Dimples, dings, and dents in Header tubes. Any good tricks

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SLOPAR72

SLOPAR72

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My TTI's for the RB with Power steering are about to make nice but for me to accomplish this I need to massage some tubes. If I kill the coating so be it and I will deal with it over the winter however what I want to do is make the modifications and not look like a scene out of Braveheart lol....

So anyone got any good tricks? First time intentionally damaging header tubes so any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
JW
 
I put an appropriate sized socket on an extension, heated the pipe and beat on the socket to make a bit more uniform indent in the pipe rather than just hammering the tube with the hammer. I was clearanceing for the torsion bars.:BangHead:
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
I put an appropriate sized socket on an extension, heated the pipe and beat on the socket to make a bit more uniform indent in the pipe rather than just hammering the tube with the hammer. I was clearanceing for the torsion bars.:BangHead:
Click to expand...

Did you use the smoke wrench for the heat or did you get away with a handheld and some mapp gas? The hammer and bash theory doesn't excite me either.....

JW
 
The first place uncoated headers will rot is in the merges where the 4 pipes join, as that is where the moisture collects. Smacking the pipes never fazed me a bit. My TTIs were new in 1999.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
handheld and mapp will do the job fine.
Click to expand...
A BIG PAIR OF CHANNEL LOCKS WORK GREAT W/O HAMMERING IF UCAN GET THEM ON THE TUBES IN THE RIGHT POSITION, after heating . NEED TO USE SOME SORT OF SHIM TO GARD THE TEETH THO---
dam caps button just jumps out there much like a telephone pole when I was polluted once !
 
famous bob said:
A BIG PAIR OF CHANNEL LOCKS WORK GREAT W/O HAMMERING IF UCAN GET THEM ON THE TUBES IN THE RIGHT POSITION, after heating . NEED TO USE SOME SORT OF SHIM TO GARD THE TEETH THO---
dam caps button just jumps out there much like a telephone pole when I was polluted once !
Click to expand...

I researching how close my headers will fit with the Borgensen box. If what I am told is correct it will be a minimal amount of manipulating the headers to make it work..... Why TTI didn't accommodate the 1 3/4" for PS with a BB conversion is beyond me. The 2" is a whole different animal but whatever. It's hotrodding 101. I do like the pliers idea though.....

Thanks,
JW
 
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