Removing the old paint “edges”

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before you go ruining what you already have, why don't you try a few light coats of clear on some easily redoable panel, to see if you can find something compatible with what you already have. it looks great what you have done, maybe you can just clear over it and then you can wet sand or buff the clear coat.
 
rustycowll69 said:
before you go ruining what you already have, why don't you try a few light coats of clear on some easily redoable panel, to see if you can find something compatible with what you already have. it looks great what you have done, maybe you can just clear over it and then you can wet sand or buff the clear coat.
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IMO his best route is to stop and get a baseline on what he already has on the car before adding more that may react poorly to what’s already on there.
He’s already had to re-do too much, no need to add to it with maybes.

More than likely he should be able to let what he has FULLY CURE, scuff (grey scotch brite) and use a sealer primer over it followed by a proper SS or BC.

Almost 30 years in paint and body/restoration... I’ve gotten myself into and out of almost every situation you can imagine.
Take your time, read, study and learn from mistakes... this is how we learn.

Doing paint and body work the right way is not as easy as everyone will tell you it is, this is why it is the most time consuming and expensive part of a restoration.

Let us see the tag on the can of paint you used. Take a picture of it.
 
So the car was (spray) primed several years ago ahead of me getting it. I sanded, scuffed, reworked, etc before “re-“ priming with the OEM recommend primer. I think it was a 421-19 (?). This was the result of one of the more recent conversations with Nason. Then, I 320 sanded post-primer and shot what’s in the pic. It laid down great, not unhappy with that piece. SUPER unhappy that I can’t buff it. I had asked a couple of others where they got their paint supplies and they said surprisingly, o’Reilly’s mixes and sells automotive paint. And they had by in large had great success with it. So when I visited the part store, we had lengthy conversation, or what I felt like was the appropriate amount of conversation, for what I was doing. This was the paint the store had suggested, and after visiting with the manufacturer I had no reason to suspect this was the wrong application. It calls out machine on The label, but because all signs pointed in the right direction, I assumed this was just their focused industry. I would suspect that any application that I put paint on, even my engine, would last longer than a couple of years and provide for a great finish. And if I shared with the manufacture it was going on an engine, well they would provide feedback regarding the correct application for what I was using.

Also, I went ahead with the cowling only because it’s getting a vinyl top back on it which come down on the pillars to the cowl. I figured it would be more noticeable as a stand alone area vs shooting with the engine bay. Maybe not but figured I could scuff for profile and repaint if I’m not happy with it. It’s the smallest area in question.

One point though worth mentioning, they also said you can’t paint over this “IE” I used. I think they said because it’s not activated, or bonded maybe? I will admit, when he said “....wrong paint” not much after that stuck with me.....

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I've never heard of "IE". That looks like a pretty important question. They placed the mix label directly over the original can label. Who knows what pertinent info that's covering up.
maybe the E in "IE" refers to enamel. If that were the case, it's been my experience that enamel has a hard "shell" with a soft underneath. If that is the case, then yeah, it wouldn't last long if it were wet sanded and buffed.
 
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rustycowll69 said:
I've never heard of "IE". That looks like a pretty important question. They placed the mix label directly over the original can label. Who knows what pertinent info that's covering up.
maybe the E in "IE" refers to enamel. If that were the case, it's been my experience that enamel has a hard "shell" with a soft underneath. If that is the case, then yeah, it wouldn't last long if it were wet sanded and buffed.
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On the web site it showed the following:

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Ok so i looked it up and yes it is a single stage enamel that gets reduced but not catalyzed. u definitely do not want to buff that. U will have major issues. Thats basically a tractor type paint. Spray and go. The only 2 options i see are strip it or if by some miracle u can try 2 lightly sand and cover it w epoxy sealer and see if it takes. Then spray your new paint. But this is a total gamble and no guarantee it will last
 
So, given the very spirit of why I shared and sought advise, I don’t want to mask todays problem just to create more work down the road. So I am thinking I take this as a lesson learned, and “it looked good before, but will look really good next time” and move on.

That said, what is the best way to get it peeled back down to the appropriate level and start over? There’s no way I can strip every nook and cranny like it should be, not by hand. I don’t see anyway other than blasting it. But, I don’t want warping problems either. Best way to go at getting it off?
 
U could try chemical stripping but it makes a huge mess and if not thoroughly cleaned afterwards it can cause issue . I sandblasted my whole car. No warping. u just have 2 b patient and take ur time.

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I am not at all opposed to blasting the car. In fact I actually think this IS the right way to do if I want the results I mentioned. I just would like the input from others who have been successful doing it.

What media did you use? Grit/grade? What equipment did you use and at what pressure did you run? Are you safe “er” if you blast at a steep angle, say 35 degrees or better?

Again, got all the confidence in doing it and being cautious, but would just welcome any and all insight in making it a success.

It is kind of funny though. I actually tried to bargain my way out of buying this car. And then I find myself here, scrutinizing the work I’m doing on it, ahead of the Hemi drop in. But, I have grown very fond of the car and it has rapidly become a labor of love for me. That said, should be pretty nice when I get it complete.

All feedback and suggestions welcome!
 
