Order of assembly? From a bare shell

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4spdragtop

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Hi all, I've decided to start assembly on 69 cuda. It's a bare shell, rear end is out.
The plan is to coat inside frame rails with cavity wax coating by Proform. Also apply Proform paintable undercoat.
I will prep surfaces accordingly. I'm starting at the rear and move forward. There are no body plugs, brake lines or cables or fuel lines. Just a shell.
Before I apply either of the Proform products should there be anything at all installed? Like fuel lines or brake lines body plugs? I have my 8 3/4, leaf springs front leaf brackets all ready to install once I get that area prepped and coated.
Any other tips and advice is appreciated.
No luxury of a hoist either, doing this in a shelter outside.
Thanks
Steve
 
Undercoating is thick and tends to be thick. I would think that should be the last thing to do after fuel line clips and brake lines are in and most all the other pieces like leaf spring hangers. Front fender guards. If you spray it first and you get it on any mounting surfaces, it's going to be a ***** removing that stuff.
 
Thanks Roy, I will remove the surface rust and spot prime those areas. I'm going to have to unpack parts that I've blasted and prepped to get a visual of what needs to go on prior to undercoat.
I would think the cavity wax could be done 1st for the frame rails and torque boxes etc.
Thanks!
Undercoating is thick and tends to be thick. I would think that should be the last thing to do after fuel line clips and brake lines are in and most all the other pieces like leaf spring hangers. Front fender guards. If you spray it first and you get it on any mounting surfaces, it's going to be a ***** removing that stuff.
 
Install all under body fasteners and mask them. Sucks scraping paint out of threaded holes.

However if you run a tap down the holes, it will clean up the threads and also remove the wax...

I would recommend tapping all holes before putting the bolts in so the threads are good and the bolts can get proper clamp load vs wasting the torque fighting deformed threads and dirt and grime in the threads...

Tapping the holes should be done before putting the bolts in...

Or tap the holes first and then put the bolts in them to keep the wax and undercoat out....
 
What I do to a bare shell that has been cleaned is try to coat everything that you cannot get to with a brush or a spray gun. The cheapest product is Black rust-o-lium . I tape all the weep holes and plug hole in the rear quarters one at a time. Fill the quarter with rust-o-lium paint.

After it is full and you splashed some with a brush up into the outer wheel house. Open the front weep hole or plug and drain it back into the container. then move to the other side.

Through the rear door panel hole in the interior fill the rocker area to get it between the quarter and rocker after taping the weep holes shut. If you have enough paint pour it full and drain it back into the container. You want to coat where the water travels to the weep holes to slow/stop the rust. I have a perfect body here That I intend to coat the rails inside with a wand and a slutz gun. This is still done on new Mack turnpike trucks after the plow and beds are installed. It is a mandatory procedure when built and required by contract. My son builds these trucks as a day job.

Here are picture of the rust free brown Duster ex-drag car I am putting back together. It was rust free I did not strip the under carriage but I did fill the quarters and coat the rusty surface with chassis saver. Due to it being very expensive I used paint to pour in the quarters and rockers. They sell 5 gal. containers of chassis paint which is cheap and the same as rust-o-lium . "Chassis Saver" is a different product, It is the newer POR15 product and is much better than POR15. I used them both.

Two days later and it was still dripping on the floor as seen in the last pictures.

There is nothing worse than rust bubbles coming through a fresh paint job where there was no rust to be seen at the time.

Start there.

I am also undercoating the car to make it look cleaner underneath. All new stainless lines were installed before undercoat but it is not necessary. the fasteners are all pushed through holes or bolted in place except for one on the passenger side which gets knocked in between the floor and the inner rocker face. I do not undercoat between the front rails.

Make sure you covered all the holes before pouring the paint or you need some family fingers to dam them up.

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Thanks guys, I finally got tired of body shop run around, so this has turned into more of a DIY than initially planned or thought.
I figured the bottom side of car is where I would start. More involved than initially thought.
Good points with bolts, taps and Rustoleum paint.
Thanks guys!
Install all under body fasteners and mask them. Sucks scraping paint out of threaded holes.

However if you run a tap down the holes, it will clean up the threads and also remove the wax...

I would recommend tapping all holes before putting the bolts in so the threads are good and the bolts can get proper clamp load vs wasting the torque fighting deformed threads and dirt and grime in the threads...

Tapping the holes should be done before putting the bolts in...

Or tap the holes first and then put the bolts in them to keep the wax and undercoat out....

What I do to a bare shell that has been cleaned is try to coat everything that you cannot get to with a brush or a spray gun. The cheapest product is Black rust-o-lium . I tape all the weep holes and plug hole in the rear quarters one at a time. Fill the quarter with rust-o-lium paint.

After it is full and you splashed some with a brush up into the outer wheel house. Open the front weep hole or plug and drain it back into the container. then move to the other side.

