One wire GM style alternator wiring help needed.

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rod7515

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Working on a 408 in a 66 Dart. The wiring has been modified drastically so I am looking for someone that could post up a diagram of how to wire this including a Continuous duty relay that has 2 large posts and one small post. Also can you explain why I should be using the CDR. My battery has been moved to the trunk and the positive post has 2 #2 wires coming off it. One goes to the large post on the starter relay and one goes to the large post on the starter. Right now I have a one field wire chrysler alt and using a voltage reg. the ALt has a #8 wire for power. Also using a 2 post cutoff switch that is actually 2 large polls and 2 small polls.
Appreciate any help you can give.
Thanks Rod
 
I guess I'm confused as to the complexity of the question, When the purpose of a self regulating, 1 wire alternator is to bypass all the original wiring and simply install a self exciting alternator that has a single wire running directly to the positive post of the battery...Or I suppose the starter relay post if you have that jumped back to the battery. I would make sure the charge wire was adequate gauge also.

Is there a reason to complicate it beyond that?

I just installed a 1 wire myself, and was happy with the cleaner install, and eliminating the OE type setup.

Adding a kill switch inline should be as simple as breaking the positive battery cable between your battery post in the trunk, and where you have it bulkheaded to the starter relay. (As long as it kills your ignition also) I don't necessarily like that you have a 2nd wire running to the starter. But if your kill switch post "out" became your new splitter for those 2 wires, it would kill everything, including the starters ability to crank.

Hope that helps? And hope I didn't just ramble on too much about a question you weren't really asking lol
 
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My GM 100 amp alt. was mounted using the power steering bracket as seen. I had a Pos. bat. bulkhead mounted to the frame rail and connected to the directly to the Alt. with that large black wire pictured. I kept throwing the belt at 8500 RPMs. so I put normally closed relay between the Alt and the bulk head to shut the alt off before doing my burnout. Just the opposite of a starter relay . If you shut the alt. off there is no resistance on the belt from the alt. works great.

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Johnny Mac, Im not trying to make it that difficult I dont think or at least Im hoping not.
Again my wiring is pretty much custom fit to the Chrysler one field wire system but my battery has gone to the trunk. When I did this 3 or 4 years ago I was told to add the CDR in the circuit (and I cant remember why but it was a good reason). I also took all my wiring and re did it because I wanted no wires in the engine compartment so everything is hidden under the dash or in the trunk (Cutoff switch anf fuel pump relay).
The CDR has 2 large terminals in the side an one small terminal on the front of the body. Of course I also have a stock regulator under the dash as well as my starter relay.
Most importantly my charging system works fine as it is. The reason for changing is my dad bought me a CVF belt system that includes the 1 wire GM system.I tried adding it by removing the regulator wiring and using the supply for the current alt and that did not work out. SO now im trying to get exactly what I need in a drawing so I can redo all this one last time.
So my question is can anyone supply a drawing of how I should wire all this with a 1 wire GM alternator. And I guess it will still include the CDR or maybe not?
I dont care as long as the system charges and the car starts. I only have 3 weeks left to get everything done on this car as I am going to the car show in Ridgley Md. which is the last one that Richard Petty is attending there.

Oldmanmopar, can you explain exactly where your wiring goes from and too? Thast good information on the Alt belt jumping should I have the issue once this is all done.
Thanks Rod
 
It is one wire from the alternator to the relay to the battery. There is only one wire on the alternator that heavy black one. The alternator turns on by itself at 800 rpms. No extra wires needed. One heavy wire right to the battery. You do not need the relay unless you want to shut it off manually when racing. Look at the pictures . I only needed a 8 inch wire when I installed it . When I installed the relay I added another heavy wire and the small wires to a toggle switch to split the heavy wire and stop it from going to the battery source. You only need one wire to the battery.
 
Here is a picture before the shut off relay was installed. As you can see the black wire went from the alenator right to my Positive battery post which is under the Black plastic cover . When I installed the shut off I had the wire going to the relay and then the positive post.

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For cars that sit a lot, a GM one wire alternator will drain the battery in about a month. They pull about 75 micro amps all the time. Doesn’t sound like much, but it is enough to drain a battery over a period of time. Found this out on my boat with a chevy engine. A cutoff switch would help this, or you could just disconnect the battery when not driving foe awhile.
 
My GM 100 amp alt. was mounted using the power steering bracket as seen. I had a Pos. bat. bulkhead mounted to the frame rail and connected to the directly to the Alt. with that large black wire pictured. I kept throwing the belt at 8500 RPMs. so I put normally closed relay between the Alt and the bulk head to shut the alt off before doing my burnout. Just the opposite of a starter relay . If you shut the alt. off there is no resistance on the belt from the alt. works great.

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That's a great idea.
Where did you get the N/C relay ?
 
For cars that sit a lot, a GM one wire alternator will drain the battery in about a month. They pull about 75 micro amps all the time. Doesn’t sound like much, but it is enough to drain a battery over a period of time. Found this out on my boat with a chevy engine. A cutoff switch would help this, or you could just disconnect the battery when not driving foe awhile.

I put a kill switch on the battery. I drilled a hole on the reverse light so not to mess up the car with a hole through the body. The wheel house had a tab on it with a hole. It was a perfect spot for the ground wire

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For cars that sit a lot, a GM one wire alternator will drain the battery in about a month. They pull about 75 micro amps all the time. Doesn’t sound like much, but it is enough to drain a battery over a period of time. Found this out on my boat with a chevy engine. A cutoff switch would help this, or you could just disconnect the battery when not driving foe awhile.
I just use a battery maintainer, I leave it on 24/7 when the car is not in use.
 
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