TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I figured I would share a couple of things that solve some common problems with A body cars.
Due to the inherent body flex, interior panels and parts make noises sometimes.
This includes creaking and popping plastic parts of the interior.
Backing those parts with terry cloth and not tightening the attaching screws real tight makes a big difference.
I pull every panel of the interior and back them with insulating padding and sheet plastic.
Same behind the rear seat on the board between the seat and structural bracing.
Both sides between the inner wheel house and the fender gets expanding foam insulation at the top.
It cuts down on body panel noise that you wouldn't know was there until you stop it.
Door panel rollers and hard top window adjustments are a pain in the backside.
Since the rollers were shot in one of my doors I used nylon and made my own rollers that fit the tracks tighter than the OE rollers.
I took all the rollers and studs off the regulator assemblies and replaced them with 1/4 fine thread machine style screws and nylon lock nuts with the newly made rollers.
This allows the glass to be "fine tuned" in any direction by loosening and moving the nylon lock nuts on the screw shafts.
Some of our roof drip rails end at the back exactly where it runs the water right down the back end of the rear side window. You can test yours with a little water.
At the end of the drip rail some cars have a gap where the rail drains the water before the actual end of the rail.
Filling that little gap directs the water out onto the fender more instead of draining it right on the glass and cat whisker rubber sealing edge and then down inside the panel.
Hope this helps with a few issue's, or at least gives some something to do.
Due to the inherent body flex, interior panels and parts make noises sometimes.
This includes creaking and popping plastic parts of the interior.
Backing those parts with terry cloth and not tightening the attaching screws real tight makes a big difference.
I pull every panel of the interior and back them with insulating padding and sheet plastic.
Same behind the rear seat on the board between the seat and structural bracing.
Both sides between the inner wheel house and the fender gets expanding foam insulation at the top.
It cuts down on body panel noise that you wouldn't know was there until you stop it.
Door panel rollers and hard top window adjustments are a pain in the backside.
Since the rollers were shot in one of my doors I used nylon and made my own rollers that fit the tracks tighter than the OE rollers.
I took all the rollers and studs off the regulator assemblies and replaced them with 1/4 fine thread machine style screws and nylon lock nuts with the newly made rollers.
This allows the glass to be "fine tuned" in any direction by loosening and moving the nylon lock nuts on the screw shafts.
Some of our roof drip rails end at the back exactly where it runs the water right down the back end of the rear side window. You can test yours with a little water.
At the end of the drip rail some cars have a gap where the rail drains the water before the actual end of the rail.
Filling that little gap directs the water out onto the fender more instead of draining it right on the glass and cat whisker rubber sealing edge and then down inside the panel.
Hope this helps with a few issue's, or at least gives some something to do.
