LA Oiling Question

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Looking forward to this. Thanks.
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The holes are all off...they send more off the bearing backing to the cam than main.
when I get back on my 340 thread I'll post pictures and show you what I'm talking about I basically am changing all my bearings out due to the fact that the Clevite full grooves oil feed hole was offset towards the cam and there is a small v passage where they intersect that's too small to deliver the amount of oil needed.
Pretty fkn lame.
I dont have that issue with 360's...but hey..
You want the hole the same size as the feed 5/16 I think..on the main and lined up, cam is secondary and good off the v intersection.
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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Have fun disagreeing.
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I'm not going to argue with you... I made my point and you've made yours, let others decide what they want...

You build your engine your way and I will build mine my way...


MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I would never drill the lifter galley plug and have it piss on the chain, total waste imo.
Way to send more oil to wrong places.
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I do agree with you on that.... I don't recommend drilling a small hole in the oil galley plug and/or thrust plate to lube the timing chain...
 
Well I learned something here; I might have to pull my motor out and plug a buncha holes I drilled that I thought would help her live at 7000plus rpm. I must be very lucky that she survived two decades and over 125,000 miles; still on the same guts I installed in 1999. Well almost all same guts; in 2004 I switched to Plasma-Moly rings; just because. And that was the year my 223/230/110 cam dropped lobes. My fault I guess, but nobody told me about the ZDDP thing.
Yeah still same timing chain. I won't tell you where I put the holy-bolt.Or if I installed the oil-flinger. Or what a pain it was re-installing the chain tensioner.
Nah , if she blows, she blows and I'll just start over. Then again, I'm 66, maybe I'll just sit back, relax, and read a good book. I like Revelation.
 
A lot of things will "run" for a while.
Is it right, wrong, necessary...time will tell.
It's all food for thought. What if it all works?What if it all doesn't make a lick of difference. Who's the "expert" to tell us all..:popcorn:
 
AJ/FormS said:
Well I learned something here; I might have to pull my motor out and plug a buncha holes I drilled that I thought would help her live at 7000plus rpm. I must be very lucky that she survived two decades and over 125,000 miles; still on the same guts I installed in 1999. Well almost all same guts; in 2004 I switched to Plasma-Moly rings; just because. And that was the year my 223/230/110 cam dropped lobes. My fault I guess, but nobody told me about the ZDDP thing.
Yeah still same timing chain. I won't tell you where I put the holy-bolt.Or if I installed the oil-flinger. Or what a pain it was re-installing the chain tensioner.
Nah , if she blows, she blows and I'll just start over. Then again, I'm 66, maybe I'll just sit back, relax, and read a good book. I like Revelation.
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I like iron maidens "revelations" .
 
I'll stay out of the fight with regards to which opinion is right or wrong, but I'll share my personal experience on the cam plate and gallery plugs. I had a 340, HV oil pump and high pressure spring. No gallery plugs behind the cam plate. Engine ran fine, plenty of oil pressure, no problems. I later did a cam change and happened to spin up the oil pump with a drill before replacing the timing cover. I was shocked at the amount of oil that came squirting out from behind the cam plate. There was maybe 50 psi of pressure. The block was flat, cam plate was flat, 4 bolts and it did not look like the plate in post #12. I was amazed. The oil pressure just bends the plate and the oil sprays out. All it takes is a few thousandths of "bend" away from the block. Hard to say how much oil came out. A guess might be 1-2 gpm. Not a serious problem if you have volume to spare. If you only have 3 bolts in the plate my guess is that it is going to be more. Needless to say, I added the gallery plugs.
 
Darn
I just open up the front of the block drains to the bottom of the trough
and drill a pressure squirter for the chain or gear
I know I drill the BBM to squirt directly on the interesection of the cam and dist gears but forget what I do on a sbm
use an Iwiss chain (check spelling) or other quality brand
Lots of discussion on LA oiling (or lack thereof)
I run the plugs in the oil galleys and drill both of them
mostly to vent trapped air and foam but the gear gets some love too
 
FWIW when I tore down the 2000 m.y. 5.9 Magnum short block now in my Duster I found factory-installed plugs behind the cam plate. I just left them in there, didn't drill them and I couldn't find the bolt with the hole (the factory cam plate didn't have one) so I just put it back together like it was with just the drip tab, no through-hole bolts or drilled plugs. I figured since the stock timing set looked as good as it did with at least 150k miles on the engine (based on the condition of the truck I pulled it out of and the cylinder bores and bearings, dash was a wreck so I couldn't see the digital odometer) doing the tricks to get extra oiling to the timing chain wasn't necessary.