Chemical strip it if still available in your area, messy but will get the job done with no panel warpage.'
Tip
Apply chemical stripper with a paint brush, cover with painters plastic, let set a few hrs, and scrape off with a plastic body putty squeeqe.
Do this outside, the vapors will harm you in a enclosed area, wear a mask and rubber gloves.
Air craft stripper is nasty stuff, rinse with water to naturalize.

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I have a friend who owns an industrial sandblaster. We used a product the local power plant sells off cheap. I think it was black magic or black beauty. Ive used silica also. U just dont want tk gwt super close and get the metal hot. I Literally had the entire car done in about 3 hrs on my rotisserie
 
I have cleared directly over (after full cure and scuff as mentioned prior) Acrylic Enamel with great and long lasting success but I don’t know how those products work in the real world so... Your answers about the paint are already above but I will give my 2 cents on stripping it off.

As mentioned above, I would blast it myself or have it blasted.
Most of what I use is either Soda or plastic media. (Won’t warp but take special equipment)
Recently I have had a couple of cars done with No-Dust mobile blasting. (They come to you!) It’s really the best of the best aside from having the entire car dipped which I really prefer for a full restoration. (by a reputable shop that can dip enter car)
DIY is definitely cheapest, I don’t blast large flat areas with sand style media unless there is pitting, those areas definitely get blasted (you will warp flat non braced sheetmetal very quickly and easily) although I definitely do blast the back sides of the doors, fenders, trunk, jambs, engine comp etc etc....
Then after it is VERY CLEAN get a good coat of etching primer (like PPG’s DP line) on it and that will be your perfect base to start with and work on top of.

Just be careful and take your time and start by testing in places that won’t matter too much, (or on junk!) adjust your pressure and flow rate and keep pressure under 100psi. (I run 65-85psi with high volume depending on media)

Good luck!
 
@lenky1, I have heard rave reviews about Black Beauty. This was what stuck in my mind to use so, good to hear the feedback from someone who has used it before.

@mopower76, I have heard rumors of running the PSI to as little as 35. Speculating here, but safe to assume you should start low pressure and adjust up only as needed, but don’t exceed 75 - 100? Guessing the lower the pressure, the lower the friction, thus the lower the heat, and ultimately the lower the “chances” are of warping?
 
I have no complaints from when i did mine. Plus afterwards i swept it up and used it as oil dry lol. Hope we helped you some and gl
 
@mopower76, I have heard rumors of running the PSI to as little as 35. Speculating here, but safe to assume you should start low pressure and adjust up only as needed, but don’t exceed 75 - 100? Guessing the lower the pressure, the lower the friction, thus the lower the heat, and ultimately the lower the “chances” are of warping?[/QUOTE]

It’s going to really depend on your output of the compressor you have.
It’s trial and error, a good thing to do is consult with the media blast manufacturer.
Let them know what your compressor specs are and what media you are using and they can help give you a baseline of where to start.

This is why I’m suggesting doing some testing on some old junk to get a feel and get dialed in.
Working correctly you will remove easier with less waste.
I suggest also using as big a tarp as you can get so you can collect and reuse (sifted of course) the media on the tarp.
Good luck
 
Media blasting an entire car takes a big cfm compressor. Before you buy/rent blaster, see what cfm recommendation for the unit. Most shop compressors are only adequate for blast cabinet.
 
I'm blasting my current project to bare metal with #70 sand. The owner got off to a bad start with the wrong products. Now I will shoot everything with epoxy primer and body work and prime it until it is straight enough for color.
 
DesertRat said:
I'm blasting my current project to bare metal with #70 sand. The owner got off to a bad start with the wrong products. Now I will shoot everything with epoxy primer and body work and prime it until it is straight enough for color.
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What kind of equipment are you using?
 
mopower76 said:
@mopower76, I have heard rumors of running the PSI to as little as 35. Speculating here, but safe to assume you should start low pressure and adjust up only as needed, but don’t exceed 75 - 100? Guessing the lower the pressure, the lower the friction, thus the lower the heat, and ultimately the lower the “chances” are of warping?
Click to expand...

It’s going to really depend on your output of the compressor you have.
It’s trial and error, a good thing to do is consult with the media blast manufacturer.
Let them know what your compressor specs are and what media you are using and they can help give you a baseline of where to start.

This is why I’m suggesting doing some testing on some old junk to get a feel and get dialed in.
Working correctly you will remove easier with less waste.
I suggest also using as big a tarp as you can get so you can collect and reuse (sifted of course) the media on the tarp.
Good luck[/QUOTE]

So I have several options on a compressor. I’ve got small pancake up to tow behind we use for driving fence post. With the available range in mind, is it a blasting pod that you need, and can it be any blasting pot? I see these as small as 15 gallon from Harbor freight, on up to ***. What is a starting point for looking at with regard to the blast equipment it’s self?
 
@Ronald C. I would chemically strip it. It's gonna be super cheap and it will get the job done, for what you need. You should be able to go back to using Nason, just make sure they are selling you base coat/clear coat.

The primer you used the first time should be fine for the new paint also.

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The sky is the limit. HF equipment will work for a while but you will probably spend as much time keeping it going as you will blasting.
I use a Sullair 375 and I have a couple different Clemco pots for using multiple media’s.

I started out with an ALC pot running off of my shop Quincy 80gal 17.2CFM compressor and it did the job.

You have access to a great high CFM Diesel compressor, that’s the only way to go. Just keep pressure down.

I’m sure more have experience with other equipment.
 
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