Ritter disaster

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My friend just rec’d his MR1 Pontiac block.

Well see how much it costs to make it usable.

None of the aftermarket blocks I’ve used needed anywhere near $3000 worth of machining to make them usable.

I wonder what a “ready to assemble” Dart SHP block would cost from Reher-Morrison.

To put it in perspective......
You can buy a 434” sbc shortblock built with a Dart Little M block, Scat crank and rods, Wiseco pistons, total seal rings, clevite bearings, assembled....... for $5300 from Shafiroff.
 
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PRH said:
My friend just rec’d his MR1 Pontiac block.

Well see how much it costs to make it usable.

None of the aftermarket blocks I’ve used needed anywhere near $3000 worth of machining to make them usable.

I wonder what a “ready to assemble” Dart SHP block would cost from Reher-Morrison.

To put it in perspective......
You can buy a 434” sbc shortblock built with a Dart Little M block, Scat crank and rods, Wiseco pistons, total seal rings, clevite bearings, assembled....... for $5300 from Shafiroff.
Click to expand...

Did you see the receipt that Matt posted. I didn't see anything there out of the normal of what I've seen and done, other than what I mentioned.

Can you keep us updated on the Pontiac. Only had one of those in 2007ish and it needed work. It's not the blocks fault. It's just when you mix and match parts it's what happens.

The R-M deal is interesting. As I'm sure you would, I'd check everything before putting it together, but since they are supplying the parts you may not have to do much. You'd hope.
 
Yup, down the block from me.
PRH said:
My friend just rec’d his MR1 Pontiac block.

Well see how much it costs to make it usable.

None of the aftermarket blocks I’ve used needed anywhere near $3000 worth of machining to make them usable.

I wonder what a “ready to assemble” Dart SHP block would cost from Reher-Morrison.

To put it in perspective......
You can buy a 434” sbc shortblock built with a Dart Little M block, Scat crank and rods, Wiseco pistons, total seal rings, clevite bearings, assembled....... for $5300 from Shafiroff.
Click to expand...
 
BUILT MY RITTER BLOCK A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO. IT REQUIRED LOTS AND LOTS OF WORK. ONE THING I FOUND OUT WAS THE BLOCK NEEDS TO BE VENTED OR IT COULD RUN DRY OF OIL.
20160602_122406.jpg
 
Yes, the bottom of of the block is sealed from the top part, with only small holes in between , the pressure that passes the rings and the bottom part gains more pressure than the top,, then oil will not go down to the pump.
Somehow you have equal or more pressure on the top part so the oil can travel thru the small drain back holes.

Mine has made good power so far with no problems.
 
Jeremy said:
Yes, the bottom of of the block is sealed from the top part, with only small holes in between , the pressure that passes the rings and the bottom part gains more pressure than the top,, then oil will not go down to the pump.
Somehow you have equal or more pressure on the top part so the oil can travel thru the small drain back holes.

Mine has made good power so far with no problems.
Click to expand...

Yes i milled 1/2" slots under each top gap the HV pump empties the sump pretty fast there is no drain back without the openings
 
Is it possible to get a picture of this?
 
Not at this time, it's together in the car at this time.
I drilled a large hole behind the trimming chain into the lifter valley. A friend drilled large holes under the cam. I didn't want to this because of oil drain on crank but both will let pressure equalize.
 
Here's the holes I drilled on mine, if you look through the 4th roller bearing you can see the 1/2" hole, theres one in between all of them. Might need to zoom in a bit, sorry I thought I had a better picture of mine. Hope this helps

20180429_104647.jpg
 
Yes, you've fixed that problem, just hate putting oil on the crank assy.. It will cost a few horsepower. Looks good, I think even with all the Ritter problems it's worth it in the long run.
Nice job.
 
Thanks, I'm okay with a few hp it's a boosted application. These blocks really do have great potential, and require no more work then another block. Almost ready to finally fire mine up minus the turbos for a bit then I'll drain the oil and install the turbos and put in some really good oil.
 
Should be great for your project. I had a pro stock engine builder tell me there as strong as any pro stock block. They are really super strong.
 
Matts440 said:
Here's the holes I drilled on mine, if you look through the 4th roller bearing you can see the 1/2" hole, theres one in between all of them. Might need to zoom in a bit, sorry I thought I had a better picture of mine. Hope this helps

View attachment 1715365122
Click to expand...
Thanks. I could see it in the I-phone after double tapping the image to enlarge it. Can I impose for the front of the engine shot for some of that bright eye candy that’s a bit hidden?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Thanks. I could see it in the I-phone after double tapping the image to enlarge it. Can I impose for the front of the engine shot for some of that bright eye candy that’s a bit hidden?
Click to expand...

Sorry not a better picture, thought I had one with the intake off just straight on of the gear drive but not sure what happened to it.

20181220_113437.jpg


20181206_131705.jpg
 
AUSA66 said:
What cam & lifters did you use whas it babbit bearing 1 of the other many problems was the rear cam bearing hole was bored for a big block bearing had to sleeve down to SB
Back on track had another go at it bored the 2 stripped holes down & retapped heads torqued up OK
What head bolt kit did you use ARP has a kit marked R3/Ritter Edelbrock heads all the bolts are 1/2" instead od 1/2" & 3/8 for the inner & outer the the nuts were the large 12 Point that will not fit into the head recess looks like a guess

View attachment 1715358948 View attachment 1715358949
Click to expand...
What rocker covers are those? I assume custom made by you Aussie guys? ;)
 
It's very common for any aftermarket block to need to be decked, line honed, maybe have the cam tunnel fixed, deburred, lifter bores corrected and/or sleeved. Even the allmighty Chevy blocks.... very little plug and play in performance parts.


Products | Carl Hinkson
 
I agree that most things in hot rodding have to be modded one way or another. We are all aware of that. But when you fork out this much money, it should have the bare necessities such as oil drain back. That's just stupid.
 
PRH said:
My friend just rec’d his MR1 Pontiac block.

Well see how much it costs to make it usable.

None of the aftermarket blocks I’ve used needed anywhere near $3000 worth of machining to make them usable.

I wonder what a “ready to assemble” Dart SHP block would cost from Reher-Morrison.

To put it in perspective......
You can buy a 434” sbc shortblock built with a Dart Little M block, Scat crank and rods, Wiseco pistons, total seal rings, clevite bearings, assembled....... for $5300 from Shafiroff.
Click to expand...

You can buy one cheaper "I think' from Skip White automotive in Kingsbury Tenn !
 
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