My '75 Scamp 383 Build

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I would tap it good with a 3/4 pipe tap put lots of RTV on the threads and install the pipe plug. Let it set up and cure good and it'll never leak. Also, 2500 for polishing a crank? I use 400 grit emery cloth and Deep Creep.

Lastly, are you actually gonna DO this project? We're growin old here. LOL
 
Lastly, are you actually gonna DO this project? We're growin old here. LOL

LOL! Yeah, slow and steady over here... Starrett inside Mic on the way via UPS. I have to get a better measurement of the bores. Too many measurements already that are right at the edge of tolerance OR .0005 beyond. Low buck build, trying to avoid machine shop.
 
LOL! Yeah, slow and steady over here... Starrett inside Mic on the way via UPS. I have to get a better measurement of the bores. Too many measurements already that are right at the edge of tolerance OR .0005 beyond. Low buck build, trying to avoid machine shop.

IMO, you can run outside spec on the bore a bit, as long as the ring gaps are right. In other words, you may use file fit. Not the optimum, and may not last as long as a new bore, but will save money and last a reasonable amount of time. The crankshaft is where I will absolutely NOT cut corners, no ands, ifs or buts. That's just me.
 
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Thanks for all the feedback fellas!
The goal is to install this engine in my 75 Scamp. I want a cruiser, not a drag racer. Currently, she has a /6 and I want much more power. More power = 250 HP and up. A trip to the drag strip once in a blue moon should yield 14.40's - I would be very happy.

I'm using Schumaker mounts, 68/69 factory hp exhaust manifolds (NO HEADERS), Column shift,
The car already has a factory A Body 8.75 with 3.23 gears I installed a couple years ago with this build in mind. I also have a 727 out of a '68 Imperial sitting on the shelf. I have a B-body length drive shaft which I will have shortened and balanced.
I would think 14s should be easily obtainable with what you have planned. A bone stock 383 with a 4bbl was a powerful engine for b body's! Stuff one in a a body... hold on!
 
If I remember correctly Dick Landy did a test for car and driver magazine (maybe ? May have been another magazine back in the day) but he took a bone stock 383 road runner and with some simple weekend bolt ons (headers, racing slicks, carb tune etc) he was running 13s in a stock roadrunner.
Ok so I went back a looked I'm my book and I was way off!! First it was ronnie Sox not landy and it was a 440 roadrunner not a 383 sorry for the bad info I'm gonna remove that post.
 
I measured the cylinders with the Starrett 124 I just got today. Results: All cylinders are out of tolerance.
Most by .0005, but #1 is a big boy (.0035)

Chrysler says: (4.2495 - 4.2515)

Mine: #1 4.255 #2 4.5215
#3 4.252 #4 4.252
#5 4.252 #6 4.252
#7 4.252 #8 4.2525

I am totally leaning toward re-ring, bearings, etc. and Rock 'N Roll! After all, the bores aren't THAT far out, the crankshaft is actually within factory tolerances, and this IS a budget build and kind of a "how will it run" experiment.
However, it troubles me that the bores are over...
What do you guys think? Have any of you bolted together and ran in a similar situation?
 
I've run a budget engine that had bores that were slightly out of spec. It ran fine for my high school ride with a 318, though it's obviously not ideal. That big one may have some piston slap issues. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in. Just be prepared for the complete rebuild/overbore/new pistons comments. Everyone around here tends to like spending other folks' money.
 
#1 cylinder is actually 4.2535" measured 3" below the deck. My 4.255" measurement came at 1" below deck.
I also checked the ring gap: .028" with my new rings.
Just for laughs, I checked the ring gap using a worn used ring and came up with .035" - and it was a running engine.
 
I'd hone it and run it. I've never been skeered. Get the crank right though.
 
Here's a shot of the crankshaft, if anyone is looking at this thread, LOL.
I wonder what the yellow paint from the factory means?
383 crankshaft finished.JPG
 
That's one of them infamous Yellowshaft cranks...

NOT. Sorry just kiddin' I have no clue.
Nice build, you'll eventually get there!
 
1968 Factory Service manual (4.2495" - 4.2515")
Number Top Bottom
#1 4.252 4.246
#2 4.252 4.247
#3 4.255 4.250
#4 4.252 4.247
#5 4.252 4.250
#6 4.251 4.247
#7 4.252 4.2515
#8 4.252 4.248
* Pistons 1,5,7,and 6 have a number (casting?) 2863116 inside piston.

*Pistons 2,3,4, and 8 have number 2863115

I read in my 1968 parts book that there were .005" over pistons and standard size. (in addition to .020 and .040 over pistons available.
Do I have some cylinders which were .005" over from the assembly line? The part numbers in my book are 3004524 and 3004525 (.005 O/S).
Can anyone help out with a 1969 Parts book?
This is a 9-17-68 casting block for a 1969 Charger 383 2Bbl.

Some of the performance articles of the period stated that left and right bank OEM pistons were different.
The piston pin was off-set slightly to reduce slap on cold starts, this may account for the different casting numbers you've noted. The performance trick was to swap the pistons to the opposite bank. This was said to slightly reduce friction, thereby increasing power. I don't believe any aftermarket pistons are off-set in this manner.
As far as boring the block, forget it! I mean is this a daily driver that you're expecting 100k mile plus service from?
I hope you and I live long enough to wear this engine out! I do agree that tru-ing the block decks is a good move if you've got the bucks. Just carefully put it together and go have fun!!
 
