Just can't get the timing right and it has no bolt 1980 Chrysler lebaron 3.7l

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So I found it for $700 I have replaced alot distributor,coil, alternator,starter, spark plugs and wires, ballast resistor, all had reasons why but I have the valve covers off and I look for the intake valve to open and close then set the balancer to the mark on timing markto zero and the rotor to number spark plug and it just cranks stop crank. But I had it backfiring out the carb with gas idk what's going on?
 
Could be a bad ignition module (or spark computer if 'lean burn') or could have a bad distributor pickup. No telling until you check those things out,
 
So I found it for $700 I have replaced alot distributor,coil, alternator,starter, spark plugs and wires, ballast resistor, all had reasons why but I have the valve covers off and I look for the intake valve to open and close then set the balancer to the mark on timing markto zero and the rotor to number spark plug and it just cranks stop crank. But I had it backfiring out the carb with gas idk what's going on?
OK, first, did You verify that the piston is at TDC when the timing marks are aligned at -o-???? If the damper slipped, it could be off, even with a matched t-cover/damper pairing.
Second, is it backfiring after You let off the key from cranking? If so, the brown start to coil-side of the ballast could be not making contact....either in the ign. sw., or any of the connections in between.......

P.S. You aren't 180 out if You are lining up the rotor at TDC right after the intake closes, unless You're turning the engine counter-clockwise!!!!
 
You aren't 180 out if You are lining up the rotor at TDC right after the intake closes, unless You're turning the engine counter-clockwise!!!
Or like you say; if the piston is not at #1 TDC compression.

OP;
The #1TDC compression is the principle player.
The cam could be anywhere, taking the distributor with it and giving an erroneous intake closing point. Everything has to be referenced to #1 TDC compression.
EDIT: you probably know this but on Mopars the #1 cylinder is always the first one on the crank making it the the furthest forward cylinder.
 
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So I found it for $700 I have replaced alot distributor,coil, alternator,starter, spark plugs and wires, ballast resistor, all had reasons why but I have the valve covers off and I look for the intake valve to open and close then set the balancer to the mark on timing markto zero and the rotor to number spark plug and it just cranks stop crank. But I had it backfiring out the carb with gas idk what's going on?
I been trying to get this thing running for a month a month wish somebody in Houston can stop by and help out? But when I'm on tdc the Piston will be all the way up
 
But when I'm on tdc the Piston will be all the way up
You wrote it in the future tense,and without punctuation; so not sure you mean you understand, or you are questioning, or just stating a fact....so
It's supposed to be; TDC means Top Dead Center
But here's the thing; it takes two complete revolutions to complete the 4-stroke cycle. So at TDC the piston could be at the top of the compression cycle or it could be at the end of the exhaust/beginning of intake cycle; also called the overlap period. Make sure the piston is at TDC #1 and on the compression cycle.
But the cam also has to be in phase with the crank so that all the cycles are occurring at the correct time. The easiest way to spot that without taking a lot of stuff apart , is to make sure that split-overlap is occurring at about TDC, but one full revolution before... or after TDC compression. It is common practice to use #1 for this, because if all the parts are correct then you can use the balancer to verify this. But if the balancer or chain cover are not correct then it's hopeless, so really you can use any cylinder for checking split overlap, so long as the piston you are using is at TDC/on the overlap cycle. It's just (usually) easier to use #1 or #6, due to the timing marks (usually) being there.Split overlap, the point where both intake and exhaust valves are open about the same amount, should occur within a few degrees of TDC, usually before the piston reaches TDC, and within 4* to perhaps 8*.
If the camchain has jumped (or is broke or the cam is broken), then split overlap can be anywhere; which has to be fixed first.
If the balancer mark is not correct,but the balancer is correct, and the locating key is not torn off; then you will have to make a new correct TDC #1 mark.
The crank drives the cam, drives the gear, drives the I-shaft,drives the D-shaft, drives the flyweight cam, drives the rotor..The gear on the intermediate shaft has to be pinned to that oil-pump drive, so the Distributor driveshaft remains timed to the cam at all times.
So if the cam is synced to the crank but the rotor is out-to-lunch and you didn't put it there, then the I-shaft should come out for inspection.
Happy HotRodding
 
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.The gear on the intermediate shaft has to be pinned to that oil-pump drive, so the Distributor driveshaft remains timed to the cam at all times.
So if the cam is synced to the crank but the rotor is out-to-lunch and you didn't put it there, then the I-shaft should come out for inspection.
Happy HotRodding

Slant Six . No intermediate shaft
 
I been trying to get this thing running for a month a month wish somebody in Houston can stop by and help out? But when I'm on tdc the Piston will be all the way up
Doing it by turning the crank clock-wise from the front, and watching the intake valve close, the piston will be on it's way up. When it reaches the tippy-top, it will be at TDC #1 compression. This is when the dizzy rotor needs to be pointed at wire tower #1 on the cap. The catch is, there is a period where the piston "freezes" before & after the crank is "straight up" between the main journal center and the piston pin. So the conn rod sees X amount of degrees of angularity change while the piston seems not to move. This is why You need to use the piston stop method to find the exact center of that small amount of crank rotation, so that Your timing marks read -0- when the rod and crank throw are in as near a perfect line between wrist-pin and main center.
 
There is a thread in this forum, (use the search function) on the correct bolt(BB Mopar) to put in the Slanty crank.........but You might wanna wire-brush-on-a-drill it and spray/blow-out the crap 'cause there is sure to be plenty of rust & dust in there.
 
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