The incredible folding Cuda!

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cut the complete front off and the rear with springs

If the alignment holes are there at the back of the inner fenders do not mess with them

remove the windsheild and Take the complete dash out

.You need to take as much off that shell.from the rear seat forward as possible. You will be putting the doors back on

Take measurements from the rear rails forward . Sides and hump to place the torsion cross properly. That will be the first part that will need to be replaced after fixing the rockers.

Its ashame we just scrapped a rust free notch for the clip for a fast back. I have had them here just as bad and they left perfect. We are now building a fixture as seen below from a perfect 108 body to fix twisted drag cars and rotted ones. But we have done many like this without the stand.

The best thing you can do is make a square and level perimeter stand out of heavy steel angle or beams to set the rockers on and strap weld it in place after you refit the doors and square the openings. Physically seeing the car would be the only way to advise you what needs to be done. there are many bodies out there that are available with far less rust .
Why do you want to save this car? Would be the first thing I would think about. That body has no numbers that are usable. These notch rear bodies are out there . we discard them to fix fastbacks when the customer brings the cars. Don't jump into something that is over your head. Once you start you are commited.

Look at the under side of the cowl I believe you will find it needs one.

Make a perimeter table with attachment fixtures is the first thing to do. Or take it to someone who has one

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Not sure what this refers to: "If the alignment holes are there at the back of the inner fenders do not mess with them"
 
Looks like the torsion bars are holding the car together. I would leave them in till I get it squared up.
The pass side bar isn't holding anything, the support end is broke loose. There was a chunk of 2x4 stuck on top of the stop under the control arm so the fender wasn't down on the tire. I think the only things holding this thing from folding up are the inner fenders and the steering column.. not touching those or the torsion bars until I get it braced to hell and back.
 
cut the complete front off and the rear with springs

If the alignment holes are there at the back of the inner fenders do not mess with them

remove the windsheild and Take the complete dash out

.You need to take as much off that shell.from the rear seat forward as possible. You will be putting the doors back on

Take measurements from the rear rails forward . Sides and hump to place the torsion cross properly. That will be the first part that will need to be replaced after fixing the rockers.

Its ashame we just scrapped a rust free notch for the clip for a fast back. I have had them here just as bad and they left perfect. We are now building a fixture as seen below from a perfect 108 body to fix twisted drag cars and rotted ones. But we have done many like this without the stand.

The best thing you can do is make a square and level perimeter stand out of heavy steel angle or beams to set the rockers on and strap weld it in place after you refit the doors and square the openings. Physically seeing the car would be the only way to advise you what needs to be done. there are many bodies out there that are available with far less rust .
Why do you want to save this car? Would be the first thing I would think about. That body has no numbers that are usable. These notch rear bodies are out there . we discard them to fix fastbacks when the customer brings the cars. Don't jump into something that is over your head. Once you start you are commited.

Look at the under side of the cowl I believe you will find it needs one.

Make a perimeter table with attachment fixtures is the first thing to do. Or take it to someone who has one

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"Why do you want to save this car? Would be the first thing I would think about."
In a nutshell, I have time. I don't have money. I'm trying to look at it like getting experience.. practice. It's what I have. It's worth saving I think.. it's not going to be a show car trailer queen.. just something I can have fun in, as long as it's safe for what I want to drive it as.
 
WOW, think I`d junk that puppy !
That might happen yet. But for now, it's what I got. I scour craigslist every day, looking for a notch donor car cheap enough and close enough for me to swap parts to. I've found a few, but too much that I can afford with price and distance. Until I find that hidden gem, I'll pick away at this, and learn. Maybe drive it someday... work on it when I can and money allows me to get closer to that.
 
Do you have the skills needed to successfully complete this difficult repair? If so, great; go for it. I LOVE difficult rust repair, but it isn't easy or for everybody. If not (or if you are not sure), you need to think twice. Don't misunderstand, I am NOT trying to talk you out of anything, I would lust hate to see you get frustrated and junk it after several years of work.
 
So for now, you are going to bite it off? I think that's admirable. People have fixed plenty worse cars. If you have those blueprints with the dedicated frame measuring hole locations, you will be able to have good reference points. Although no way to know without measuring, but I am willing "to bet" the frame from the firewall back (the basic car "cab") might be square and true......at least as good as it came. lol They were never perfect being assembly line cars. Proof of that can be found when measuring rear wheel wells. One usually is a little tighter than the other. I bet, like Steve (@Oldmanmopar ) talked about, if you get the torsion cross member in the "right spot" it will probably start falling together. Course, you're gonna need some new stuff "up front" for sure, but that car is plenty saveable, IMO and I think you can do it. Look how much you've done already. One step at a time.
 