Through the rear door panel hole in the interior fill the rocker area to get it between the quarter and rocker after taping the weep holes shut. If you have enough paint pour it full and drain it back into the container. You want to coat where the water travels to the weep holes to slow/stop the rust. I have a perfect body here That I intend to coat the rails inside with a wand and a slutz gun. This is still done on new Mack turnpike trucks after the plow and beds are installed. It is a mandatory procedure when built and required by contract. My son builds these trucks as a day job.

Here are picture of the rust free brown Duster ex-drag car I am putting back together. It was rust free I did not strip the under carriage but I did fill the quarters and coat the rusty surface with chassis saver. Due to it being very expensive I used paint to pour in the quarters and rockers. They sell 5 gal. containers of chassis paint which is cheap and the same as rust-o-lium . "Chassis Saver" is a different product, It is the newer POR15 product and is much better than POR15. I used them both.

Two days later and it was still dripping on the floor as seen in the last pictures.

There is nothing worse than rust bubbles coming through a fresh paint job where there was no rust to be seen at the time.

Start there.

I am also undercoating the car to make it look cleaner underneath. All new stainless lines were installed before undercoat but it is not necessary. the fasteners are all pushed through holes or bolted in place except for one on the passenger side which gets knocked in between the floor and the inner rocker face. I do not undercoat between the front rails.

Make sure you covered all the holes before pouring the paint or you need some family fingers to dam them up.

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Great idea on the tape it off, pour it in and dump it out. Factory used to submerge these cars in a 3 stage coating if I remember correctly. these cars were dipped after the shells were welded together for rust preventative measures. Rustoleum is pretty bad assed ****. I will prob use some of that PPG 512x310 light gray epoxy primer coating I have to do that. It's tough as nails, and free to me when exp. date comes up. Cant use on aircraft after that. LoL
 
Normally the suspension, drivetrain, fuel, and, brake lines and everything was installed minus the wheels after the shell was primered and painted as a bare shell. The asphalt based undercoating was sprayed in the wheel wells after everything was installed.

I say this because having dissassembled a bunch of these cars I find the areas where the rear spring mounting brackets attach to the body, the spring mount brackets have undercoat overspray on them, but theres nothing underneath them where they bolt to the body. On the body side where the mounts attach all I ever find is primered steel with paint overspray on the body side where they mount, also you will see some minor undercoat overspray on the brake and fuel lines from the rear wheel house area at the framerails on both sides. Ditto w the K frame.

The factory never undecorated the whole car. They only shot the front and rear wheelhouses as a sound deadened, a cushion from pebbles being flung up at the front fenders from inside the wheel well to prevent small outward protruding dents in the front fenders, as well as to slow down the rust demons from getting in the seams.
 
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What I do to a bare shell that has been cleaned is try to coat everything that you cannot get to with a brush or a spray gun. The cheapest product is Black rust-o-lium . I tape all the weep holes and plug hole in the rear quarters one at a time. Fill the quarter with rust-o-lium paint.

After it is full and you splashed some with a brush up into the outer wheel house. Open the front weep hole or plug and drain it back into the container. then move to the other side.

Through the rear door panel hole in the interior fill the rocker area to get it between the quarter and rocker after taping the weep holes shut. If you have enough paint pour it full and drain it back into the container. You want to coat where the water travels to the weep holes to slow/stop the rust. I have a perfect body here That I intend to coat the rails inside with a wand and a slutz gun. This is still done on new Mack turnpike trucks after the plow and beds are installed. It is a mandatory procedure when built and required by contract. My son builds these trucks as a day job.

Here are picture of the rust free brown Duster ex-drag car I am putting back together. It was rust free I did not strip the under carriage but I did fill the quarters and coat the rusty surface with chassis saver. Due to it being very expensive I used paint to pour in the quarters and rockers. They sell 5 gal. containers of chassis paint which is cheap and the same as rust-o-lium . "Chassis Saver" is a different product, It is the newer POR15 product and is much better than POR15. I used them both.

Two days later and it was still dripping on the floor as seen in the last pictures.

There is nothing worse than rust bubbles coming through a fresh paint job where there was no rust to be seen at the time.

Start there.

I am also undercoating the car to make it look cleaner underneath. All new stainless lines were installed before undercoat but it is not necessary. the fasteners are all pushed through holes or bolted in place except for one on the passenger side which gets knocked in between the floor and the inner rocker face. I do not undercoat between the front rails.

Make sure you covered all the holes before pouring the paint or you need some family fingers to dam them up.

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Like how you did that one OldManMopar

Did the 67 here about the same, paint the whole undercaridge with Acrylic Enamel with the Hardener, then use the same in the Body Shutz Gun and soak down inside the quarters, over wheel wheels, inside doors, inside rockers, inside box section. Soak it down good and let it run out on to the masking paper on the floor.

Want things to last a long time with no paint job failures in the future . . .

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Swapped that 7 1/4 for an 8 3/4 now too.

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Sealed up Good . . .
 
