I read it was the Derale 17118, it looks pretty much exactly like the flexalite though.
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
-
I read it was the Derale 17118, it looks pretty much exactly like the flexalite though.
So I am finished with that test! 8 days of 8-12 hours non stop studying and I still got beat up by the test, I'll have my results in 3 weeks hopefully I passed!
Now on to the fun of getting the purple beast back together, my daughter is dying asking me to take her to "Skool" in the purple car. Hopefully tomorrow I can have the headers and exhaust bolted up then on to the easy stuff of putting fan and shroud on it.
Also... I may or may not have purchased that summit 1789 cam with lifters for 75 bucks. It was just so cheap, not tons of information out there on it in this forum except for guys running it in their 318. I won't put it in for a while, I want to get it running nice before tearing it all back apart again first.
Now on to the fun of getting the purple beast back together, my daughter is dying asking me to take her to "Skool" in the purple car. Hopefully tomorrow I can have the headers and exhaust bolted up then on to the easy stuff of putting fan and shroud on it.
Also... I may or may not have purchased that summit 1789 cam with lifters for 75 bucks. It was just so cheap, not tons of information out there on it in this forum except for guys running it in their 318. I won't put it in for a while, I want to get it running nice before tearing it all back apart again first.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
U betcha. Have sworn off of cars that had vinyl roofs due to experiences with a 73 Dart Mordor and a 72 Demon. The 73 was rotten in the center, it had been filled in with Great Stuff and covered with spray-in bed liner. It got a needed a re-skin. The vinyl roof on the Demon had been dealer installed. It didn't look bad at first. The first large bump on I-10 leaving California caused an orange cloud to be emitted. What I thought was patina, was terminal West Virginia body cancer. It needed a re-roofing.
Last edited:
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yep, vinyl tops straight up suck. They look nice, but then again a car without them looks even better.
Different strokes for different folks I guess. Mine has been on for 52 years now and is solid as a rock underneath. I use Mother's Back To Black on it every once in a while and get complements on it almost every time I take the car to a show.
you're rare and lucky. I've had 3 mopars with the vinyl tops, all them rotted out underneath, usually just above the lead filler where the skin connects to the quarter. There and the front gutter region
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Again like I said, they look nice. They really do, and if i was of car buying age in the late 60s i probably would have ordered a new car with one. However seeing how badly cars usually end up when the rust gets underneath I wont have one now. I had a 69 dart WSS years ago B5 blue. Blue interior white hat special. Nice car. Got lucky when I redid it that nothing was under that top. I repainted it B5 blue base/clear, painted the top with gloss white Imron paint, snapped the vinyl top trim back on and called it good. Looked great from 25 feet away. Any closer you could tell it was painted. Rust demons thwarted. If we had a rhino linings here back then, i woulda had em shoot it, then I woulda painted over it semigloss white. That all being said if I wanted a vinyl top now, it would be either a spray on rhino liner over epoxy primer, or if it was to be a real vinyl top, thick epoxy primer, and thick paint topcoat, then vinyl top.
Awe I love my vinyl top, I also love that I didn't have a bunch of rot underneath the top besides 1 little spot that the previous owner filled.
When I repair this thing I'll probably paint the entire car, roof included the same color, then have a professional install a new vinyl top.
We can all agree on 1 thing, vinyl too or no vinyl top we are all lucky to have some awesome cars.
When I repair this thing I'll probably paint the entire car, roof included the same color, then have a professional install a new vinyl top.
We can all agree on 1 thing, vinyl too or no vinyl top we are all lucky to have some awesome cars.
I feel like I'm banging my head against a freaking wall. Motor mounts disconnected, engine lifted and still can't clear this. Can't out it in from the too because all the a/c hoses FML I hate headers .
Popped that damn oil filter luckily I got a new one and more oil.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Pull the torsion bar out and/or remove the filter adapter. You'll need new gaskets for it if you take the adapter off.
Yea I have been thinking about that and have realized headers suck and I'm totally paying for it next time I've read to take the torsion bar off you need a torsion bar removal tool, I'm going to look for one here in a bit.
The wife keeps asking, how long until it's finished.... Never!
Dave 74 Dart
Well-Known Member
I've never had air conditioning, but when we changed my son's headers to tti , the drivers side went up from the bottom ( a pain) and passengers side went down from the top(super easy). Not sure if it's easier to remove the air conditioning than the torsion bar.
I actually got the the driver's side in from the top, the passenger side those hoses are just a pita. I just got a torsion bar remover tool so we will see which is easier here in a bit .
the T-bar can be more work, especially if it hasn't been out in 50 years. all the dried grease makes a great glue. if you want to pull the bar without a tool, you need to loosen the strut rod and lower control arm bolt. then you can pry the arm back, (after you remove the T-bar retaining clip and unloaded the adjuster bolt). that will push the bar back, but it can still be a *****. i've used 12" long 2x4's as a removal tool. drill 1/2 holes so you can bolt above and below the bar. that will give you something to beat on. it's easier to pull the filter adapter like 69_340_GTS said.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
You know about removing the big snap-ring at the rear end of the bar, right? Also make sure you completely unload the bar by loosening the adjustment screw at the lower control arm.
Nope, Ive never removed one. I have read a couple of threads on how to do it, and I found a nifty video online of a guy doing it on a early 70s charger that I'm going to watch here in a bit.
I got my fan mounted to my clutch but not in on the wp yet. These bolts are freaking long, I'll probably have to pull the radiator to get it all in because I have even less space with the clutch attached to the new fan with these bolt, or maybe I'll go look for some slightly shorter bolts.
I rented a tool from O-Reilys today to remove the torsion bar
I thought about getting a saz-all too and just chopping everything up cleaning it up might make it more work than trying to take it out though
So I know some people said not to cut the fan shroud but... I cut it anyways and it's looking pretty spiffy all mounted up.
I cut about 1in out of the middle of it, then got some thin metal and attached it back together. Mounts right into the radiator support and looks like it will work out perfectly.
The fan I purchased some 1.5in bolts to attach the clutch to the water pump and it sits about 1.5in from the radiator. I'm thinking this is going to work out nicely .
I cut about 1in out of the middle of it, then got some thin metal and attached it back together. Mounts right into the radiator support and looks like it will work out perfectly.
The fan I purchased some 1.5in bolts to attach the clutch to the water pump and it sits about 1.5in from the radiator. I'm thinking this is going to work out nicely .
For the torsion bar, I removed the C-Clip from the back, loosened the adjuster screw all the way but do I need to loosen this one up front as well?
You don’t need to if you’re using a removal tool. That nut holds the LCA in place, the torsion bar slides into the rear of the LCA
The hex end of the torsion bar
Just slides into the hex socket on the LCA.
Just slides into the hex socket on the LCA.
Also there was definitely no gasket on this but it's off and I definitely believe the headers should fit now
That's what I thought, when reading through some threads it says to loosen everything, so I just wanted to make sure.
Mopar-Mitch
Well-Known Member
Looks like your gasket stuck to the block on the 90 degree adapter.
-
