1965 Dodge Dart front blinkers and turn signal switch.
Thank you for your time.
Waiting for parts, hopefully come today.
Bill
Ok, here is a bit about the progress. I did not realize several more people had replied here, well, now I have read. Anyway, I bought a switch from OCPNW, Old Cart Parts NW I think it stands for. Sorry Dan, I had already ordered it when you chimed in. Anyway, this part looks very much like the one you have 3 pics of above.
By the way, just so people does not come up with the idea of telling me about volt and amps and whatever else and waste time on that, my profession is a combination of mechanical and electrical, industrial automation is my specialty, repaired everything from fishing boats to computer controlled machinery in a food factory. I have education in both fields, 9 years together. Old Ferguson farm tractors and American cars is a hobby since before military, Ford cars mostly, but to a certain degree at least, a car is a car, I mean, there are some basics shared. Details might be different, very different too.
So, the turn signal switch came, and I could start playing, I broke off the cancelling cam, so I could get into the switch itself. Took it partly apart, and used sand paper on the contact points, put it back together, and the switch works like it did before it even rolled off the assembly line. Now, the cancelling cam had the tabs broken off, so it was maybe time to replace that instead of replacing the entire switch. I got one from O'Raley's... ha ha, it is made by Standard, and look fine. Did not look close enough, put it back together, and the arm became hard to move. Backed off the bolt, and took it off. What was wrong. Well, the thickness of the plastic where the bolt is holding it to the lever is much thicker than the original one, so the bolt press the plastic too hard down to the switch itself before it stops in the metal. So, put it back together and used Loctite 242 on the threads, and tightened it lightly and let it be with that. The fact that the plastic was thicker is not such a bad idea in itself, because the old one cracked just there because the material was too thin.
More about that in a few.
Since I do not have the original steering wheel I got into more trouble. I put the steering wheel back on, and since the base with the splines is of aluminum it expands when the big nut is tightened and get further down on the steering shaft. In addition, those who designed the contraption (read: lousy steering wheel), found it necessary to have the copper disk for the horn roller so wide that it also cover the bolt for the turn signal handle. So, when I turn the steering wheel I am either waking up the entire neighborhood, or make them go to bed and drag the comforter over their heads.
Now, if Standard had made the cancelling cam as per the book, this would not have been an issue, but they chose to make it a little different. And since the steering wheel also is "different", it is just a mess.
Those who have made the brand new switch has gone even further than Standard Motor Products, so if I had used that, the horn would have been constantly on, and not like now, that is on only when I lean a little on the wheel.
I have not decided what to do yet, it might be, either take the cancelling cam off, and grind off some material so the bolt gets further down. Or, wait until I have the original steering wheel restored and in place.
Bill
