62 Valiant dash lights

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gsoco

gsoco
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OK. Thanks to you all, most of my electrical issues are over! However, dash / instrument cluster lights still don't work. All other accessories and lights work except gas gauge (pegs low)....Any more ideas? Thanks!
 
if gas gauge is pegged low...sounds like an open circuit ie a broken wire to the tank sender, disconnected at the sender or the sender resistor is open or tank itself is not properly grounded to the car. Easy to test this with a VOM. If your temp gauge is working, it is powered by the same CVR thus states supply and control voltage is operating. So with this in mind, scenario two could be open between CVR and gauge, verify that the input to the gauge from the CVR is a pulsed voltage being applied.
 
dash lights could be supply, control and or ground....supply, see if you have 12 volts out of the headlight switch at the rheostat part of the switch...(the resistor that controls brilliance) if voltage is there and its output is changed in varied voltage by turning the rheostat...then check supply to the instrument lights....this is usually an orange wire.....if the voltage is going to the lamps via the orange wire and the bulb holders...then you may have a grounding issue with the cluster itself not going back to ground through the body. Easy checks again with the VOM both voltage and grounding paths.
 
If the wire's got continuity from the fuel gauge sender at the tank all the way up to the dashboard, then here's a list of parts you might need to fix it:

Sender float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B (N/A from Chrysler any more; this one fits and works perfectly)

Sender Strainer "sock": GM P/N 5651 705 (factory strainer at the end of the sender's fuel pickup pipe is probably clogged, degraded or missing -- here again, N/A from Chrysler and this one fits/works)

Gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475 (replace every time you remove the sender)

Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N 2258 862 (necessary or you won't get a gauge reading)

If none of that fixes it, you're down to needing a new sender and/or a new gauge.

Dashboard lights: make sure it's not just all the bulbs being burned out; if that's not it, follow the advice already given in this thread. Corrosion/dirt/failure in the dashboard light rheostat built into the headlamp switch is a common cause of no dash lights.
 
dash lights could be supply, control and or ground....supply, see if you have 12 volts out of the headlight switch at the rheostat part of the switch...(the resistor that controls brilliance) if voltage is there and its output is changed in varied voltage by turning the rheostat...then check supply to the instrument lights....this is usually an orange wire.....if the voltage is going to the lamps via the orange wire and the bulb holders...then you may have a grounding issue with the cluster itself not going back to ground through the body. Easy checks again with the VOM both voltage and grounding paths.
Thanks...I'll have a look tomorrow when it cools off!! Cheers!
 
if gas gauge is pegged low...sounds like an open circuit ie a broken wire to the tank sender, disconnected at the sender or the sender resistor is open or tank itself is not properly grounded to the car. Easy to test this with a VOM. If your temp gauge is working, it is powered by the same CVR thus states supply and control voltage is operating. So with this in mind, scenario two could be open between CVR and gauge, verify that the input to the gauge from the CVR is a pulsed voltage being applied.
:thumbsup:
 
If the wire's got continuity from the fuel gauge sender at the tank all the way up to the dashboard, then here's a list of parts you might need to fix it:

Sender float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B (N/A from Chrysler any more; this one fits and works perfectly)

Sender Strainer "sock": GM P/N 5651 705 (factory strainer at the end of the sender's fuel pickup pipe is probably clogged, degraded or missing -- here again, N/A from Chrysler and this one fits/works)

Gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475 (replace every time you remove the sender)

Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N 2258 862 (necessary or you won't get a gauge reading)

If none of that fixes it, you're down to needing a new sender and/or a new gauge.

Dashboard lights: make sure it's not just all the bulbs being burned out; if that's not it, follow the advice already given in this thread. Corrosion/dirt/failure in the dashboard light rheostat built into the headlamp switch is a common cause of no dash lights.
 
If the wire's got continuity from the fuel gauge sender at the tank all the way up to the dashboard, then here's a list of parts you might need to fix it:

Sender float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B (N/A from Chrysler any more; this one fits and works perfectly)

Sender Strainer "sock": GM P/N 5651 705 (factory strainer at the end of the sender's fuel pickup pipe is probably clogged, degraded or missing -- here again, N/A from Chrysler and this one fits/works)

Gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475 (replace every time you remove the sender)

Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N 2258 862 (necessary or you won't get a gauge reading)

If none of that fixes it, you're down to needing a new sender and/or a new gauge.

Dashboard lights: make sure it's not just all the bulbs being burned out; if that's not it, follow the advice already given in this thread. Corrosion/dirt/failure in the dashboard light rheostat built into the headlamp switch is a common cause of no dash lights.
:thumbsup:
 
Hello again Dan :-/

Below is the status of my 62 Valiant...making progress, but still a few issues. I have tried to jumper from the working dash light to the PC board lighting circuit - no joy... The ammeter amp gauge is odd I think - wondering if the problem with the ballast resistor and the reverse polarity on the ammeter gauge are connected? Could I have the gauge wires reversed? I think they're right looking at the wiring diagram, but still... Anyway, once again, thanks for help / advice in advance.
Cheers,
Jason
PS - Forgot still don't know if fuel gauge or temp gauge work...
5-25 Status.png
 
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If ammeter is "reversed" either it's not actually charging or the wires are reversed. With engine off turn on headlights and confirm it goes to discharge. If not, reverse the wires

Dash lights...........what have you actually done to check. Most all dash lights work same in these cars

They get there power from the park/ tail circuit which feeds to the headlght switch. Headlights ONLY power is a separate source.

