Fast Ez efi

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Scoots340

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Has anyone had any success with Fast's ez efi? I can not get my car to run right with this set up. Acceleration is inconsistent times it will rev up when driving other times it's like its fighting itself. Car has the complete kit, tank, pump, and regulator. When I bought the car this was already on it. Car is a 70 Duster 340.
 
I have the Fast 2.0 EFI, and it runs very well. I know that with this unit you can tune the accelerator output with the hand held. The 2.0 is self tuning and it seems to correct itself. I am not familiar with the EZ as to it's capabilities. Have you tried to call them? It is a pain sometimes to talk to support.
Have you looked at the engine timing?
 
We set up a friends cuda with a dual quad version and it's been great.

You sure it has clean power?
 
We set up a friends cuda with a dual quad version and it's been great.

You sure it has clean power?
I have been running a 2.0 for about 7ish years , the more I tune on it the better it gets, don't drive the car all that much, it probly still a little fat in midrange --pretty happy w/ it so far.
 
If it’s anything like my fi tech set up, it needs to self learn but just driving it under multiple conditions. PITA honestly but the more it’s driven the better it gets. But I still get the occasionally flare of rpm. Then it settles down. FI tech tech told me “it’s just the car wanting to be driven. They don’t like parking and idling.”
 
The Fast system has a data logger. It records operating parameters, reviewing those will lead you to the problems. An example, you are cruising, then engine acts up. Review log, for TPS, RPM, MAP, temperature, timing , fuel delivery... Values should be fairly stable on flat road, large changes will pinpoint problem. Could be noise or connections on senor wiring.
 
Kit, that is a good advice, I have found out that noise from a MSD box will interfere with the EFI.
 
Noise is related to sharp edges (fast rise and fall times) of signals. A short transient can theoretically have infinite harmonics. That suggests CDI by design is noisy. EFI and CDI together problematic.
 
Noise is related to sharp edges (fast rise and fall times) of signals. A short transient can theoretically have infinite harmonics. That suggests CDI by design is noisy. EFI and CDI together problematic.

fast 2.0 and MSD 6 , no problems----------Am leaner everywhere than the self learn.
 
I belive all that. Wiring methods and placement can be crucial. Results vary :).

I self tune too, there is a special and correct place for each adjustment. Self tuning is not a cure all.
 
Has anyone had any success with Fast's ez efi? I can not get my car to run right with this set up. Acceleration is inconsistent times it will rev up when driving other times it's like its fighting itself. Car has the complete kit, tank, pump, and regulator. When I bought the car this was already on it. Car is a 70 Duster 340.
I'd check the basics. Remember EFI needs high pressure fuel always. Check to make sure you have constant fuel pressure. What's the AFR showing, rich or lean? Are the plug wire boots good and not torn. Lots of easy things to check before assuming it's the controller or the tune that's the problem.
I'd also connect the computer (or handheld) and check to make sure the sensors are ready correct values. Maybe you have a MAP sensor or TPS failing. The TPS is really easy to check with an ohmmeter.
 
A TPS is a pot, but and Ohm meter does not always show a problem. Found that out working with a TBI Omni. The TPS can get noisy like an old radio volume control. The increasing change in TPS value, triggers acceleration fuel adders. Noise does same thing.

How can a new TPS go bad? Silicone lubricants are evil around pots and contacts.
 
Perhaps I need to drive it more. I reset the computer after adding the regulator when I got the car it was running 80psi. Checked my base timing.

The model I have doesn't have a data logger. The throttle body looks like the version one but display looks like the 2.0.

The afr swings rich and lean. Could be the 02?

What is everyone using for their afr targets?
 
Perhaps I need to drive it more. I reset the computer after adding the regulator when I got the car it was running 80psi. Checked my base timing.

The model I have doesn't have a data logger. The throttle body looks like the version one but display looks like the 2.0.

The afr swings rich and lean. Could be the 02?

What is everyone using for their afr targets?
Start at the recommended ratios , and 43# of fuel pressure , ideling !!
 
A TPS is a pot, but and Ohm meter does not always show a problem. Found that out working with a TBI Omni. The TPS can get noisy like an old radio volume control. The increasing change in TPS value, triggers acceleration fuel adders. Noise does same thing.

How can a new TPS go bad? Silicone lubricants are evil around pots and contacts.

I would't blame solvents on a TPS failure as most of them are sealed up pretty good. It is a mechanical device, it can fail from wear. I serioulsy doubt this car has been driven enough to wear it out, but it is an easy thing to check off the list as being good. Checking with a ohmmeter should be fine, just sweep it very slowly.
Signals that have an AC or DC switching frequency like crank and cam sensors, coil signals, etc are the ones that create electrical noise. I would assume since this was a pre-packaged deal, the harness came with the appropriate shielded wires for those signals. With that said I wouldn't recommend running ignition wires near the EFI signal wires just to be extra cautious.
 
Perhaps I need to drive it more. I reset the computer after adding the regulator when I got the car it was running 80psi. Checked my base timing.

The model I have doesn't have a data logger. The throttle body looks like the version one but display looks like the 2.0.

The afr swings rich and lean. Could be the 02?

What is everyone using for their afr targets?

Does the engine idle rough or does it just act up under throttle? Is AFR ever steady or only when you feel the hesitation you describe? Is it an external AFR meter or one that is built into the EFI controller? Check the O2 sensor, they should be mounted with an angle pointing downward in the exhaust. If it is horizontal or pointing up, they are susceptible to moisture settling in them and can cause failure. If you have a bad O2 and the controller is using it as the fueling target, you are going to have problems. Is there a way to turn off AFR control in the controller? That way it will run open loop and ignore the O2 sensor.
 
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