So Rustoleum is like hens teeth up here for whatever reason. Their undercoat is discontinued. I looked into different paints and Armor Coat has great reviews, reasonably priced and requires no primer.
I'm hoping to be able to topcoat it with Proform undercoat. Auto supply store called and the Proform cavity wax is in.
Hopefully tackle it this weekend.
Thanks for suggestions n advice guys.
 
I use 1 gallon cans of black Rustolium paint from Lowes. Then under coat it with rubberized undercoat. Thin the paint with acetone if your spraying the bottom. If your pouring it in the quarters pour it straight no thinning. What you save thin it pour it through strainers and spray. You can use spray cans from lowes also. but use it prior to undercoating it.

When I use the 3 foot wand through the undercoat gun. I keep the paint straight also. Use a small body plugs for the front and rear of the rocker. Wand it from each end.

They are doing the rockers and painting the trunk on the Duster this week end . I Hope ! . I'll take some pictures and post them.
 
Great info, thanks Steve!
I'm thinking I'm gonna brush the Armor Coat paint on. I'll be on my back on the ground with the car on jack stands. I'll check prices of spray bombs as am alternative. I noticed the shop painted the inside of quarters when looking down from rear 1/4 window, so good news there. I'll take a closer look.
Pics would be great, thanks.
I use 1 gallon cans of black Rustolium paint from Lowes. Then under coat it with rubberized undercoat. Thin the paint with acetone if your spraying the bottom. If your pouring it in the quarters pour it straight no thinning. What you save thin it pour it through strainers and spray. You can use spray cans from lowes also. but use it prior to undercoating it.

When I use the 3 foot wand through the undercoat gun. I keep the paint straight also. Use a small body plugs for the front and rear of the rocker. Wand it from each end.

They are doing the rockers and painting the trunk on the Duster this week end . I Hope ! . I'll take some pictures and post them.
 
You can spray down the quarters but it don't cover as good as when you fill them .Take a scope that has a LED screen. They are cheap at Harbor freight and put it down in there. You'll see the rust that the spray didn't cover.

And if you have a patch welded in. And the seams are over lapped the seam gets filled also. When I put a lower quarter on I over lap the seam on the inside with the opening facing up you can let the paint flow right in. When you weld a patch on that is the first place it starts to rust is at the weld that you cannot get to on the inside of the seam. Fill the quarter you fill the welded seam. even across the bottom.

I'll take some pics of the screen when I put it down in the front of the quarters. My rears are already done. You are not going to believe the rust down in there. Ray Barton was having cars heated to about 300 degrees burning every thing off and dipping them in a stripper tank then dipping them in a neutralizer and paint.

That is the only way to stop the rust that you cannot see or get to. Unless you fill some of them up with a rust inhibitor

. I am selling the brown Duster so I am using Rust-o-lium its 6 times cheaper. My Demon and my Orange Duster bodies will be fill with chassis saver then drained even the rails. Its $40.00 a quart. Probably needs 4 gallons and you throw out whats left. Unlike rust-o-lium that you can reuse.
 
Hey 4spdragtop not wanting to add to the great info your getting but just so you know cavity wax gets all over everything so best to make sure it's cleaned off before you do any painting or under coating.
Most body shops will wait till the car is painted and just before assembly before doing cavity wax. Just my 2 cents.
 
Thanks Fred, good point. I went and saw a retired body guy the other day close to town. Told him the situation and asked if he would swing by to offer some advice and direction for me. Offered to compensate him for his time. Said nope, be glad to swing by. Swung by today in his 70 RR. He said everything looks good underneath. Solid structurally and no issues. So I'll try to figure a way out to raise it up and start scuffing, prepping for Armor Coat, I'll end up brushing and rolling it on.
Heres pics of his rides from his shop Friday and here today. Both him añd his wife are great people.

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Thanks Fred, good point. I went and saw a retired body guy the other day close to town. Told him the situation and asked if he would swing by to offer some advice and direction for me. Offered to compensate him for his time. Said nope, be glad to swing by. Swung by today in his 70 RR. He said everything looks good underneath. Solid structurally and no issues. So I'll try to figure a way out to raise it up and start scuffing, prepping for Armor Coat, I'll end up brushing and rolling it on.
Heres pics of his rides from his shop Friday and here today. Both him añd his wife are great people.

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Glad you got a good car sure makes a difference in getting it done with less frustrations.
Nice RR and even the Ford is nice.
 
tiny sword fighting, get over it
As per toolmanmike I will not interact or sell or help on this site or its members.
so mature
OMM got dicked around by Robert Mills Bigboy 68 and voiced his experiences in a thread. Downhill slide from there and Steve OMM is justifiably pi$$ed.
maybe so, time to move on
 
That really sucks for the majority of us that enjoy your stories/experiences , wealth of knowledge and tell it like it is attitude.
It does suck but I am happy Toolman stepped in and took care of it we got to have some kind of order around here. Just wish people could choose to disagree and leave it at that.
 
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