Built Small Block 360/727 Combo for Street/Strip Scamp. Opinions welcome!

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dugascarman

dugascarman

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Hello FABO members. I'm looking for some opinions on the drivetrain for my '72 Scamp. Looking to run 7.30s-7.50s in the 1/8 and still go to the occasional cruise night. But the car will see mostly track but only be on the street every once and a while. Here's What I'm thinking. Feel free to comment and make suggestions.
360 block bored .030 over with kb107 pistons
Holley strip dominator intake with 750 carb
Edelbrock Performer RPM 63cc heads
1.5 roller rockers
Stock crank and Rods with ARP Bolts (not looking to go stroker at the moment)
COMP XE294H Cam
727 with manual valve body, low first gear set, race clutches,etc
4300-4500 stall
8 3/4 Sure Grip with 4.30 Gears (debating 4.56s)
28x10x15 slick on 15x10 Weld Prostars (car has already been mini tubbed and springs relocated 4 inches)
Super Stock Springs
Adjustable shocks in rear
Car has disc brakes, and will have no back seat, 2 Kirkey racing seats and mild steel 8 point cage.
Look forward to input! Thanks in advance
 
727 with low gear set ..there are no OEM gears ...only expensive aftermarket....
904 has OEM low gear set is generally .15 to .20 faster then the 727,,,,,

4.30 with 2.74 1st gear..
4.56 with 2.45 1st gear
 
70aarcuda said:
727 with low gear set ..there are no OEM gears ...only expensive aftermarket....
904 has OEM low gear set is generally .15 to .20 faster then the 727,,,,,

4.30 with 2.74 1st gear..
4.56 with 2.45 1st gear
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Ok thank you! I’m still young and a beginner wasn’t sure if there was a low first gear set for 727. Was just thinking about 727 because of durability. Thank you!
 
crackedback said:
Why a hyd cam with the rockers. I'd go solid without hesitation
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I'm trying to do this kind of on the cheaper side honestly. I know Its going to be hard to get a decent flowing head for cheap but I can swing the edelbrocks for now. This cam seems a bit more affordable on my budget
 
That mild cage is very heavy. Get a molly cage half the weight. Just check the shipping weight on both. You will not believe the difference.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
That mild cage is very heavy. Get a molly cage half the weight. Just check the shipping weight on both. You will not believe the difference.
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Moly although nice requires tig welding and not everyone is up to that job. Don’t overthink your project and spend unneeeded money.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Moly although nice requires tig welding and not everyone is up to that job. Don’t overthink your project and spend unneeeded money.
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After cutting the cage from my duster and trying to carry it. I will never install a mild steel cage again. I went to S&W and picked up a new moly 12 point. I could carry the whole kit by myself. The mild steel cage took two people to carry a 8 point. I already looked at an old race car that had a cage made from exhaust pipe. I couldn't believe it. Was it due to it being cheaper or for weight loss? What ever his plan was it wasn't for safety.

If welding is the issue? find someone that has a Tig welder. Unless you are putting the cage in for show. A mild cage will mean more motor work to make up for the weight gain. Mig welds break Tig welds bend. Mild steel cages become spears.

My son's friend Frank hit the wall at over 200 mph. A mild steel cage would have broke apart. A cage is nothing you want try and save money on unless it is for looks. Frank had some head swelling from brain jolt but walked away.



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You are talking about to different animals here. Don’t get me wrong moly is nice but for 90% of us mild steel helps our budget. Of the 8 cars I’ve owned 1 was moly and so far never made it to the track, one was mild steel and I hated the cage so a buddy redid it for me and it only cost 100.00 more to go moly because he bent the cage and liked working with it. My 7.50 legal Daytona was mild steel and ran a best of 8.40@160mph before an oil line broke and I rolled the car. I try to get guys to race on a budget, have fun and enjoy the sport. Lots of my friends spent every cent they had and now no longer are in the sport. My 1974 Duster will spec to 6.0 but when I get it stickered will go with 7.50 because it’s good for 3 years and 6.0 is only good for 2 years. Budget baby, budget.
 
