One wire alternator wiring? with OEM harness?

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Caco2120

Caco2120

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Hey all,

I know the obvious...that the charge wire goes to the positive post on the battery.

BUT....does anything need done with the factory wiring? the old voltage regulator wires? The old charge wire?

Anything need tied together so gauges, lights, etc still all get their due current? or is it pretty much a hide the aforementioned wires, and go.

thanks!!!
 
Hide and go. Wire feeding the voltage regulator that is hot when ignition switched on needs to be capped off. Check with ign on which wire is hot, then cover it with a couple layers of shrink tubing.
 
I use a GM one wire on my car...I know....I know....GM....but it's cheap and puts out 14 volts all the time, anyway didnt have to do anything but hook the 12v wire from the harness to the alternator, I hid the field wires in the factory harness. Left the voltage regulator on the car and plugged in because nothing is going to it...easy peezy
 
If ignition switched voltage reg feed wire shorts to ground your wiring will melt together in the harness. Be safe not sorry.
 
plymouth67 said:
I use a GM one wire on my car...I know....I know....GM....but it's cheap and puts out 14 volts all the time, anyway didnt have to do anything but hook the 12v wire from the harness to the alternator, I hid the field wires in the factory harness. Left the voltage regulator on the car and plugged in because nothing is going to it...easy peezy
Click to expand...
Hope your not using the factory ammeter and wiring, if so, read and repair before impending disaster strikes...
Vintage Chrysler electrical repairs and updates
 
Definitely. And heavy gauge gauge keeping the run as short as possible. At least no.4, preferably no.2, no joke! Add in a slow-blo fuse at the same rating as the max alternator output, fast -blo 5%-10% over capacity. You have to use an excessively heavy gauge wire back to battery because the output wire acts as a sensing lead back to the internal regulator in the alternator to read the battery voltage. Dielectric grease and heat shrink everything to seal. If there is any voltage drop, it will keep the battery in a state of constant charge, not good! I am probably going overkill with the wire sizing but cleaning up battery acid isn’t my idea of fun.
 
So i want to bump this to the top.
Factory ammeter stopped working with this conversion.

I ran an independent, 4 gauge wire direct to battery from alt.

I know ammeter is fairly useless, but kinda annoyed at another dead factory gauge.

I traced wires from the Oe regulator back to the plug on the firewall, and unplugged it. Water temp was only other one in it. And it also died long ago.

Also randomly lost gauge backlights.

Did unplugging this voltage regulator harness plug kill a ground??

Even hooked oem charge wire back up temporarily and ammeter still inop.

Thx guys
 
Update, insta blow on fuse #8.
With car off.

Cluster has turn signal, and bright indicators.

Oem temp and charge wire completely disconnected.
 
The problems with a one wire are not only with the crap OEM wiring, but related.

1....OEM wiring is not nearly large enough, not even "back then" was it

2...Deterioration over the years takes it's toll, ammeter and bulkhead connector

3....One wire alternators, even relatively small output, need a HUGE upgraded charge wire BECAUSE THE VOLTAGE SENSE is on that wire. Voltage drop when charging will let the system voltage sag
 
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