Lifters not moving freely

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bblock383

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Ok so Im on the home stretch of putting this 360 together and finally hearing it run and have run into 2 problems and I probably make a seperate thread on the other problem. So as the title reads I have installed my lifters in their bores but just barely. The fitment was very tight and it took a lot of oil to get them in and actually make them move up and down. I did develop and little bit of surface rust in the bores last year before winter but added oil to the bores to stop further rusting and when I go to the engine this year it seemed like the rust was gone oddly enough. But they do not move freely up and down for the most part.

Ive heard of them getting egg-shaped just like cylinder bores do but this is the first time Ive experienced this in my years of building different engines. I do have a honing tool that I could use on them but would they ease up on their own after running the engine? Im a little concerned that if I did hone them that I would do it too much. So what route do I take?
 
They MUST be able to rotate freely or you will destroy the lifter and/or cam!!!! Hughes Engines has a burnishing tool you can rent I think. A honing tool will likely get caught on the oil gallery cutous. They have very specific instructions to make sure your lifters rotate easily when installing on a new cam. Use this link and read instruction #7 Hughes Engines
 
RealWing said:
They MUST be able to rotate freely or you will destroy the lifter and/or cam!!!! Hughes Engines has a burnishing tool you can rent I think. A honing tool will likely get caught on the oil gallery cutous. They have very specific instructions to make sure your lifters rotate easily when installing on a new cam. Use this link and read instruction #7 Hughes Engines
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I watched a video of that tool being used and unless it can be used on an assembled engine that will not be an option. That tool would slam into my cam lobes on its way through the bores not to mention the "ball" end comes off it and you have reach through the cylinder bores to extract it. My bottom end is already cinched down and completed as is the cam. So now what do I do?
 
The rust ain't gone. But you need to clean it up. If the lifters cannot rotate freely, as mentioned they and the camshaft will fail quickly.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The rust ain't gone. But you need to clean it up. If the lifters cannot rotate freely, as mentioned they and the camshaft will fail quickly.
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What would you suggest I do to remedy this? All I have is a 3 pronged honing device. I think it would work its just a matter of keeping the junk from falling on the cam and in the motor and perhaps "over-honing" the bores.
 
bblock383 said:
What would you suggest I do to remedy this? All I have is a 3 pronged honing device. I think it would work its just a matter of keeping the junk from falling on the cam and in the motor and perhaps "over-honing" the bores.
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Yeah that's a problem. The only way I would do it is if the block was empty. That way you can wash it with Dawn and water and hose it slap back out with the garden hose. Yeah, it's that important. Is the only one you have the 3 stone? Any of the big box parts stores should have the little dingleberry brake cylinder hone. That's what I use. You'd have to work DAMN HARD to over hone with that. Spray some good penetrating oil (not WD40) in it and go.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah that's a problem. The only way I would do it is if the block was empty. That way you can wash it with Dawn and water and hose it slap back out with the garden hose. Yeah, it's that important. Is the only one you have the 3 stone? Any of the big box parts stores should have the little dingleberry brake cylinder hone. That's what I use. You'd have to work DAMN HARD to over hone with that. Spray some good penetrating oil (not WD40) in it and go.
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I may be able to hit up Harbor Freight and grab one if the 3 pronged one wont work. Why is one better than the other? I suppose I didnt consider that the block may be tougher than the honing stones but wouldnt have been confident enough to just dive in without being sure either.
 
Take it apart, hone lightly to remove the rust. Then, call Goodson Tool and Supplies to get the proper broaching tool. Oil and cleanup after both operations. Do it right, make it last.
 
A three stone brake hone will not work! I have tried one in the past. The oil galley passages will grab it a tear it apart.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
A three stone brake hone will not work! I have tried one in the past. The oil galley passages will grab it a tear it apart.
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So as suggested above a regular cylinder hone type would work? With the "dingleberries" on it?
 
I know your trying to do this without taking it apart. But that would be the correct way. Anything short of that your rolling the dice. But you have to make sure the lifters are free to spin free in the bores. If not you will wipe out a camshaft.
 
bblock383 said:
I may be able to hit up Harbor Freight and grab one if the 3 pronged one wont work. Why is one better than the other? I suppose I didnt consider that the block may be tougher than the honing stones but wouldnt have been confident enough to just dive in without being sure either.
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The stone type removes a lot of material. The little dingleberry type does not. Easier to control how much you remove.
 
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bblock383 said:
So as suggested above a regular cylinder hone type would work? With the "dingleberries" on it?
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To me, a dingleberry hone would get caught in the oil grooves faster than a reg. hone . I think I`d use a regular with stones long enough to stick out both ends of the lifter bore, and not pull or push it out either end while honing , all u want is to knock the rust out , not cross hatch it ---
 
I used something like this when I was building my motor this...it is basically a 1" Scotch-brite pad attached to a drill. Removes rust and not much else. You can get it in medium, fine, and extra fine grit.

Standard Abrasives Cross Buffs 265024

sai-265024_w_ml.jpg
 
If you do this with the motor assembled, how do plan to keep the abrasives out of the oil galleries? Answer is, there is no way to do it. One little piece of that red stuff (pictured above) or Scotchbrite gets in the gallery, and it'll screw things up real bad.
 
I'm not gonna say it, I'm not gonna say it. The HELL I'm not! I guess I'm gonna be the asshole here. If you want this thing to last, quit trying to cut the fat hog in the *** and take the damn thing apart and do it right. I understand the two steps forward, five steps back. But, there is absolutely no way **** is going to last if you do this with the engine assembled. I don't know how you're going to get a straight shot at anything with the heads on. Just get after it, disassemble, do it right. More time, more aggrivation(in one's mind), BUT, you will not regret it.
 
69_340_GTS said:
If you do this with the motor assembled, how do plan to keep the abrasives out of the oil galleries? Answer is, there is no way to do it. One little piece of that red stuff (pictured above) or Scotchbrite gets in the gallery, and it'll screw things up real bad.
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Yes, I agree, just part of building motors...that is why you per assemble EVERYTHING, and check everything. My last motor went together and back apart 4 times before all was said and done...isn't building engines fun?!?!? lol
 
7:30 pm to 10:00 am.....could of had it apart buy now and done it correct. Why is this a conversation. Do it right or do it twice or just plain do it wrong. On the second time around it will cost you some bucks if it even lives thru it. My God how dirty was this motor upon assembly. Do a pre assembly. CLEAN, OH YES I SAID CLEAN !!!! It was even stated in the post that you seen the rust before last winter. How crazy can you get. No wonder when some stranger tells me they just rebuild there motor I am not impressed.
 
Why argue WHAT he uses? Just let him GET THE RUST OUT and get the lifter bores cleaned up. He can use whatever gets the job done. Just so he gets it done.
 
Donnie514 said:
7:30 pm to 10:00 am.....could of had it apart buy now and done it correct. Why is this a conversation. Do it right or do it twice or just plain do it wrong. On the second time around it will cost you some bucks if it even lives thru it. My God how dirty was this motor upon assembly. Do a pre assembly. CLEAN, OH YES I SAID CLEAN !!!! It was even stated in the post that you seen the rust before last winter. How crazy can you get. No wonder when some stranger tells me they just rebuild there motor I am not impressed.
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Yeah there's "that".
 
I do not care how he removes the rust! Now if he does it while the short block is still together HE'S NUTS, PERIOD!!!!!!!! Its a fact.
 
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