Whistle while you,,,, drive?

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TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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Currently chasing the sudden appearance of an annoying whistle from my Edelbrock carb.
I had the insulating spacer between the carb and manifold and took the carb off to do some rejetting and out of nowhere I have a whistle at idle and just off idle to about 1,200 RPM's.

I thought, ok fine I have a leak at the base gasket although I didn't see any reason for it.
Everything looked good and looked like it was sealing well.
Fine, I pick up another 3/8 insulator and put it on with no change at all.
I had already checked all the intake bolts, base gasket, and plugged off all the vacuum ports including the power brake booster with ZERO change even in the pitch of the whistle.
It is definitely coming from inside the venturi area.

So with Edelbrock square bore carbs on an Edelbrock spreadbore intake it is recommended to use the adapter plate and gaskets (never needed it before, but ok) I pick up the adapter and gaskets along with a 2 inch stud kit because the stock studs were already barely long enough with the insulator.
Put that all together and ZERO change even in the pitch of the whistle.

Alrighty then, the next try is the airhorn gasket (mentioned by Edelbrock) because my current gasket had a small tear where the air cleaner stud passes through. (I usually just fit it back in place before I tighten the carb top screws and it's never been an issue)
I couldn't see how that little tear around the stud was going to cause a whistle, but hey what the hell.:D
Nope, zero change.

Then only thing left is a possible partial obstruction in the idle air and transition ports as mentioned by Edelbrock in their support pages as a possible cause.

We'll see.:D

I posted this mostly for the information of what has been suggested as a cause and what of those suggestions hasn't worked.
I'll get it eventually because I have tons of patience with this kind of thing, but to have this suddenly appear for no apparent reason is a bit annoying.
Next is blow out the idle and transition ports and see if it goes away or changes at all.

The engine runs great just as it always has, but whistles at and just off idle.
 
smart alec response hear:

it's the 120% volumetric efficiency you are hearing! look out low flying birds...
 
I know you said it was coming from the carb but I had a whistle exactly like you discribed and it was coming from the PCV, I changed it out and it stopped, I can't remember what I changed it to but I'll find out. Has the whistle changed with any of the changes you have made?

Jeff
 
I remembered reading about the whistling from a carb awhile back. Throttle shaft comes to mind. Try searching 1406 edelbrock whistling-2011... might help...I didn't finish reading the whole thread.
 
Throttle shaft is a good thing to check, same with the PCV.

Might also be worth looking at any vacuum caps you have on the carb. Seems like they don’t make them like they used to, I’ve had to replace several as they’ve developed cracks after not all that long. Probably a fuel additive problem. Or maybe just crap rubber. Either way, I’ve had multiple vacuum cap failures so if you’ve got any check them.
 
Currently chasing the sudden appearance of an annoying whistle from my Edelbrock carb.
I had the insulating spacer between the carb and manifold and took the carb off to do some rejetting and out of nowhere I have a whistle at idle and just off idle to about 1,200 RPM's.

I thought, ok fine I have a leak at the base gasket although I didn't see any reason for it.
Everything looked good and looked like it was sealing well.
Fine, I pick up another 3/8 insulator and put it on with no change at all.
I had already checked all the intake bolts, base gasket, and plugged off all the vacuum ports including the power brake booster with ZERO change even in the pitch of the whistle.
It is definitely coming from inside the venturi area.

So with Edelbrock square bore carbs on an Edelbrock spreadbore intake it is recommended to use the adapter plate and gaskets (never needed it before, but ok) I pick up the adapter and gaskets along with a 2 inch stud kit because the stock studs were already barely long enough with the insulator.
Put that all together and ZERO change even in the pitch of the whistle.

Alrighty then, the next try is the airhorn gasket (mentioned by Edelbrock) because my current gasket had a small tear where the air cleaner stud passes through. (I usually just fit it back in place before I tighten the carb top screws and it's never been an issue)
I couldn't see how that little tear around the stud was going to cause a whistle, but hey what the hell.:D
Nope, zero change.

Then only thing left is a possible partial obstruction in the idle air and transition ports as mentioned by Edelbrock in their support pages as a possible cause.

We'll see.:D

I posted this mostly for the information of what has been suggested as a cause and what of those suggestions hasn't worked.
I'll get it eventually because I have tons of patience with this kind of thing, but to have this suddenly appear for no apparent reason is a bit annoying.
Next is blow out the idle and transition ports and see if it goes away or changes at all.

The engine runs great just as it always has, but whistles at and just off idle.
Trailbeast, did you find a cure for your Duster whistling? Also had a question about exhaust manifold stud/bolt kit, wow, they are kinda salty but about to buy a set. You recon I could just get a good grade 8 match up at the local bolt and screw supply company downtown? What you use?
 
Trailbeast, did you find a cure for your Duster whistling? Also had a question about exhaust manifold stud/bolt kit, wow, they are kinda salty but about to buy a set. You recon I could just get a good grade 8 match up at the local bolt and screw supply company downtown? What you use?

Someone just PM'd me with that same question about the carb.
I just gave up on it for now due to the fact that it doesn't make it idle or run any different and because a friend is giving me a 750 which I wanted to change to anyway.

Yea I'm positive you can get bolts or studs a lot cheaper without any difference in function.
Just keep in mind you are going to have to get to whatever head is on them when a header tube turns right over the top of them.
I got a set of 3/8 12 point stainless header bolts from Summit and they are fine.
Don't even think you need grade 8.
5 would be fine.
 
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