Any tips on masking a 72 dart grill for paint?

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MoparMike1974

MoparMike1974

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Im going to re-paint my 72 dart grill and it looks like its going to be a nightmare. How are you supposed to mask all these little fins?
 
I would spray the silver first, mask those areas, then spray the black. Still going to be a pain, but it seems like there is less silver to mask.
 
Tricky! get some 1/4" masking tape and some 1". I think I did the black first on mine, then the silver. Just remember to take your time and go slow. It'll pay off when you're done! if you do it right you'll be blown away! (Check out my avatar!) Too bad we weren't closer, I'd pick it up and paint it and charge you very little, maybe in exchange for car parts! :)
Good Luck!!
 
I have used a thinned grease and a small paint brush in the past. After it dries you just wash it with dish soap and VWALLA! An old neighbor that was a body man showed me that trick years ago. Doesn't always work, but in small areas that are difficult to mask it does a pretty good job! I use it to mask small stickers & labels also.
 
I asked Rick Ehrenberg how the factory did it, and never got a response, so it must just be FM.
 
Pretty sure the factory had custom stencils and/or a pad print setup.
 
. . . . . this always helps

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Yeah I would think the factory used a heavy reusable stencil. The grease thing got me thinking. In fiberglass work you use something called mold release(PVA, polyvinyl alcohol). Goes on and dries to a thin film and can be washed away with water afterwards or even peeled off. I might have to give that a try.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
YThe grease thing got me thinking. In fiberglass work you use something called mold release(PVA, polyvinyl alcohol). Goes on and dries to a thin film and can be washed away with water afterwards or even peeled off.
Click to expand...

PVA is basically any of the white glues, Elmer's, Titebond, etc. (think woodworking) I thought maybe rubber cement could work. In grade school, we used to paint it on our fingers and gross the girls out by peeling it off once it dried. As long as the glue doesn't attack what it's spread over, it should work.
 
I did my 71 grill myself. Took about 7 hours. First off, the black areas are natural black plastic, not painted from the factory. I spend a few hours with a tooth bush and Q-tips cleaning the black plastic with plastic cleaner and conditioner. Then some minor sanding of chips and edges. Another cleaning and then masking and paint.
Used 1/4", 1/2", 1" amd 2" tape and an Ecxato knife.
Grill restoration places want around 600.00 to do it but they painted the black which is not correct and I didn't want that.

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MoparMike1974 said:
No, not white glue. Its usually green and is sprayed on to help keep fiberglass parts from sticking to the mold. But yeah I bet you elmers glue would work as a mask.
I ordered some pva and will give it a shot. I will post back and let you know if it worked.
PVA PARTALL by REXCO MOLD RELEASE #10 PARTING FILM pint 16oz FREE SHIPPING 710928968725 | eBay
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No, no. Use this "Vallejo Liquid Mask":
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Places carrying airbrush supplies will have it, or something similar.
 
After reading through this thread I can see why restorers get big bucks for their work.
 
The 72 grill was not molded in black plastic, its grey. They painted the black and silver on but its not apparent which order.
Just ordered some liquid mask, gotta have a back up plan :)
 
Good to know. My 71 Dart grill and my 71/2 Plymouth Satellite grills are molded in black.
Let us know how it turns out.
 
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