Front coilover conversion mounts

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cu440da

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I just picked up a project that has been caged and back halved. Shock towers have been gusseted to the cage downtubes very well. I'm looking at using Magnumforce coilover mounts (along with RMS uppers) and am just curious if anyone has experience with this style conversion, and how they like it. I do not want a full k-frame conversion. Its a racecar that will see street time regularly.
 
I just picked up a project that has been caged and back halved. Shock towers have been gusseted to the cage downtubes very well. I'm looking at using Magnumforce coilover mounts (along with RMS uppers) and am just curious if anyone has experience with this style conversion, and how they like it. I do not want a full k-frame conversion. Its a racecar that will see street time regularly.

I have a full m.f. tubular front conversion. The engine is not setting on the front end, its on a motor plate w/ inside frame crush sleeves.
I made upper shock tower braces "and" top of the shock tower braces that tie into the down tubes , even built some lite weight front strut rods from the frame to the lower control arms , altho they are not hooked up , due to getting a front end alignment next Friday. They don't have anything to do w/ the alignment , just extra support for the lower a arms when hooked up. I think the motor plate is the reason I have had success with that front end kit. I keep a close eye on it tho.
Probly doesn`t answer ur question about compatibility------------------
 
I just picked up a project that has been caged and back halved. Shock towers have been gusseted to the cage downtubes very well. I'm looking at using Magnumforce coilover mounts (along with RMS uppers) and am just curious if anyone has experience with this style conversion, and how they like it. I do not want a full k-frame conversion. Its a racecar that will see street time regularly.
After seeing the reviews and problems with Magnum Force products recently, I would recommend staying away from them. It seems that quality is hit and miss of late.

that said, if you're needing coil over mounts and are going with a custom set up like that, Ron Sutton's shop sells are sorts of high quality suspension components including coilover mounts of all types and sizes for a very fair price.
 
I just picked up a project that has been caged and back halved. Shock towers have been gusseted to the cage downtubes very well. I'm looking at using Magnumforce coilover mounts (along with RMS uppers) and am just curious if anyone has experience with this style conversion, and how they like it. I do not want a full k-frame conversion. Its a racecar that will see street time regularly.
the other option is HemiDenny's coil over kit that keeps the factory K frame but uses coil overs. @HemiDenny
 
What are you running for rear suspension?

One thing about those upper soil over mounts and coil over set-ups in general is that because they use such a short coil-over shock, they don't allow for much front end travel. On my 66 Dart, I raised the top mount a bit to allow for a longer coil-over in order to get the 5-5.5" of travel recommended for caltracs.
 
What are you running for rear suspension?

One thing about those upper soil over mounts and coil over set-ups in general is that because they use such a short coil-over shock, they don't allow for much front end travel. On my 66 Dart, I raised the top mount a bit to allow for a longer coil-over in order to get the 5-5.5" of travel recommended for caltracs.

On my 74, with my Gerst, I got 6.5 inches of travel, thats with a 2 inch drop than factory ride height, the HemiDenny is advertised at 5.5 inches, as is the AlterKation from RMS, so it may vary from set up to set up.
 
On my 74, with my Gerst, I got 6.5 inches of travel, thats with a 2 inch drop than factory ride height, the HemiDenny is advertised at 5.5 inches, as is the AlterKation from RMS, so it may vary from set up to set up.

Those advertised numbers are total travel from full compression to full extension. Calvert recommends at least 5" from ride height to full extension.
 
I just picked up a project that has been caged and back halved. Shock towers have been gusseted to the cage downtubes very well. I'm looking at using Magnumforce coilover mounts (along with RMS uppers) and am just curious if anyone has experience with this style conversion, and how they like it. I do not want a full k-frame conversion. Its a racecar that will see street time regularly.

If you have a caged and back halved car why do you want to use the stock K frame?

There are reasons why almost all of the coilover conversions use a full K-frame as part of the conversion. Race cars are one thing, but if you plan on spending time on the street you need to be able to work out the suspension geometry. Just throwing together a bunch of parts with a set of coilovers is not going to result in a suspension that works well. You have to be able to run the geometry numbers, or use a kit from someone that has.

Those advertised numbers are total travel from full compression to full extension. Calvert recommends at least 5" from ride height to full extension.

That’s almost twice as much as these cars had from the factory. Bump stop-to-bump stop on the factory suspension is only about 5.5” of total travel.
 