Do you have the skills needed to successfully complete this difficult repair? If so, great; go for it. I LOVE difficult rust repair, but it isn't easy or for everybody. If not (or if you are not sure), you need to think twice. Don't misunderstand, I am NOT trying to talk you out of anything, I would lust hate to see you get frustrated and junk it after several years of work.
Do I have the skills right now? No. Am I capable of learning those skills? Hell yes... I'm good at learning new things... I've self taught myself a lot of stuff. My job as a network engineer/ Sr. network admin is entirely self taught. I used to do stained glass work, all self taught. Photography as well. And I have a hugely awesome resource from this site.. not just book learning, but from people that have 'been there done that' and are awesome at giving help!
 
So for now, you are going to bite it off? I think that's admirable. People have fixed plenty worse cars. If you have those blueprints with the dedicated frame measuring hole locations, you will be able to have good reference points. Although no way to know without measuring, but I am willing "to bet" the frame from the firewall back (the basic car "cab") might be square and true......at least as good as it came. lol They were never perfect being assembly line cars. Proof of that can be found when measuring rear wheel wells. One usually is a little tighter than the other. I bet, like Steve (@Oldmanmopar ) talked about, if you get the torsion cross member in the "right spot" it will probably start falling together. Course, you're gonna need some new stuff "up front" for sure, but that car is plenty saveable, IMO and I think you can do it. Look how much you've done already. One step at a time.
Thanks for the encouragement RRR! It made me think a little.. I've only really been working on it for a year, and not much in the winter as my garage isn't heated. Most of last summer was spent on getting the '74 Dart 4 dr. parted out for the inner tub. I've come a long way, and learned a ton.. and the help from this site is invaluable to me!
 
I got the exhaust out today, a PITA doing it by myself, but I didn't have to cut it. I don't know who cut the collector off, but it's still on the header. Only 2", but it looks in really good shape. Poked around on the rear frame rails while I was under there, but those look really good from what I saw. Trunk floor looks good to.

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Thanks for the encouragement RRR! It made me think a little.. I've only really been working on it for a year, and not much in the winter as my garage isn't heated. Most of last summer was spent on getting the '74 Dart 4 dr. parted out for the inner tub. I've come a long way, and learned a ton.. and the help from this site is invaluable to me!

Then probably this is less than six months worth of work. You've gotten a lot done. Keep that perspective.
 
Then probably this is less than six months worth of work. You've gotten a lot done. Keep that perspective.
I just have to keep fighting the "while I'm here. I'm going to spend money and time making this one part absolutely perfect" gremlins. I have to keep in mind that this is going to be a fun to drive summer car... not a trailer car show queen, or a drag strip terror. I can always go back and do that stuff later when money is better. Get the thing (safely) on the road!
 
Don't be making fun of my Green Duster. That's my pride & joy. I have a great motor already built for it.
Lol
 
Now is the time to back half it and add a cage while you're at it.
Cope can advise you on the process. lol :D
 
Now is the time to back half it and add a cage while you're at it.
Cope can advise you on the process. lol :D

For the green car?

Yes. First off get the D9 fired up, drive the 9 over the car. That will level the entire frame back to square.

Next just buff the track marks off the vinyl and SEND IT!

Or the red car?

Yeah send it to me. I can make room in the shop.
 
Got the tank pulled out this morning. It has A markings on it, would that denote an original a-body tank?
Also cleaned out the trunk. looks in good shape. One hole in the floor above the pass side back spring mount. Red paint peeling off, looks like the orgiinal green paint underneath.
Poked around a little more underneath, back frame rails and spring mounts look great, but there is a lot of undercoating, still have to poke around some more. A few holes in the floor above the front spring mounts.

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Pulled the sending unit out, not sure if it's an original type, hafta look that up. Fished out these other objects out of the tank, not sure what they are for. I think I know what the top one is. There's still one in the tank rattling around, but I got tired of the 'turn the gas tank shuffle'.

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Pulled the sending unit out, not sure if it's an original type, hafta look that up. Fished out these other objects out of the tank, not sure what they are for. I think I know what the top one is. There's still one in the tank rattling around, but I got tired of the 'turn the gas tank shuffle'.

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probably parts of the float, the float is missing in the picture.
 
I confirmed what the long black thing is... a petrified pencil.
Little Johhny is in trouble now!
Ah, wait, Johhny's probably retired by now. :)

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I'm not sure which admin moved this to this forum, but thank you! And thanks for all you do!
 
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