Help Identifying

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DentalDart

DentalDart

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I've been searching the site and the google and haven't found a real answer to identify my engine. If you could help me decode or point me in the direction it would be greatly appreciated.

On the front of the block is stamped-
-DW 340 225 10409
-FA 40196

Thanks in advance.

20190727_134527.jpg


20190727_134527.jpg


20190727_134534.jpg


20190727_134709.jpg
 
Ps- sorry about the crappy pictures.

I'm just trying to make sure I know what I have to try and get AC in it, and probably a new radiator. From the looks of the stamp on the radiator I have a radiator from a 225

20190727_134712.jpg
 
DentalDart said:
-DW 340 225 10409
-FA 40196
Click to expand...
D= 1968 model year
W=Windsor assembly plant
340 = 340 cu in

Not sure about the following:
2251= Day 2251 is Tuesday, September 26, 1967
0409= 409th engine produced that day

FA 40196=?

You might want to get a better look at the numbers maybe some black or white paint in the stampings would help.
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
D= 1968
W=Windsor assembly plant
340 = 340 cu in
225= ?
10409=?
FA 40196=?

You might want to get a better look at the numbers maybe some black or white paint in the stampings would help.
Click to expand...

That's about what I came up with too, except the D meaning 1968.

Looks like my AC compressor blows air just not cold. I pulled all the tabs that were pressed in on the dash from either po or my kids, and air started coming from the under dash vents. I also noticed there was no belt attached to it, so it may just need a belt or it may need a belt and refrigerant.
 
D = 1968
W = Windsor plant
340 = C.I.
2251 = September 26 1967 build date
0409 = 409 unit that day
FA40196 could be a machine shop # from a rebuild
 
Look at the bell housing on the trans and the engine at the top for the vin # they should be in the same place and match the body.

006.JPG
 
brian6pac said:
Look at the bell housing on the trans and the engine at the top for the vin # they should be in the same place and match the body.

View attachment 1715369944
Click to expand...

I would do that but I know this isn't a #'s matching car. It was originally a gold 69 custom. Now it has a 340 engine and I'm assuming stock trans and rear end. I just got it 2 weeks ago, but I got a 727 tranny and a 8 3/4 with 3rd member sure grip and 3.23s that I'll eventually install. Going through the little things to make it a decently reliable driver first.
First pic is when it got delivered second is yesterday .finished the top and brakes these past 2 weeks. Now needs the AC done to drive in 110 degree heat of Las Vegas .

20190712_132955.jpg


20190726_173009.jpg
 
brian6pac said:
D = 1968
W = Windsor plant
340 = C.I.
2251 = September 26 1967 build date
0409 = 409 unit that day
FA40196 could be a machine shop # from a rebuild
Click to expand...

Man you guys are geniuses!

Thanks a bunch! I
Dana67Dart said:
IIRC the \6 has one dimension that is 19 vs the SB V8 which is 22
Click to expand...

Yeah I looked up radiators and stock 340's had 22in radiators 440's and some high performance 340's had 26's. (From radiator company webpage if incorrect me if I am wrong).

I just had looked up the part/serial # on the radiator and it said it was from a 225 /6 car.
 
HemiSSDart said:
All 67-72 Dart small or big block had 22" radiators...
Click to expand...

Maybe someone should let speedcooling.com know that lol.

Thanks for the educating! Always amazed how fast I recieve accurate information here. Compared to some of the the VW/Audi/Jeep forums, this place is amazing!
 
DentalDart said:
Looks like my AC compressor blows air just not cold....I also noticed there was no belt attached to it, so it may just need a belt or it may need a belt and refrigerant.
Click to expand...
Yeah, both are required! :p I feel you on the heat. My trucks A/C didnt work so I pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes on it and filled it with 55 psi of liquid propane. seems to have a slow leak somewhere (found some bubbles on high side fill post) and R134 is ~$30 a lb out here. So far so good, cools enough to not have to use 4th fan speed. Propane is also called R290 with no stink in it, used in reefers and RV fridges.
 
DentalDart said:
I've been searching the site and the google and haven't found a real answer to identify my engine. If you could help me decode or point me in the direction it would be greatly appreciated.

On the front of the block is stamped-
-DW 340 225 10409
-FA 40196

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 1715369919

View attachment 1715369920

View attachment 1715369921

View attachment 1715369922
Click to expand...


Read this thread to find out about how to decode the engine block....

How to ID a Small Block Engine Block:
 
Last edited:
pishta said:
Yeah, both are required! :p I feel you on the heat. My trucks A/C didnt work so I pulled a vacuum for 30 minutes on it and filled it with 55 psi of liquid propane. seems to have a slow leak somewhere (found some bubbles on high side fill post) and R134 is ~$30 a lb out here. So far so good, cools enough to not have to use 4th fan speed. Propane is also called R290 with no stink in it, used in reefers and RV fridges.
Click to expand...

Yep got a belt and installed it, only hot air blown though it. Gotta find some R12 to fill it and see what happens haha .
 
DentalDart said:
Yep got a belt and installed it, only hot air blown though it. Gotta find some R12 to fill it and see what happens haha .
Click to expand...
R12? Good luck! $$$ Just try cheap propane to find the leaks.....you may stick with it. Fill it with the camp bottle inverted to get a liquid fill. I made a filler with an old screw on torch head that had a valve on it and some AC rated manifold hose. Attach it to your guage set and let her rip. 55 psi on an 85F day. The pump on the ground is a salvaged fridge compressor that I use the inlet for the vacuum source. Start off slow until the clutch kicks in then add to pressure. Hillbilly! :usflag:
charge.jpg
 
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Dana67Dart said:
Good luck. If you can find it it will be super expensive. Look into R134 conversion
Click to expand...

Yea I found some on CL in Vegas, like 30 bucks.

I believe so, the pulley was spinning.

Edit- I did realize there is a wire on the top of the ac compressor that is not plugged into anything... Looked at the wiring diagram for a 69 dart, then quickly realized I don't speak Chinese...:rofl: so... I'll have to try and figure out where that plugs in as well.
Im assuming it is right here..

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Last edited:
Automotive A/C systems are not designed for Propane or isobutane, with respect to the flammability of the compounds. I would recommend switching to 134a for safety.
 
R134 is $5 for 12 oz can in Kansas at Walmart. You can buy it on Amazon for about $6-10 a can. Can also buy a nice set of hobbyist gauges for about $40
 
DentalDart said:
I would do that but I know this isn't a #'s matching car. It was originally a gold 69 custom. Now it has a 340 engine and I'm assuming stock trans and rear end. I just got it 2 weeks ago, but I got a 727 tranny and a 8 3/4 with 3rd member sure grip and 3.23s that I'll eventually install. Going through the little things to make it a decently reliable driver first.
First pic is when it got delivered second is yesterday .finished the top and brakes these past 2 weeks. Now needs the AC done to drive in 110 degree heat of Las Vegas .
Click to expand...

Maybe not your matching #'s but might be for someone else, hint hint
Nice car by the way.​
 
I've probably done 100 conversions to R134, in the 80's you had to replace everything but in the 90's they figured out just drain it put in some PAG oil and charge it with R134. That's it no big deal, and it works great.
 
My /6 AC dart came with a factory 22in radiator. I’m still using it with my 340. Just had to get radiator hoses that worked.
 
That is the prettiest blue I've ever seen. What color is that?
 
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