Ask me how I found RustyRatRod's cam bearing installation thread over on FBBO....
Upon close inspection, I need to also change the cam bearings. This one is TOAST.
toasted cam bearing.JPG
 
If only for posterity...
Hello people! I purchased a Lisle #18000, camshaft bearing removal/install tool. Thanks to Rob for posting the great step by step cam bearing installation back a few years ago on FBBO!
Removing my old ones from the block was harder than installing the new ones. All oil holes line up perfectly but #3 is 75% centered. I didn't think that would warrant removal and reinstall, not to mention the block is on the engine stand.
Old cam bearings:
old camshaft bearings.JPG

...and the new ones installed:
new camshaft bearings 1.JPG
new camshaft bearings 2.JPG
new camshaft bearings 4.JPG
new camshaft bearings 5.JPG

Easy-Peasy!
 
're the pistons, the old trick was to have the piston skirts knurled so they were a bit fatter and took up the slack in the bore.
Neil.

It works too . I did that to a set of cast hemi pistons once, worked very well !
 
Well, since last update, I've managed to get the Comp Cams XE262H cam installed - and discovered how Tight it felt when turned. Here's the story Camshaft Install - how tight is too tight?

I followed some great Old School method of scraping/shaving the bearings for smoother camshaft turning. Using my old Camshaft...
Old Camshaft Tool.JPG

This worked VERY well.
Rear Main Seal sticky on FBBO was very helpful. I was directed there after creating This thread over there.
SCE Gasket rear main seal
I'm meeting one of my goals at least - I'm learning a whole lot!

Camshaft and Crankshaft are in!
Crankshaft Installed 2.JPG

And just today 9/1/19, I discovered that the dowel on the Cam needed a brass punch!
Cam Sprocket and Dowel.JPG

Not easy to tell, but the dowel prevented the cam bolt and washer to make full contact.
Solved and help was provided once again over on FBBO.
Comp Cams dowel pin

Slow and steady progress, with a learning curve! :thankyou:
 
It's been about 6 weeks since I updated this thread.
Lots of progress has been made, and lessons learned!
I scored a set of 8 of these NOS Con Rod Bearings.
New Rod Bearing .JPG

These still have the oil notch that most folks agree are not necessary. I still wanted 'em present.
Amazingly, this Lisle ring compressor is made in USA!
Ring Compressor Tool.JPG

...and it was very useful getting the pistons installed.

Below; New rings on the piston...
piston rings installed 1.JPG

The rods and pistons in the block, and I noticed the factory stamped cylinder number on the rod and rod cap surface.
Connecting rod little number stamp.JPG

I installed the fuel pump rod and the pump. Put on the oil pump and drive gear, found TDC and installed distributor to hold the drive gear.
I picked up a Mopar Performance windage tray and set out to install the oil pan + tray on the engine. I tried the 4 layer RTV and two gasket method. HUGE FAIL.
Oil pan gasket mess 2.JPG

Way too much Permatex Ultra Black. Kinda tough when you use a "thin" layer on the block, each side of the windage tray with a gasket on each side, and a layer on the oil pan.
I removed this mess pictured above and used the following method.
Mask the windage tray other than the gasket mating surface. Spray Loctite Hi Tack on each side of tray, stick gasket on each side. Let that setup and mate real well on the bench with the weight of the oil pan keeping everything making good contact. Put a small bead of Ultra Black about 1/8" on the block surface and on the oil pan, lay the windage tray and gasket sandwich on the block and place oil pan over top. I very gingerly tightened the pan bolts, just a little at a time going around the whole pan. I did NOT TORQUE to FSM specs. (It blew out my gasket last time).
Done! It looks great and I feel confident it will seal. Eliminating TWO coats of RTV was key! Use Loctite Hi Tack aerosol.
That's all for now, I hope you enjoy!
 
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Subscribed. I can’t wait to see the end result. The 74-76 Scamps and Darts were always my favorite body styles. I’ve also noticed a lot of useful links and information that has been posted to keep in mind for my build. Lastly, where in Pittsburgh are you from? I’m in Pittsburgh as well, it’s nice to see someone else here from the three rivers!
 
Subscribed. I can’t wait to see the end result. The 74-76 Scamps and Darts were always my favorite body styles. I’ve also noticed a lot of useful links and information that has been posted to keep in mind for my build. Lastly, where in Pittsburgh are you from? I’m in Pittsburgh as well, it’s nice to see someone else here from the three rivers!
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There's more of us than you'd think.
Me in Finleyville, Pete on the next street, Chuck in Bridgeville, a couple guys in Bethel Park.......
 
Subscribed. I can’t wait to see the end result. The 74-76 Scamps and Darts were always my favorite body styles. I’ve also noticed a lot of useful links and information that has been posted to keep in mind for my build. Lastly, where in Pittsburgh are you from? I’m in Pittsburgh as well, it’s nice to see someone else here from the three rivers!
Hey there, I just saw this. My "Alert" settings must be outta whack. I'm in Swissvale, how about you?
 
WHAT?!?!?!?! I thought this was gatherin dust. Way to go man!
 
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