Removing the old paint “edges”
FABO,
quick update and question. So I have been focusing on the engine bay and getting it prepped for paint. Sanded it and primed but, was told any of the areas that I used rattle can primer would more less not bond with paint sprayed with a gun. In short form, the paint would lift. So, I went back to the paint MFG (Nason) again and conferred, and of course they said “yup, that is true!”. With that, I scuffed the entire engine bay, ordered the correct primer, and set up to shoot it. I grew concerned the cowl between windshield and bulkhead may not match if shot separate so I went ahead and (re-) primed entire engine bay and on up/around the windshield. Next, light sand of the primer and off to the races with the paint. Ya know what? I’m impressed. Looks pretty damn good. Little buffing and this thing will shine like a diamond.
Called Nason back earlier today to ask for “OEM” level advice on buffing/wet sanding/etc. only to be told..... umm hmm, here it comes...
“Oh, you can’t polish that. It will just buff off. Thats not at all the paint you should have used.” Umm, are you F-ing kidding me? They didn’t think to mention that one of the other 5 times we discussed surface prep, or primer suitable for the paint I ALREADY HAD? The advice was, because it is a industrial machine type paint and apparently nothing @#$& adheres to it either, I will need to take it back down to the primer, if I use their system that is. Any other MFG and (according to them) I will need to go down to the metal.
So, my question, because I have ZERO confidence now in what they suggest, what paint is going to provide as near as a OEM finish and not cost me $150 a pint? Or, tough ****, it’s just going to cost $150 a pint? Not trying to be a tight ***, but it needs to look good and last, not win global recognition for paint quality.
Furthermore, what is the safest way, and product to use for blasting the primer and paint off with OUT warping or damaging the surface?
I don’t mind doing the work, but quite frankly, at what point do you get straight answers from OEM’s without up selling or “you have to use our product start to finish or else” pitch? I just want to do it, again now, one time and it last more than 18 months like I was told today.
Thoughts anyone?
FABO,
quick update and question. So I have been focusing on the engine bay and getting it prepped for paint. Sanded it and primed but, was told any of the areas that I used rattle can primer would more less not bond with paint sprayed with a gun. In short form, the paint would lift. So, I went back to the paint MFG (Nason) again and conferred, and of course they said “yup, that is true!”. With that, I scuffed the entire engine bay, ordered the correct primer, and set up to shoot it. I grew concerned the cowl between windshield and bulkhead may not match if shot separate so I went ahead and (re-) primed entire engine bay and on up/around the windshield. Next, light sand of the primer and off to the races with the paint. Ya know what? I’m impressed. Looks pretty damn good. Little buffing and this thing will shine like a diamond.
Called Nason back earlier today to ask for “OEM” level advice on buffing/wet sanding/etc. only to be told..... umm hmm, here it comes...
“Oh, you can’t polish that. It will just buff off. Thats not at all the paint you should have used.” Umm, are you F-ing kidding me? They didn’t think to mention that one of the other 5 times we discussed surface prep, or primer suitable for the paint I ALREADY HAD? The advice was, because it is a industrial machine type paint and apparently nothing @#$& adheres to it either, I will need to take it back down to the primer, if I use their system that is. Any other MFG and (according to them) I will need to go down to the metal.
So, my question, because I have ZERO confidence now in what they suggest, what paint is going to provide as near as a OEM finish and not cost me $150 a pint? Or, tough ****, it’s just going to cost $150 a pint? Not trying to be a tight ***, but it needs to look good and last, not win global recognition for paint quality.
Furthermore, what is the safest way, and product to use for blasting the primer and paint off with OUT warping or damaging the surface?
I don’t mind doing the work, but quite frankly, at what point do you get straight answers from OEM’s without up selling or “you have to use our product start to finish or else” pitch? I just want to do it, again now, one time and it last more than 18 months like I was told today.
Thoughts anyone?
