Do I NEED to prime it?

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doogievlg

doogievlg

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I am hoping to have my motor running tomorrow for the first time in about a year and a half. It was broke in on a dyno so I’m not too worried about the typical first fire up stuff. However I am concerned about how long it’s been sitting. I would like to prime the oil pump but I do not have the tool needed. Would I be safe just disconnecting the fuel and turning it over until it builds oil pressure or should I force myself to wait?
 
If you have an old intermediate shaft you can grind the teeth off the gear so it clears the cam and use it as a priming-tool.
Or remove the gear completely and fab/weld a socket on the remaining shaft.
You can prime an engine with a ratchet tool if you need to.
 
Just disconnect the coil wire and turn over for about 30 seconds, until the oil pressure builds, nice if you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge
 
I had an engine sitting in a car on the side of my house for about 3 years, dropped it in another car and fired it right up without priming the oil system and it was fine... It ran over 150,000 miles before I rebuilt it again to keep it fresh....

Or do what Steven said and disconnect the coil and crank it for 30 seconds or so to get the oil through the system...
 
My dart had sat for nearly 20 years when I got it. I pulled the plugs and cranked it over for about a minute and to prime the oil. That engine ran great for several years and thousands of miles. But, I had plans to replace it anyway so I didn't care much if it hurt it.

I think that pulling the plugs and not allowing it to build compression will give it the best chance to prime without hurting anything.
 
Yes. Turn it without the spark plugs in until you have pressure using a mech. guage or watch for oil at the rockers. while you are priming the pump. Rockers get oil per side only when the cam lines up with the oil holes in the block. Also you don't want pressure on the connecting rods until they have oil.
 
Easy-peasy to make a priming shaft for this: Get a 3' length of 5/16" mild steel round rod from any hardware store. Using hammer and hard surface (vice, old engine block or head, etc.), hammer the rod into a hex shape. It's easy to shape mild steel, takes 1-2 minutes, and the resulting hex will be the right size to slip into and drive the oil ump.
 
$11.99, you've waited a year and a half to start this motor that you paid to have broken and dynoed...
Please have a couple days of patience and by a stupid priming tool....
 
I’m not doing it until I prime it. Might not need to buy it certainly couldn’t hurt. Plus I got plenty of work to get done on the fuel tank today.
 
When my motor sits for six months I mean I just popped distributor off and shoot the tool down there and turn the motor a little bit by hand...
Once you have the tools you'll probably use it more than you thought you would. And again if it's just sat for a few months it's nice to just buzzed up the oil pressure when you feel like...
 
On many occasions I have started engines hat have been sitting for unknown periods of time without worrying about priming them, never had any problems. In most of those situations I was hoping for a good outcome, but if the engine had been pooched, it would not have been a big problem. In this situation, I would not be willing to risk the investment in a newly built motor to impatience. I suggest either make a priming tool out of a old shaft if you have one, or go and buy or borrow one. How much longer will you be waiting if it goes bad before you can get your car running?
 
Just pull the spark plugs and crank it until you have oil pressure. Hell if I primed all of my cars engines after they sat I'd never get to drive any of them.
 
Go to a car parts place and buy a priming rod. I bought one years ago for ten bucks. While I agree that you may very likely be able to just start it with no problems, why risk it. Dry starts can be MURDER on an engine. Pulling the plugs and turning the engine over is also a good option, but make sure you pull the plugs. Faster spin and less strain on the starter.
 
harrisonm said:
Go to a car parts place and buy a priming rod. I bought one years ago for ten bucks. While I agree that you may very likely be able to just start it with no problems, why risk it. Dry starts can be MURDER on an engine. Pulling the plugs and turning the engine over is also a good option, but make sure you pull the plugs. Faster spin and less strain on the starter.
Click to expand...

Will local parts stores carry a pruning tool for small block Chrysler’s lol
 
doogievlg said:
I am hoping to have my motor running tomorrow for the first time in about a year and a half. It was broke in on a dyno so I’m not too worried about the typical first fire up stuff. However I am concerned about how long it’s been sitting. I would like to prime the oil pump but I do not have the tool needed. Would I be safe just disconnecting the fuel and turning it over until it builds oil pressure or should I force myself to wait?
Click to expand...

Steven190 said:
Just disconnect the coil wire and turn over for about 30 seconds, until the oil pressure builds, nice if you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge
Click to expand...

Totally agree with pulling the plugs and cranking till the pressure comes up.
Pulling the plugs first will take all that compression pressure of your lower end bearings while cranking.
Motors don't just dry out when they have not been run for a long time, and you'd be surprised how much is still hanging around on the bearings.
 
doogievlg said:
Will local parts stores carry a pruning tool for small block Chrysler’s lol
Click to expand...

I believe the same tool works for both big and small block chrysler. I was able to buy priming tools for ford and chevy locally but as always, nothing for Mopar!
 
Okay let's get this 100% clear that using a priming tool will clearly pump oil through channels. Did the pump loses Prime? Will it take awhile for the pump to even get it sucked up to the tube through the well filter and down through your places? I 100% disagree was spinning the motor without oil have that has been previously pumped through it. Anybody will tell you 99% of engine where is on at startup? What the hell are you thinking...
I'll drive up to my local parts store and take a picture of one and be back here or up there posting it within 10 minutes. On a bet. I actually used it on my buddies 403 Oldsmobile motor in his Trans Am when we broke it in.
 
If you can get the timing right on and fuel in the carb bowls so the motor will fire and keep running the first time you turn the key, no need to pre oil since all the assembly lube will insure against a dry start.

However, do something a little dumb because you are anxious to get things running can have consequences. For example, during the startup of my first small block rebuild I did not index the slot of the distributor correctly so that when setting the initial timing, the vacuum advance was bumping into the firewall and limiting the advance I could set up.

I cranked and cranked. Finally, I found a way to get it running. Wiped a lobe off the camshaft in the process.
 
If motor has been run assembly lube is long gone and motor oil does not stick around long
If motor is going to sit
change the oil and run it with STP- stp never runs off, actually embeds into the pores of the metal
and put some gas tank saver in the gas tank so your carb does not gum up- or run it dry
I've had to fix motors where the valve guides froze up with varnish after sitting- bending all the pushrods when starting

Hex stock is widely available
do not leave home without it
 
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