Reading the E.T. slip for newbie racers

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318willrun

318willrun

Utube channel 318willrun
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We've all got our first E.T. slip at one point...…. And some will get their first slip on the next coming weekend. Hope this helps somebody :)
Reaction Time does NOT effect the E.T. or MPH. It only matters in competition.
 
Great information as always! Thanks a bunch I have to admit I learned something new! I did not know to divide the mph by the feet to get your potential et!
 
Another informative video, thank you ! One of the best things about this site , is that guys with knowledge sure seem to willingly want to pass that info on . Alot of us appreciate your time.
 
Ok, question. I know hp is based on speed through the traps. However, what happens if you spin all through first gear, lift and get back in it, then pull a 2.8 short time. How accurate is your mph then?

Why I'm asking is, last year I did exactly that. I left a little too hard, spun bad, lifted. Then as soon as it hooked I got back in it. My 1/8th time was a 10.215 but I hit 76.03mph. The 60ft was an abysmal 2.804 seconds!!!

My fan ended up hitting the rad, so I didn't get another pass.

So theoretically, 76mph should be good for an 8.68et. However, if I actually hooked, and didn't spin, shouldn't my mph increase as well?
 
vntned said:
Ok, question. I know hp is based on speed through the traps. However, what happens if you spin all through first gear, lift and get back in it, then pull a 2.8 short time. How accurate is your mph then?

Why I'm asking is, last year I did exactly that. I left a little too hard, spun bad, lifted. Then as soon as it hooked I got back in it. My 1/8th time was a 10.215 but I hit 76.03mph. The 60ft was an abysmal 2.804 seconds!!!

My fan ended up hitting the rad, so I didn't get another pass.

So theoretically, 76mph should be good for an 8.68et. However, if I actually hooked, and didn't spin, shouldn't my mph increase as well?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the question. Yes, for sure you can kill you MPH with doing a 1/8 mph burnout... LOL. Or by missing a gear in a clutch car, etc. But, even if you smoked the first 30 ft, let off, and hit again and go, I bet you'd only lose about 4 mph in the 1/4. So, even still, the mph would show more potential than the ET on the slip.
 
So if I gained 4mph from a good hook, then I'd be potentially capable of running 8.25s at 80mph? That's not bad at all!
 
vntned said:
Ok, question. I know hp is based on speed through the traps. However, what happens if you spin all through first gear, lift and get back in it, then pull a 2.8 short time. How accurate is your mph then?

Why I'm asking is, last year I did exactly that. I left a little too hard, spun bad, lifted. Then as soon as it hooked I got back in it. My 1/8th time was a 10.215 but I hit 76.03mph. The 60ft was an abysmal 2.804 seconds!!!

My fan ended up hitting the rad, so I didn't get another pass.

So theoretically, 76mph should be good for an 8.68et. However, if I actually hooked, and didn't spin, shouldn't my mph increase as well?
Click to expand...

vntned said:
So if I gained 4mph from a good hook, then I'd be potentially capable of running 8.25s at 80mph? That's not bad at all!
Click to expand...
Answer... You eff'ed up your only chance! LOL :BangHead::poke:
Fix-It, try it again and you'll know...:thumbsup:
 
318willrun said:
We've all got our first E.T. slip at one point...…. And some will get their first slip on the next coming weekend. Hope this helps somebody :)
Reaction Time does NOT effect the E.T. or MPH. It only matters in competition.
Click to expand...

Excellent! Maybe for a spin-off or second video you can explain a bracket racing time slip and how to win and lose at both ends? I know at our local track there's nights that are test and tune and there's nights that just about any test and tune car can jump into a bracket race. I'm sure if someone wanted to try that it would be nice to know how to read that as well...
 
Something I used to do with my time slips was compare segment times and MPH. If the car sped up or slowed down in MPH or time I could use the comparison to figure out where it changed.
 
j par said:
Excellent! Maybe for a spin-off or second video you can explain a bracket racing time slip and how to win and lose at both ends? I know at our local track there's nights that are test and tune and there's nights that just about any test and tune car can jump into a bracket race. I'm sure if someone wanted to try that it would be nice to know how to read that as well...
Click to expand...
bracket race? Man ole' live, that would be a 30 minute video. When to sandbag, when to dial honest, when to stage deep, when to get the rollin' start, how to follow the weather channel, when to brake on the big end, and when to stay in it,..... and the obvious is a best reaction time possible. LOL, I'll skip that one. I guess I'd just tell a newbie to dial honest, cut the best light possible, and stay in it. LOL....... :D
 
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Yeah, for new bracket racers, just dial it hard (honest) and try to not win by too large of a margin. Half a car length ish is fine…don’t win by a full car length or more, because you are probably breaking out and going to lose.


