I’m anew member. Posted the other day on welcome wagon. Thanks to all for the welcome. I took these pics today at work on level ground. I’m not sure but I think it sets way to low to be factory. Just looking for some opinions. It has hooker headers and the drivers side is about 3 maybe 4 inches off the ground. I don’t have a pic of that but I’ll post one shortly after this post
Does this car look squatted
- Thread starter Dan s
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Here is my stock dart, keep in mind 52 years of spring sag. Your rear looks about the same your front looks too high to me. ( I'm sure due to headers the front was raised) forgot to mention there are measurements in the FSM
Yeah they just sag out like that after 50 years of gravity pulling on them. Lots of times that bottom leaf is cracked in half at the center bolt contributing to the sagging of the leaf springs.
Can pull that bottom short leaf out and put in the heavier so called Big Block short leaf in it's place (about 3/8" thick). Gives it a 2 inch rise without being too stiff, and standard shocks.
As in this picture of '67 Dart's leaf stack.
Can pull that bottom short leaf out and put in the heavier so called Big Block short leaf in it's place (about 3/8" thick). Gives it a 2 inch rise without being too stiff, and standard shocks.
As in this picture of '67 Dart's leaf stack.
What size are your tires? They look pretty tall to me and your rear springs look like could be replaced.
The front end may be set high to give more clearance for the headers.
You can put bigger tires on and make it look better. It does need springs though.
Nice Stance . . .
I figured the rear leafs are shot. If the front has been lifted I fuse the po tightened the torsion bars. It needs new ones too. They are the original. At 70 it’s like riding a boat in the Gulf of Mexico. Lol. And body roll. It has a lot. Lol
I'll disagree with saying it needs new rear springs based on the photo.
The rear should not be higher than the front for most uses.
The rear leafs should be flat at normal load. This provides the most lateral control of the axle and makes sure the axle helps the car turn.
This is how Chrysler designed 'em. Chrysler explains it in the in this booklet about handling.
Increasing the rear arch can improve launch with sticky tires on the drag strip if anti-squat geometry is maintained or improved.
Trying to find the original rear ride height is difficult.
The only rear height info I've seen from the factory is at Hamtramck Historical.
For example this one:
The 1970 Hamtramck Registry "Chrysler Passenger Car Bumper Heights 1965 thru 1976" Page
Note that on page two that these are for fully loaded (5 passengers, full fuel) but does not say what options. Also the bumpers are somewhat adjustable and the body has some slop. So these are visual body related, not so much suspension setup info.
As mentioned early in this thread, the first thing to do is check the front ride height.
That is adjustable and the specs are in the shop manual.
As far as age and wear I agree. In general, I consider a rear leaf with 75K miles as getting into range of possibly needing replacement. It depends on its past use and abuse. The more times the spring has cycled, especially if cycled to extremes (drag race launches, carrying heavy loads, etc) there will be shorter life span. Occassionally you'll find a original heavier duty spring pack (like used on 383 cars, Formula S, special order) have kept their resiliance and shape surprisingly well. Rubber bushings, and the zince interleafs may still need to be replaced. Make decisions based on the condition of the spring, not some generalization.
In my opinion, hooker headers on a abody are designed very poorly. The left side where they go under the steering linkage usually gets smashed flat pretty quickly. You can’t have the car set very low in the front without this happening frequently. The picture is how I fixed the problem on my car.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Every time I see your car, I think it has perfect tire proportions and rake for a street car.
If those headers are like most, they are run under the steering gear. Horrible design and I'd toss 'em first chance I get. Dougs or TTI will give you much more clearance, confidence, and maybe even more power.
As far as suspension, many members here will give you feedback (read: Get into huge arguments) over how much is enough, but I think we all agree that stock can easily be improved upon.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
You beat my post by a minute, quick-draw.
Did you cut those up on the car? If so, how'd you keep chips out of the cylinders? Cut 'em up with engine running?
About equivalent to stock.
The boat could be shocks. Could be shocks and springs.
Body roll could be the above or it could be normal. Depends on how much time you've spent in cars and trucks from the 60s and 70s.
Really nothing gained by throwing parts at it. Half the stuff sold these days is junk.
Get a shop manual. A factory one - not a generic.
Get a set of jack stands, wheel chocks, and jack; and some cardboard to lay on.
Measure the ride height. Check the condition of everything on the suspension and steering.
Also check the wheel bearings, joints - and make sure you follow the shop manual on checking the upper and lower ball joints!
Then make your shopping list.
If you want a little better street handling and its not equiped with the optional anti-sway bar, get one.
I didn’t give that enough thought till after I did it. Was working on starter wiring & they pissed me off for the last time. Didn’t see any contamination. Used my vacuum to to clean up just to be sure. Probably got lucky.
Tinmannz
Well-Known Member
To give you a bit more perspective to where your stance is, here's a pic of my 71'. It sits perfectly level, has 17" wheels and the tire height is 25". Top of front tire even with the wheel arch and rear wheel tucked up inside.
Yours looks a tad bit lower on the rear, which mentioned in prior posts is probably due to age. You can either re-arc the leaf springs, buy new ones or add an ugly shackle.
I'm curious, does the car have the bachelor lean? Left side lower than the right side, due to solo occupancy over the years.
I have TTI headers and they hang evenly with the transmission oil pan on mine. I don't understand why one header would be lower than the other, unless they're mismatched or a cheaper set.
Post 11 reminds me of a buddy of mine that used to say "I wouldn't change oil without a set of torches around". In this case a reciprocating saw or cut off wheel. But definitely worth remembering that shortcut. Another member on here had some sweet looking fender well exits made for an early a with a small block by Hedmans Hussler division in Atlanta. Worth noting if you want to get out of the usual header hassles.
My goodness, I agree that is a beautiful example of a well thought out Dart.
But I have to say Welcome to Dan s. I was worried that your question was loaded like my wife's, when she asks, Do these pants make my butt look big?
That answer cost me two weeks of eating crow and a dozen roses. I never said I was too bright ;)
1969reddart
or is it Copper...
In my opinion, Darts of this year look correct when the top of the back rim to the wheel opening and the top of the front tire to the wheel opening are the same distance looking at it from the side. (with the same height of side wall)
I like the higher rear look. Mine has 7 leaf springs on the back. Were on there when I bought it.
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And that boys and girls are what they should look like. Honking perfect stance TMM! Of course they sit a bit lower if the trunk is full of Shandy! Just sayin.......
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