Guys I am asking about how I can run numbers (of variables everyone asks me abut that I don’t have like cam profile and exact compression ratio) and look at what if scenarios to see what stall numbers come out. Just so I can learn how those variables are used. There has to be a reason I am asked about CR, Cam Profile car wt diff ratio tire size etc. How are these numbers used? I get the feeling it’s mostly opinion based on experience and not a calculated estimation ....too much or too little stall leads to power loss efficiency and heat. Just wondering if there is a calculator to plug these variables into.......
That being said I probably will go with your recommendations that is a 9” or 10” 3500. After I get my 3:55’s in.
I see 3500 stall converters like $500 to $800 which is not what I call cheap.
@Oldmanmopar what is cheap and what is the source?
Car is my 1970 Plymouth Sport a Satellite has a big cam 340 high rise M1 manifold Holley 3150 650 DP and A904 trans. Long tune headers with glass packs. Estimated weight is 3200lbs. Unknown cam and CR. Tires are 15” an are total 25” diameter. HP/TQ estimated? You tell me.....
See it run here
I really don't care who you purchase your converter from, so long as it's a reputable converter company. Buy direct from the builder of the converter rather than one of the many outlets you can get them from. I've said in other posts I've done, that while the person behind the counter or on the phone at these outlets can sell you many items the company stocks, he/she typically has limited knowledge on performance converters, while the converter builder has years of experience building converters.
If possible, get the car on a dyno and find out what your engine is actually putting out horsepower and torque wise. A lack of this type of information makes it very difficult for any converter builder to build you what your car needs stall-wise.
Don't let price be your guide line in making your purchase. I've seen enough in-expensive converters apart to tell you, "you only get what you pay for".
As for the 340 or hemi converters, that is might be a good starting point. There is an issue though in making that decision. The 340 Duster I bought brand new had an 11" converter in it(called a 10 3/4" by Chrysler), and I've never seen a true 10" diameter factory 340 converter. The stall speed on at 340 converter is factory rated at around 2300-2400 rpm, which as I recall was about what my Duster stalled at. It was a stock 340, with 3:55 rear axle ratio.
When I worked in the industry, any hemi converter was always a custom build(no core stock because of the rarity of the hemi), and usually while there might have been a 340 converter in stock, we wouldn't release them until we knew the customers core was a true 340 converter.
I don't envy your position. As mentioned by others: Not enough or too much stall will not give you what you're looking for.
JMHO