I know of Magnumforces reputation, thats why I am only considering the mount. Its a machined piece, seems hard to screw that up. I'll check out Ron Sutton and see what they have to offer.

At this point I dont feel an aftermarket k frame is necessary since the shock towers are gusseted already and they seem as sturdy or sturdier than would be in a kit and it'll retain factory steering geometry.

I've also read about the limited travel, which is one reason I was asking about how people who have this set up like it. Raising the shock mount isn't out of the question if needed.
 
After seeing the reviews and problems with Magnum Force products recently, I would recommend staying away from them. It seems that quality is hit and miss of late.

that said, if you're needing coil over mounts and are going with a custom set up like that, Ron Sutton's shop sells are sorts of high quality suspension components including coilover mounts of all types and sizes for a very fair price.

I have heard a lot of bad mouthing them, and probly wouldn`t buy again, but less than half price when almost brand new and nothing wrong w/ it was hard to pass up. I have done a few things to strengthen it , and think not having the engine setting on it is probly the right way to go. . And have noticed a few things in pics of other brands that I don't like , after comparing to mine. I could not run my set up w/ torsion bars. If I ever change it , I kept the complete form. S front end.
No problems with this one.------I just tool around on the street , w/ a little *** kicking/harassing corvettes and rustangs , w/ an occasional mopar meet. Definitly not a corner carver , but I out grew that yrs ago.
 
the downfall to the coil over only conversion (with unmodified upper shock mount) is......the limited space for shock length.

simply perform this test.....place your car at your desired ride height and measure lower shock mount to upper shock mount. The longest shock (Qa1 DD or DS 303) that I find available that meets the installed ride height specs of the shock manufacturer has only 3" complete travel.

On the rack and pinion / coil over conversions we have change the LCA pivot point for correct geometry.....the plus is that change allows for a longer installed ride height for the shock.

I'm all eyes and ears if you can show me how to fit 14" (installed ride height spec of a shock w/ 5-3/8" of travel) ............in a 11" space.

JMO....yours may vary. :)

edit...Thanks mopowers....I clerified the first sentence
 
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I'm all eyes and ears if you can show me how to fit 14" (installed ride height spec of a shock w/ 5-3/8" of travel) ............in a 11" space.

Raising the top mount will allow the use of a longer shock. Mine sit at 13.5" installed height.
 
I guess I should have been more specific and paid closer attention to the OPs question....I meant without cutting factory sheet metal...AND this is a race car with a cage and snout bars, likely with modifications to upper shock mount / sheet metal already made. In most of the cases of upper shock mount modification, 5" to 7" of travel is not out of the question.

I agree and have suggested doing just that to anyone willing to cut / modify their factory sheet metal, especially if they have removed the inner fenders and attached snout bars (that attach to a cage, not the firewall sheet metal).


how did you raise yours?
 
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I guess I should have been more specific and paid closer attention to the OPs question....I meant without cutting factory sheet metal...AND this is a race car with a cage and snout bars, likely with modifications to upper shock mount / sheet metal already made. In most of the cases of upper shock mount modification, 5" to 7" of travel is not out of the question.

I agree and have suggested doing just that to anyone willing to cut / modify their factory sheet metal, especially if they have removed the inner fenders and attached snout bars (that attach to a cage, not the firewall sheet metal).


how did you raise yours?

That's a good call and exactly my set-up- snout bars with no inner fenders. I just notched the factory shock tower and built it up a tad higher with tabs to bolt the upper shock to. It sounds like the OP may have a similar set-up as well.

There are plenty of quick cars out there using short travel shocks. But it's nice knowing I have extra travel available if I need it.
 
As it sits with shock simulators, the shock height is at 12". That may change as I get a chance to get working on this. Raising the height wouldn't be hard to do at this point. I am curious though- are shock options better if I changed the mounting point to a double shear through bolt end instead of the bayonet style?

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As it sits with shock simulators, the shock height is at 12". That may change as I get a chance to get working on this. Raising the height wouldn't be hard to do at this point. I am curious though- are shock options better if I changed the mounting point to a double shear through bolt end instead of the bayonet style?

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yes....I think you are on the right track. I'm sure you already decided if you are going to change it.... raise it. The longer the shock, the greater the travel. Remember, a lot of fast drag cars limit the travel.

a 12" ride height shock will yield 4" of travel.....like the Qa1 DD (double adjustable) 403
 
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