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Things you MUST DO (and have not) from the sounds of it..........
1....Check timing mark accuracy (TDC) with a piston stop
2....Check cam timing preferably with a degree wheel. IF YOU are using "dot to dot" be damn careful you aren't off a bit (easy with parallax) or that you have a multi key sprocket (they are not "gears") and that you are using the wrong marks
3....Bring engine up to the timing marks on compression stroke. There are only two ways that are practical. One is stick your finger in no 1 plug hole, bump the engine and feel for compression. Now wrench the engine that last part of a turn and put the timing marks WHERE YOU WANT THE TIMING that is about 15 BTC.
The second way is if you have either rocker cover off, rotate the engine until the marks on on TDC. Now determine if no1 or no6 valves are both closed. Whichever cylinder has both valves closed IS THE ONE which will fire. If no 6 rotate the engine 1 full turn so the marks are back up, and that will be no1 ready to fire
4...Now drop in the dist. Where the rotor points is not important, put the body of the dist so the vacuum can has rotational clearance from the manifold and firewall. Rotate the dist. body CW (retard). Slowly rotate back advance (CCW) until the points open or until the reluctor is in the middle of the pickup coil. YOU CAN CHECK TIMING ON THE STARTER with a timing light. "I'd go" for about 10-15* on a mild 340 type cam, more if a "hot" cam
With the timing marks "up" on the no1 compression stroke, plug the no 1 wire in wherever the rotor is "just coming to" going CW and feed in the rest of the wires
5....START IT UP
