cable kick down linkage adjustment

I have the engine and 904 mounted together and out of that car and thought that would be a great opportunity to set the linkages.

this is a mild race prepped 904 behind a naturally aspirated modified slant six with MPFI. using a GM 4.3 L throttle body, so things are not exactly stock. Using a Lokar cable to control the kick down.

I can set the kick down to have a little play in the cable with the throttle plate closed, but at full throttle the kick down lever lacks maybe 1/8 inch travel to the full open position.
or
I can set the kickdown cable to get full travel at the kick down lever at full throttle but have maybe 1/8 inch of preload on the kick down lever with the throttle plate closed.

this is a street / strip car, previously the car shifted great at the drag strip, with full throttle the shifts were fast and firm, normal driving, not so good, the tranny would hang in gear and upshift at higher than desireable street driving conditions. But I don't have good info on how the kick down linkage was adjusted then, or knowledge if the kick down even affects what is described in this paragraph.

so is more important to get full travel on the kick down lever with some preload or to have the kickdown lever not preloaded and give up some travel?

advice appreciated.

I take it that u have a Locar cable. Get A Buchillion kit. Kim

oldkimmer said:

I take it that u have a Locar cable. Get A Buchillion kit. Kim

Click to expand...

"Using a Lokar cable " is stated in the 9 line post, so yes you took it correctly.
you are awesome!

, thanks,

now on with the original question.

Oldkimmer could probably answer this if he takes another run at it, as he is a good tranny man.

Here is my take.

You have stated that you have set kickdown at full travel at full throttle, this is a good place to start. It will stay in gear the longest at the highest rpm at this setting.

Now you say you did not like the higher rpm shifts for regular driveability, so back it down in 2 turn increments until you like the rpm shifts for your regular driving habits.

Same thinking as adjusting the factory mopar rod style linkages. Can always manually shift it if you want it to stay in gear longer with the higher rpms.

Other side of the coin if you set the kickdown starting at closed throttle with very little play that does not fully open the kickdown at full throttle. Then this sets the stage for the real quick 123 shifts that is not allowing the engine to come into it's working rpm.

Have to adjust to a happy medium between these 2 methods to get the shifts at the rpms you desire.

The kickdown is the pressure valve of the transmission. If you are running it hard you will likely want more kickdown travel applied.

Ok so, u never really want to preload the kd/throttle pressure. If ur happy with the shift points when u have a little slack in the cable then ur probably ok. If not preload it a bit. The cables always need some tweaking to get the correct shift points ur happy with. Don’t forget the governor has an effect on how and when the tranny shifts. A&A is a good source for a governor. Kim

and the recent posts are why FABO is the place to be, thanks
good info as to not preloading the KD.
This tranny was built by A&A, I plan to talk to them, as every man needs to know his limitations,



I am not a transmission guy, so I was looking for some hip pocket information prior to contacting them.
Just to get the most out of the conversation.

I spoke with Robert at A&A,, he said the same thing as stated above,
the cable about always needs some adjustment for shift points - drivability
so I will set it up with a bit of slack at idle and start there, knowing that I could pull the cable forward.

Good. The only way u will know is a test drive. Kim