not having to have it cross over or under or through the connector is a better way of doing this.

My steel tube cost me $40 for a 12' stick, and was able to do them and the rad support. I did it on the cheap, looks good IMHO, head on down the road. If I was restoring this car stock I wouldent have bothered with any of this. Change the hacked up torsion bar member, and floor pan, and done. However it was a slant six 3 on the tree bench seat no option barracuda sports coupe. I bought it because it was cool looking, inexpensive to get back into the hobby after 20 years, and it had 3 pedals needed for a 4 speed conversion. All I wanted out of it was the body some suspension bits like the LCAs and clear title. All the slanty **** went right on the scrap trailer.

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