Dana 60

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TheGrateRonzini

TheGrateRonzini

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anyone have a starting point for the side to side shims? I took numbers off of the old ones, but still have no backlash. As it sits, pinion is too high, I took out the slinger and set the pinion race at .050. Haven’t tried it yet in the housing. Wanted to see how off I was on what was in there. That’s what i started with and was way high and close. I took .005 out from ring side and added .005 to bare side. Spool with 35 spline. 4:10 gears. Just wanted starting point. I had the FSM on old phone, but now I can only find front and 44 spicer FSM.
Thanks
 
How are you installing the side carrier shims? Do you have a case spreader? That's the only way to get a Dana 60 and many others correct.
 
This one has good info also.
If you have the money buy a case spreader but you don't need one. You can push the carrier put of the housing by holding it from turning. Then turn the pinion yoke. It will back it out of the housing.

 
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Yes, you do need a case spreader if you ever want to get the preload right. It will never be correct without one. That's a corner I refuse to cut. I've done it before and it cost me.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Totally disagree on needing a case spreader but if you need it that's ok with me.
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How do you get the preload correct? Beat the shims in with a hammer? Most all salisbury style rear axles require a spreader to do it correctly. Just because you "can do it without one" doesn't make it correct.
 
I built the Dana 60 in my 66 Dart without a spreader and it turned out great. Preload was spot on and it works perfectly.
 
mopowers said:
I built the Dana 60 in my 66 Dart without a spreader and it turned out great. Preload was spot on and it works perfectly.
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Lots of people do. But I am not going to recommend it when that's not the proper way to get the job done. You can get a case spreader for well under 100 bucks or possibly even borrow or rent one. Rear ends are not cheap and I am not going to recommend any way but the correct way. That's just how I do it. If you or others have had good luck otherwise, that's great.
 
More dana housings have been ruined by a case spreader, over spreading a housing than have been hurt by not using one.
 
TheGrateRonzini said:
anyone have a starting point for the side to side shims? I took numbers off of the old ones, but still have no backlash. As it sits, pinion is too high, I took out the slinger and set the pinion race at .050. Haven’t tried it yet in the housing. Wanted to see how off I was on what was in there. That’s what i started with and was way high and close. I took .005 out from ring side and added .005 to bare side. Spool with 35 spline. 4:10 gears. Just wanted starting point. I had the FSM on old phone, but now I can only find front and 44 spicer FSM.
Thanks
Click to expand...

This is how I established the carrier shim packs on mine - put the carrier/spool in without a pinion gear or carrier shims and move it side to side. Measure that movement with a dial indicator. Then do the same thing with the pinion gear in place. That will tell you approximately how much of the total shim pack goes on each side. Of course you have to account for backlash and add additional shims (I believe it was around .010") to each side for bearing preload.

There are plenty of good installation videos on youtube and articles available online.

If you end up using a case spreader, be very careful not to over-spread it.
 
I haven’t needed a case spreader. I can make one for sure. I know it can’t be spread more than .015 I use a rag between the ring and pinion to dislodge the carrier. Then, a few whacks on a 2x4 under the ring bolts and the inside of the spool and it’s out. I found that the only trouble I have reinstalling it is if the bearing cups are cocked. But that isn’t my question. Like I said, I’m trying to find where the FSM starts. I made some tester bearings and cups to make it easier to dial it in. I still haven’t checked the newest combo of shims, it was getting late and I was tired
 
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