Dash light "functional path" is from light switch---through dash dimmer switch---TO fuse panel INST fuse--------to all dash controlled lighting on orange wiring

So to work, the tail/ park circuit must work, the switch must be in park or head, the dash dimmer must be twisted "to the left" and the INST fuse must be good and making connection.

First thing I'd do is double check park/ tail lamps work, and then with light switch on and dimmer control to left, check for power at the INST fuse. If you don't have it there, suspect a bad dimmer control in the switch. Twist it vigourously a bunch to clean it and watch for intermittent lamp operation.

Also check for other lamps than the cluster such as heater/ radio If they work and not the cluster, it MUST be right in the cluster, or harness connector
 
If ammeter is "reversed" either it's not actually charging or the wires are reversed. With engine off turn on headlights and confirm it goes to discharge. If not, reverse the wires
Done

Dash lights...........what have you actually done to check. Most all dash lights work same in these cars
They get there power from the park/ tail circuit which feeds to the headlight switch. Headlights ONLY power is a separate source.
Dash lights work... The only lights not working are the three that plug into the printed circuit board.
So far:

Replaced the board, tested the lamps, tested the plug in fixtures, tested fuses...so have determined there is just no power to the printed circuit for these lights

Dash light "functional path" is from light switch---through dash dimmer switch---TO fuse panel INST fuse--------to all dash controlled lighting on orange wiring

So to work, the tail/ park circuit must work, the switch must be in park or head, the dash dimmer must be twisted "to the left" and the INST fuse must be good and making connection.
Tail lights work, parking lights do not... understand the switch operation...fuses tested, orange wires have between 0 and 12 VDC when headlamp rheostat operated.

The only lights not working are the three that plug into the printed circuit board. So far:

Replaced the board, tested the lamps, tested the plug in fixtures...so have determined there is just no power to the printed circuit for these lights
First thing I'd do is double check park/ tail lamps work, and then with light switch on and dimmer control to left, check for power at the INST fuse. If you don't have it there, suspect a bad dimmer control in the switch. Twist it vigourously a bunch to clean it and watch for intermittent lamp operation.

Also check for other lamps than the cluster such as heater/ radio If they work and not the cluster, it MUST be right in the cluster, or harness connector.
OK. Thanks!
 

Dash lights work... The only lights not working are the three that plug into the printed circuit board.
So far:

Replaced the board, tested the lamps, tested the plug in fixtures, tested fuses...so have determined there is just no power to the printed circuit for these lights


OK it's "right there" at those lights at those traces, right on the board. Either bad lamps, bad lamp/ socket contacts, dirty board traces, or broken trace(s)

Some dash clusters are "split" into 2 boards and so have multiple connections between the two.
 
Instrument illumination lamps ground to/through the screws that attach circuit board to housing, the housing and screws housing to dash. They wont work while panel dangles from wiring/harness connectors but.... you state high beam indicator works. It is getting a ground from somewhere. Maybe recheck the board mounting screws. Any stripped out or missing?
 
if gas gauge is pegged low...sounds like an open circuit ie a broken wire to the tank sender, disconnected at the sender or the sender resistor is open or tank itself is not properly grounded to the car. Easy to test this with a VOM. If your temp gauge is working, it is powered by the same CVR thus states supply and control voltage is operating. So with this in mind, scenario two could be open between CVR and gauge, verify that the input to the gauge from the CVR is a pulsed voltage being applied.
CVR??? Not familiar with the term...thanks.
 
Gauges are supplied by a mechanical voltage limiter ( I haven't seen it called "CVR" either ). Your limiter is likely inside your fuel gauge. If temp and fuel gauges work, the limiter is working. Most common cause of constant low fuel gauge is hole in the senders float.
 
Gauges are supplied by a mechanical voltage limiter ( I haven't seen it called "CVR" either ). Your limiter is likely inside your fuel gauge. If temp and fuel gauges work, the limiter is working. Most common cause of constant low fuel gauge is hole in the senders float.
Thanks. The float is new...I was told by Slantsixdan that the voltage limiter was in the temp (center) gauge...and looking at the printed circuit board (which also is NOS) it appears to make sense...I am seriously considering adapting a set of Bosch gauges...
 
Thanks. The float is new...I was told by Slantsixdan that the voltage limiter was in the temp (center) gauge...and looking at the printed circuit board (which also is NOS) it appears to make sense...I am seriously considering adapting a set of Bosch gauges...
Yes some early models did have the limiter inside the temp gauge. I never know what models changed when. Simple way to tell,,, basic gauge has 2 contact posts. A gauge with more than 2 posts has something more inside. If the mechanical limiter fails, substituting a solid state instrument voltage regulator is fairly simple but that doesn't fix faulty gauges. A fuel gauge lives a hard life compared to other gauges. That needle would race to some position at every switch cycle. Fuller the tank the hotter the gauge. I've renewed a dang bunch of these fuel gauges that were totally toasted inside. About half as many oil gauges and a lesser number of temp gauges.
 
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