pittsburghracer said:
You are talking about to different animals here. Don’t get me wrong moly is nice but for 90% of us mild steel helps our budget. Of the 8 cars I’ve owned 1 was moly and so far never made it to the track, one was mild steel and I hated the cage so a buddy redid it for me and it only cost 100.00 more to go moly because he bent the cage and liked working with it. My 7.50 legal Daytona was mild steel and ran a best of 8.40@160mph before an oil line broke and I rolled the car. I try to get guys to race on a budget, have fun and enjoy the sport. Lots of my friends spent every cent they had and now no longer are in the sport. My 1974 Duster will spec to 6.0 but when I get it stickered will go with 7.50 because it’s good for 3 years and 6.0 is only good for 2 years. Budget baby, budget.
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You may think budgeting your safety and others safety are acceptable . I do not. My son wears a Hans device when ever he is on the track in a car. Oval track or drag strip you never know when that big hit is coming. You will change your attitude when you walk up to a friend who you just talked minutes before dead in their car because they didn't think it would ever happen to them . I'll bet you don't even were the suitable fire retardant clothes even though you have a cell mounted in the car. There is no such thing as racing on a budget when it comes to saftey.

I'll bet you Dale Earnhardt Jr. wished his dad had worn neck restraint. Take a short cut where ever you want but don't advise others to do the same. I know someone who was the coolest Friday night racer. He was driving a 12 sec Dart . Who needs the safety equipment at those speeds? Were his words also. He would always throw the car into nuetral and coast to the return lane. One day at Nuemedia Raceway. He shifted it into reverse. He walked into the machine shop a week later. He wasn't such a big mouth about unnecessary cost of safety equipment that day. He looked like a walking mummy. "Isn't that right Tony" Why don't you tell them what hurt more. Your body or your pride .

If you are a true racer that loves the sport preach safety to the younger guys growing into it. I pitted and sat with the parents of a 16 yr old out on the track in the same feature as my son. He was killed on the track in front of our eyes. Just the way he was folded up like a piece of cardboard. You could see he was dead. Bullit speedway Brashier Texas 2006. If your kid has a $5 head get him or her a $5 helmet!
 
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When ever I think of these unibody cars and how much of an impact they take. I look at this picture I have in with my Photos. Brace them with the strongest material you can't afford.

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Pulling the wheels on the start on a 160 1/4 mile run is good for the ego. Lifting them after the 60 ft in a 196 1/8 mile run that is good for the heart rate.
 
1/8 racing...probably less then 100 mph. Home made subframes connectors And roll bar will get it done
 
pittsburghracer said:
You mean he’s not going to go 200 MPH. Lmao.
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Hit the wall at under 100 mph . Let me know how things work out for ya. I will be the one LMFAO
Here's a guy that said who needs saftey eqiupment for an 1/8. No cage , No belts, No brains. but he has $2000 worth of wheels. Under 80MPH in an 1/8 whats to worry about? He probably listened to his buddy and bought those fancy wheels instead of a good cage and belts. The car did look good while he was coming out the windshield.

 
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Oldmanmopar said:
Hit the wall at under 100 mph . Let me know how things work out for ya. I will be the one LMFAO
Here's a guy that said who needs saftey eqiupment for an 1/8. No cage , No belts, No brains. but he has $2000 worth of wheels. Under 80MPH in an 1/8 whats to worry about? He probably listened to his buddy and bought those fancy wheels instead of a good cage and belts. The car did look good while he was coming out the windshield.

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Buddy you are way out in left field. Earth to space come in. My Duster is mild steel and IHRA and NHRA spec to 8.50. So are you saying they are idiots. Please tell me you are and Engineer because you sure would like a few I worked for. Book smart but an idiot in common sense
 
crackedback said:
Last I recall. nascar cup cars are mild steel.
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100% FACT. They are mild steel. And Earnhardt would be dead with or without a neck restraint.

Some people have no clue WTF is going on. There is nothing wrong with mild steel for many applications. Yes, it weighs more, but many drivers I see could lose enough weight to make up the difference. Plus, look over the cars and you'll probably find many places to save weight to make up the difference.
 
This has certainly gone off the rails a bit.

A well built 6 or 8 point bar is fine in a car running 10.00 or slower. Have the shoulder belts mounted properly and go. Once you go faster, rules dictate a cage which can be MS or CM. CM has certain features that transfer MORE energy to the occupant which can be just as bad. Pick your poison.

The guy coming out the windshield is an IDIOT of epic proportions. With even a decent set of belts, he's not rag dolling his stupid ***. Nice car with a guy rocking a 50 cent brain. Guessing the helmet may not have been strapped either based on what happened after he got out of the car.
 
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