65 Dart Heater AC Fan Problem
Hello 65, Again, my apologies for being so long in getting this to you. Regarding the FSM (Field Service Manual), if you look at the diagrams regarding wiring in the 65 vs. the 66, there is a color change on some of the wiring. As well, in the early 65 cars, they used a different fan switch. With that said, the new switches are different than either the OEM 65 or 66 switches. This caused me a lot of headaches, and I hope this will help you when you do yours. In pic 002, the older looking switch is an OEM 65, and the newer looking switch (the one on the top) is the newer switch which I purchased from Classic Industries. As a reference, you will note that the vacuum ports have three in one row, and four in the other. Using the one with three ports, I will call that the bottom of the switch....I will reference, from this point, the new switch in pic 003. To the right of the vacuum ports, on the bottom, (C1A), this is a hot wire from the fuse block which is a light green wire, on the top, directly above the light green wire, (C2), this wire says dark blue, but it is a light blue wire on a 65 vs. dark blue on a 66...this wire goes to the temp control switch....this switch is the switch which is attached to the left side of the AC box....the switch right next to your right knee as you are sitting in the driver seat. On the right side of the vacuum switch there are three terminals, and the one clear to the end of the switch is the hot wire fee called C1B which is, actually, C1 which is the Black with a white tracer. This is a fused wire between C1 and C1B. Next, is where I was having a problem. In Pic 003, there are two remaining terminals, there is one at the bottom of the switch, and there is one opposing C1B/C1. The book calls for the brown wire, C4A to be hooked to the opposing terminal, but when I did that, when I pushed the heat or defrost buttons, I lost power to the fan. I ohmed and test lighted all the wires, switches, and resistors, and all were good. Then, I hooked the brown wire, C4A, to the terminal, among those three, to the lower/bottom terminal, and all worked well. One other point is the vacuum hoses and actuators. When I assembled the dash, I did not test the actuators. I had a problem with the AC/Heat Door not opening and/or closing. It turns out that the Actuator that sits right above the passenger side kick panel is the actuator that operates the AC/Heat open and close door. This actuator, for me, worked in one direction, but not the other. I changed the actuator, and things worked fine. The lines that run this actuator T off, and they also run the water valve which is under the hood on the passenger side. For me, this actuator worked, but at the end of the open or close cycle, the case had a leak which caused a loss of vacuum making the AC/Heat door not to open or close despite changing out that actuator. End story is this, Hook up all the wires as described in the FSM except for the brown wire....hook the brown wire up, on the new switch, as I described; as well, be sure that the vacuum lines are routed as the FSM notes, and check the actuators to be sure that they function. Hose leaks, actuator leaks, and incorrect routing created a real mess for me, and I am glad to be done with that problem. Thank you for your input as I appreciated your time. I wish I knew how to mark the switch terminals as that would make things a bit more easy to understand. I will see what I can do with the computer, and if I can figure that out, I will send a pic with the marked terminals on the new switch. Thanks. sgrip65
Hello 65, Again, my apologies for being so long in getting this to you. Regarding the FSM (Field Service Manual), if you look at the diagrams regarding wiring in the 65 vs. the 66, there is a color change on some of the wiring. As well, in the early 65 cars, they used a different fan switch. With that said, the new switches are different than either the OEM 65 or 66 switches. This caused me a lot of headaches, and I hope this will help you when you do yours. In pic 002, the older looking switch is an OEM 65, and the newer looking switch (the one on the top) is the newer switch which I purchased from Classic Industries. As a reference, you will note that the vacuum ports have three in one row, and four in the other. Using the one with three ports, I will call that the bottom of the switch....I will reference, from this point, the new switch in pic 003. To the right of the vacuum ports, on the bottom, (C1A), this is a hot wire from the fuse block which is a light green wire, on the top, directly above the light green wire, (C2), this wire says dark blue, but it is a light blue wire on a 65 vs. dark blue on a 66...this wire goes to the temp control switch....this switch is the switch which is attached to the left side of the AC box....the switch right next to your right knee as you are sitting in the driver seat. On the right side of the vacuum switch there are three terminals, and the one clear to the end of the switch is the hot wire fee called C1B which is, actually, C1 which is the Black with a white tracer. This is a fused wire between C1 and C1B. Next, is where I was having a problem. In Pic 003, there are two remaining terminals, there is one at the bottom of the switch, and there is one opposing C1B/C1. The book calls for the brown wire, C4A to be hooked to the opposing terminal, but when I did that, when I pushed the heat or defrost buttons, I lost power to the fan. I ohmed and test lighted all the wires, switches, and resistors, and all were good. Then, I hooked the brown wire, C4A, to the terminal, among those three, to the lower/bottom terminal, and all worked well. One other point is the vacuum hoses and actuators. When I assembled the dash, I did not test the actuators. I had a problem with the AC/Heat Door not opening and/or closing. It turns out that the Actuator that sits right above the passenger side kick panel is the actuator that operates the AC/Heat open and close door. This actuator, for me, worked in one direction, but not the other. I changed the actuator, and things worked fine. The lines that run this actuator T off, and they also run the water valve which is under the hood on the passenger side. For me, this actuator worked, but at the end of the open or close cycle, the case had a leak which caused a loss of vacuum making the AC/Heat door not to open or close despite changing out that actuator. End story is this, Hook up all the wires as described in the FSM except for the brown wire....hook the brown wire up, on the new switch, as I described; as well, be sure that the vacuum lines are routed as the FSM notes, and check the actuators to be sure that they function. Hose leaks, actuator leaks, and incorrect routing created a real mess for me, and I am glad to be done with that problem. Thank you for your input as I appreciated your time. I wish I knew how to mark the switch terminals as that would make things a bit more easy to understand. I will see what I can do with the computer, and if I can figure that out, I will send a pic with the marked terminals on the new switch. Thanks. sgrip65
