Is this common problem?
Does anyone else's clutch peddle come to rest just slightly past the brake peddle?
this part is normal
As already asked; is the factory anti-rattle spring, also called fork-return, in place ?
Is your downrod from the pedal assembly rubbing on the edge of the big oval hole in the firewall?
Remove the downrod from the Z-bar. Now gently push the pedal down about 2 inches and then let it back up to the stopper. Does it still stick? Then fix the pedal assembly. If you side step the clutch at 1 to 2 inches travel, that pedal, with the overcenter spring installed should slam into the stopper with some pretty wicked force.
But if it works smooth as butter now, then the pedal assembly is Ok, move on to the Z-bar. That bar, with both the downrod and the forkrod removed, should move smooth as silk on the unlubed nylon bushings. The bar should be about parallel to the road and about at 90* to the centerline of the car AND the outboard end should be captured by a clip so that the assembly cannot move laterally. The frame bracket must be welded to the apron in such a manner that the Bar can only rotate on the bushings and move in no other direction.
Finally, the TO bearing has to be sliding back and forth with just a tiny amount of force. If you assembled it with common thick gun-grease then you will have to wipe thatchit out of there as best as you can.
I assume the following;
that the disc and pressure plate are a matched set from a reputable source, and that you installed the disc with the side marked "flywheel side", next to the flywheel, and that you did not bend it by hanging the trans on it during the install.
And that your Z-bar is correct for the application, and that the TO fork is the correct length for the bellhouse.
Ok, now with all the players properly functioning, it's time to re-install the rods,secured by the proper retaining clips, and to make sure nothing rubs on stuff it's not supposed to rub on.
If it still hangs up; no this is not normal, but IDK what's causing it.
unless maybe, you wrongly installed the parts on the fork rod and it is somehow hanging up. Look in the picture; there are not two nuts on that rod for a reason. There is just one jam nut. You might be able to fit two on the engine side and jam them together, but do not put one on each side of the insulator/swivel ....... unless you space it away from the insulator with a thin-walled tube-spacer. This works really slick with my TTIs. But I installed a common nut on the engine side so I can adjust it with hot headers. And after I lost the nut off the end, I drilled the rod and installed a hairpin in the hole. And after I lost the hairpin, I installed a common cotterpin. lol. It's all good now.
TIPS
This stuff all gets pretty hot with headers sitting right there. You gotta make sure nothing actually runs against the header especially the forkrod, cuz the nut wont stay tight, that's why there is a jamnut on it.
If anything moves in any way it's not supposed to, then your adjustment will change.
There is a difference between a 340/383 pedal assembly and a regular assembly. The pedal ratio is greater on the 340/383 set to compensate for the different clutchs.
6cylinder Z-bars are different from V8s
That's all I can remember
Happy HotRodding