That engine also didn't have a timing chain tensioner so I didn't bother buying and installing another one, plus the chain guides on those don't work well with double-roller chains (edges of the links dig into the plastic pad).
 
all true Moper
the problem comes more with higher rpm motors throwing off oil from the gears with centrifugal force IMHO
 
My 1975 360 had no galley plugs when rebuilt. After 250,000 plus miles engine was still going fine even psi in all cylinders!! No smoke so this motor didn't care to not have galley plugs. I rebuilt it with go fast goodies and now has about 30,000 miles still no plugs doing fine. My dad has a 76 ramcharger 318 his also is without plugs in galley. It's doing just fine his engine is closer to 300,000. Did smoke sometime ago but it was just valve seals. Shes running well.
 
So I just picked up my 340 block today. Had a sleeve put in one cylinder. Cleaned, deck squared, bore .030 over, new cam bearing, soft plugs, you know the whole nine yards. Getting ready to build it this weekend. I had the old guy that has been doing Mopar blocks since the 70's work on it. Yea he has been around that long. And low and behold look what he put in. I thought about going back and telling him how he's been doing it wrong for 50 plus years but I decided not to :)

IMG_20190823_174234546_HDR.jpg
 
should have tapped them for screw in plugs?
drill a hold to vent trapped air and foam and be happy
you can pressure lube the cam and thrust if you want to
I do not trust leaving them out on a performance build- but many do
 
Hellrats said:
So I just picked up my 340 block today. Had a sleeve put in one cylinder. Cleaned, deck squared, bore .030 over, new cam bearing, soft plugs, you know the whole nine yards. Getting ready to build it this weekend. I had the old guy that has been doing Mopar blocks since the 70's work on it. Yea he has been around that long. And low and behold look what he put in. I thought about going back and telling him how he's been doing it wrong for 50 plus years but I decided not to :)

View attachment 1715387001
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Jesus Christ get over it. You can use them or not.
 
I pulled a 340 motor apart and it had plugs that were deep and plugged off half the passage, those are no where as deep as those so I think you will be fine.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The holes are all off...they send more off the bearing backing to the cam than main.
when I get back on my 340 thread I'll post pictures and show you what I'm talking about I basically am changing all my bearings out due to the fact that the Clevite full grooves oil feed hole was offset towards the cam and there is a small v passage where they intersect that's too small to deliver the amount of oil needed.
Pretty fkn lame.
I dont have that issue with 360's...but hey..
You want the hole the same size as the feed 5/16 I think..on the main and lined up, cam is secondary and good off the v intersection.
Click to expand...
I agree with this post. I have pointed out in other posts that some early 340 blocks did not come with the counter bore in the bearing saddle. Lots of oil would then be directed upwards to the cam bearings. My new engine I have slotted the main bearings to half inch in length and restricted the hole size to the cam bearings to 1/8. Also have taken the rocker arm feed away from the main bearings and plumbed to the main galley. I may be wrong, but I believe that Chrysler new of the issue and started to add the bearing saddle counter bore to get more oil to the bearings.
 
Yep, don't want to be perfect. I see how that worked out of him. Smarty pants :lol:
 
yellow rose said:
The bolt with the hole in it is WORTHLESS. Drip oiling if for lawn mowers.

Put four good bolts in the plate and be done with that part of it.

Drill a hole about .040 in the cam plate where it covers the oil gallery for the passenger side. You will get full pressure oil on the timing chain and gears.

Anything else is just mental masuturbation.
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Here's a excerpt from the stroker small block book with a twist.
They recommend a hole in the plug but not for the chain, but for the fuel pump eccentric.

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