could the intake be holding my low end down?

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burrpenick

burrpenick

'69 Barracuda
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Thought I had a dual plane, but turns out its an Edlebrock Torker II 340 single. This 360 w/3.55 SG seems a little sluggish off the line, could this single plane intake be the cause? The cam is not wild and its running on a built 904 w/cop car converter. The engine is fresh, and I dont know IF the stock 360 pistons were replaced.
 
340 torker's are good intakes, but they start to make power above 2500 rpms. Need a good converter with a automatic to get the most from a torker. You'd be better with a dual plane, like a RPM or the such for your combo.
 
are you running big tires?
Even a lo comp. 360 should boil the tires with your set up.
 
do a compression test;
130psi will have a soft bottom,especially with a stock TC
140 less soft, wakes up later in the rpm scale, still works with a 2500 to 2800TC
150 now yer getting somewhere, plenty of torque at stall.
160; now yer risking detonation, have to run premium, and usually, the 360 will be a ripper.
And make sure your timing curve is decent.

I've run 3 intakes on my 367 and altho I currently run the AG, none of them were slugs....... but I run around 180 psi, what a ripper of an SBM.
edit:(aluminum heads)
 
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One of the Torkers is a doorstop. I caint ever remember if it's the original or the Torker II. @crackedback will know.
 
You can compensate a little with carb tuning (squirters & acc. pump volume), ignition advance curve and perhaps a 4-hole spacer, but a good dual plane would be better.
 
have you dialed in your timing yet
do that and post compression before jumping manifolds
what car, gear, tire, etc
still, in the end a dual plane will be better if all the rest is conservative
but tor II should be able to be made to work
 
First off, run the compression test as suggested to see what you have in there for pistons. With 10.3 SCR (160 psi cranking compression), and a small torque cam, original Torker, and 1-7/8 headers, my 351C had no lack of bottom end torque.

What cam DO you have, OP, and was it timed properly?
 
nm9stheham said:
First off, run the compression test as suggested to see what you have in there for pistons. With 10.3 SCR (160 psi cranking compression), and a small torque cam, original Torker, and 1-7/8 headers, my 351C had no lack of bottom end torque.

What cam DO you have, OP, and was it timed properly?
Click to expand...

L
 
Thanks for ALL the tips, ideas, and questions. Its a Duster w/ what I was told is a 340 manual transmission cam. Not sure on the tuning, but the seller did know his stuff. He said the bores checked out so he just installed new rings- dont know about the pistons, will do a comp test to check that compression. Converter was taken from a cop car set up, no specs on that or the cam. I"m thinking that a dual plane intake would definitely help an old and slow guy like me- and thats not a terrible job or expensive either...................
 
3.55’s and what size tire?!?!

Not what I would call and ideal combo myself. Even with stock sized tires.

First order is what Locomotion & Wyrmrider were getting at. Dialing in the distributor timing, then the carb tune. Getting a good and high vacuum reading should be easy enough with that OEM cam. After that, Locomotion’s idea of a 4 hole spacer is a good idea. They help deliver a little more torque.
 
Yea but you could still have the same outcome if you just change the intake, if the tuning is not right.
 
rumblefish360 said:
3.55’s and what size tire?!?!

245/60/15 in rear 215/70/14 front

Not what I would call and ideal combo myself. Even with stock sized tires.

First order is what Locomotion & Wyrmrider were getting at. Dialing in the distributor timing, then the carb tune. Getting a good and high vacuum reading should be easy enough with that OEM cam. After that, Locomotion’s idea of a 4 hole spacer is a good idea. They help deliver a little more torque.
Click to expand...
 
Although the low end of the motor is under its own gravitational effects, yes your intake can be considered to be holding your low end down. The motor mounts are technically pushing back up on the low end, and the low end is pushing back up on the intake.
 
jos51700 said:
Although the low end of the motor is under its own gravitational effects, yes your intake can be considered to be holding your low end down. The motor mounts are technically pushing back up on the low end, and the low end is pushing back up on the intake.
Click to expand...

I know about gravity, I used to ride dirt bikes, KTM300 and gravity was always a problem.
 
brian6pac said:
I know about gravity, I used to ride dirt bikes, KTM300 and gravity was always a problem.
Click to expand...

Your first mistake is believing in gravity. Morpheus taught me that gravity is a myth perpetuated by The Man, and doesn't affect you if you don't believe in it.
 
Congrats, you have successfully quoted me!

I see no reply above or below the quote.
 
compression test will help us
U can start with the tuning ideas
That 68 only 4 speed cam has lots of duration and little lift- so it likes compression and revs (if that is what the cam is)
so compression(dynamic compression, when the intake closes) can make a big difference
but you should be able to make it work
 
Timing light first. Get it so it has about 14-16 initial and 34-36 total is my guess if it has a 340 4 spd cam in it. Depending on the distributor, it may need some mechanical advance adjustment.

If the idle/initial timing is low, the engine will be sluggish off idle.
 
AJ/FormS said:
do a compression test;
130psi will have a soft bottom,especially with a stock TC
140 less soft, wakes up later in the rpm scale, still works with a 2500 to 2800TC
150 now yer getting somewhere, plenty of torque at stall.
160; now yer risking detonation, have to run premium, and usually, the 360 will be a ripper.
And make sure your timing curve is decent.

I've run 3 intakes on my 367 and altho I currently run the AG, none of them were slugs....... but I run around 180 psi, what a ripper of an SBM.
Click to expand...

I'm currently at 200 psi on premium and no indication of detonation.
 
crackedback said:
Torker II is good

Original Torker 340, smelter material.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I can never remember that. I got it now though. The original was the POS so they gave it another try. THAT I can remember. LMAO
 
Changing the intake will not solve your problem.Truth be known the stock intake was fine.
When Eddy made the Torker II the original Torker lost ground..then the rpm..then the air gap and the original Torker became a door stop! As 318 will run says both Torkers are good intakes and probably the best bargains out there right now.
 
Hysteric said:
I'm currently at 200 psi on premium and no indication of detonation.
Click to expand...

Addendum for street use;
170psi, now we are into aluminum heads, and things are heating up
180 is 87E10 friendly to save you several thousand dollars over the life of the engine, and incredible throttle-response, great fuel mileage is also possible.
190 is AJ approved,for best pumpgas, and makes a tire-eating monster. It may run on 89
200 is the Mitch-approved, probable limit for 91pumpgas. I haven't been there, cuz honestly with a manual trans,IMO; there is no way to tame it with street gears; 185 is tough enough, and cannot, IMO, be done properly with just a dizzy. If I were to try it, I would want a stand-alone timing computer.
There are only a handful of FABO fellows who responded to a question I posed a year or two ago, that dare to run this high, and reported success.
 
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