Holding numbers (sand bagging, dialing soft, etc) should only be done by experienced racers…otherwise you are just giving yourself more ways to lose….but if you know what you are doing (and done correctly), holding numbers can help you win races that you had NO business winning. When/if I hold anything, it is usually just to cover my reaction time…or if the track in marginal (tracking issues) dial soft enough to account for that variable, but remember, whatever you hold you have to get rid of at the stripe or you WILL break out and lose.


Example time slip: If I think I’m going to cut a 0.030 light or better then I would dial up 0.03. In this example, my car should have run a 6.59 all out, but I dialed a 6.62. I missed the tree a little (0.043) and my opponent had a much better light (0.028). By dialing soft I was able to get out in front and control the race.


At the finish I had to decide to either take the stripe, or give it to my opponent. Knowing I was holding some, I had to slow down, and since he was close I decided to take the stripe…Granted, I got lucky on this one….I like to take 0.01-0.001 stripe, and I accidentally took 0.0002 (less than ½ an inch) and won.


On the flip side, if my opponent had been really close to me before I slowed to lose the numbers I was holding, I would have tapped the brake to get in behind him and let him have the stripe…..because that would indicate that he was on a breakout pass (or it would indicate that I REALLY missed the tree)...either way, let him eat the stripe.


Clear as mud…..good…..

IMG_3489.JPG
 
Good info for the new to sport. I've been using Wallace for years on my old cars and its quite accurate for the average d/slammer, your method 1320 div x mph, not having tried it before, shows a deficiency of approx 1.5>2 tenths on my cars to the actual mph run.

Where it falls down as well as all the other calcs and here there is something else to understand is where you get a car that 60fts like a stocker where 60's can be as much as a 1/10th quicker than the average fair chassis, the lack of mph that generates will show a slower ET to the calcs, example>

We have 2 A/SA stockers here that run times in the mid>high 9.70's@131>132 max, with 60's in the high 1.2's with the back wheels, that mph only shows up as 10.1>10.0.
 
Hot Metal said:
Good info for the new to sport. I've been using Wallace for years on my old cars and its quite accurate for the average d/slammer, your method 1320 div x mph, not having tried it before, shows a deficiency of approx 1.5>2 tenths on my cars to the actual mph run.

Where it falls down as well as all the other calcs and here there is something else to understand is where you get a car that 60fts like a stocker where 60's can be as much as a 1/10th quicker than the average fair chassis, the lack of mph that generates will show a slower ET to the calcs, example>

We have 2 A/SA stockers here that run times in the mid>high 9.70's@131>132 max, with 60's in the high 1.2's with the back wheels, that mph only shows up as 10.1>10.0.
Click to expand...
Very true. I thought I mentioned that in the video that stockers will get on the + side of the E.T. by a few tenths (which you have). A bracket car can run the number, and street cars fall a few tenths behind. Still a good ball park figure that shows the potential of a car.
 
yes a good clear explanation of how it all works in your vid:thumbsup:
 
flyfish said:
Yeah, for new bracket racers, just dial it hard (honest) and try to not win by too large of a margin. Half a car length ish is fine…don’t win by a full car length or more, because you are probably breaking out and going to lose.


Holding numbers (sand bagging, dialing soft, etc) should only be done by experienced racers…otherwise you are just giving yourself more ways to lose….but if you know what you are doing (and done correctly), holding numbers can help you win races that you had NO business winning. When/if I hold anything, it is usually just to cover my reaction time…or if the track in marginal (tracking issues) dial soft enough to account for that variable, but remember, whatever you hold you have to get rid of at the stripe or you WILL break out and lose.


Example time slip: If I think I’m going to cut a 0.030 light or better then I would dial up 0.03. In this example, my car should have run a 6.59 all out, but I dialed a 6.62. I missed the tree a little (0.043) and my opponent had a much better light (0.028). By dialing soft I was able to get out in front and control the race.


At the finish I had to decide to either take the stripe, or give it to my opponent. Knowing I was holding some, I had to slow down, and since he was close I decided to take the stripe…Granted, I got lucky on this one….I like to take 0.01-0.001 stripe, and I accidentally took 0.0002 (less than ½ an inch) and won.


On the flip side, if my opponent had been really close to me before I slowed to lose the numbers I was holding, I would have tapped the brake to get in behind him and let him have the stripe…..because that would indicate that he was on a breakout pass (or it would indicate that I REALLY missed the tree)...either way, let him eat the stripe.


Clear as mud…..good…..

View attachment 1715372425
Click to expand...
And them 5 sentences have to be thought about, evaluated and A Decision Made............In the time you can blink your eyes!!!!
 
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