Has anyone tried the Borgeson PS Box??

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harrisonm

harrisonm

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My 69 Barracuda's PS is a little sloppy. By that I mean I can move the steering wheel 20 degrees or so left or right without moving the car much. That is what I mean by sloppy. I have done just about everything. The PS box and PS pump were both replaced with rebuilt units, The entire front end was rebuilt with a kit from PST, and I have followed instructions on several links and adjusted the screw and locking nut on the PS box. I have heard people say that Mopar PS was never all that great. I kind of disagree with that. I had a 70 Charger and a 72 Charger (both 318 PS, PB, AC cars) and the steering was never this sloppy on them. I am seriously considering this PS box. I just wondered if anyone has bought one.

P/S Conversion 62-82 Mopar 1-1/4" Sector Shaft
 
That box came on my 99 GMC Sierra 4x4 that I put 350,000 miles on and it was still going strong and no leaks when I sold it
 
They work like magic, i have one on my ebody and one on the dart as well.. Peter @GMachineDartGT is the man who can help get you going!
 
I also bought one from Peter, seems to work pretty well, even though my rr with a Firm Feel #3 box gives more feedback it seems. However, with that said, my alignment shop set my caster at 7 degrees positive! They said you can’t have enough trail. I rebuilt the front end myself, adding tubular UCAs, which allows you to gain back caster when the car is lowered I’ve read. My Dart sits pretty near stock height. I’m bringing it back Tuesday to have less caster. I saw on a thread a while ago here showing a chart called Skosh I think, saying I think max of 3.5 degrees for hi-po street driving. Any and all feedback is much appreciated! I’d love to have a convincing argument for less caster.
 
SplangJ said:
I also bought one from Peter, seems to work pretty well, even though my rr with a Firm Feel #3 box gives more feedback it seems. However, with that said, my alignment shop set my caster at 7 degrees positive! They said you can’t have enough trail. I rebuilt the front end myself, adding tubular UCAs, which allows you to gain back caster when the car is lowered I’ve read. My Dart sits pretty near stock height. I’m bringing it back Tuesday to have less caster. I saw on a thread a while ago here showing a chart called Skosh I think, saying I think max of 3.5 degrees for hi-po street driving. Any and all feedback is much appreciated! I’d love to have a convincing argument for less caster.
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7 degrees? Damn that's alot. Most say the chart is very conservative. 4-5 degrees is what most like.
 
SplangJ said:
I also bought one from Peter, seems to work pretty well, even though my rr with a Firm Feel #3 box gives more feedback it seems. However, with that said, my alignment shop set my caster at 7 degrees positive! They said you can’t have enough trail. I rebuilt the front end myself, adding tubular UCAs, which allows you to gain back caster when the car is lowered I’ve read. My Dart sits pretty near stock height. I’m bringing it back Tuesday to have less caster. I saw on a thread a while ago here showing a chart called Skosh I think, saying I think max of 3.5 degrees for hi-po street driving. Any and all feedback is much appreciated! I’d love to have a convincing argument for less caster.
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I’ve experimented on the track with extra caster. The more caster, the more jacking of the inside wheel turns which creates an unsettling feeling. This depends on a couple factors. 3-4 is a pretty good place.
 
You replaced the box now....with what? Parts-store reman or a Mopar-vendor built unit?

If it's parts-store, it's probably crap.

That said, I bring it up because you need to diagnose the wander before you throw parts at it, and it could be something else entirely if you replaced the box with a quality piece. I used Firm Feel for mine and honestly can't imagine how the Borgeson box could be any better. Mopar PS was actually upper-tier back in the day, although a bit overboosted.

Now, will the Borgeson box let me run power steering on a big block A-body?
 
I did a bunch of research on rebuilt power steering boxes. Below is a brief summary.

One of the issues with the rebuilt boxes from places like oreilly or Napa is that they just replace seals & soft parts and put them back together. The gear sets wear the most in the center position, because that is where they spend most of the time. That means that you can’t adjust the play to get rid of the slop because it will bind on the rest of the travel. Since they are rebuilding them from used cores, you get what you get. If you get one where the gears are in good shape, you win. If not you are right back where you started. Total crapshoot.

If you buy one from Steer & Gear or Firm Feel you will get a quality product, but costs a lot of $$.

Borgeson has mixed reviews and is very expensive.

I rebuilt my front end & discovered my steering box mounting screws were loose. Now mine works fairly well since I did the power down mod on the pump.

My opinions based on research only, as I didn’t pull the trigger on a new box. Likely others have differing views.
 
You guys are killing me with your ideas about caster, You have no clue. the more you increase caster the lower the steering arm goes, that will make a major change in your bump steer. So if you can lower your car to the ground it might work, blah blah blah. Do some research.
 
I have alot of play at the gear box input shaft. I can rock it back and forth. When I do rock it the shaft moves in & out. It's a rebuild from Rockauto.com, I look like a drunk driver when doing 50 mph +. I am also thinking about getting a Borgeson or Firm feel.
 
N1ce2k1llu said:
I have alot of play at the gear box input shaft. I can rock it back and forth. When I do rock it the shaft moves in & out. It's a rebuild from Rockauto.com, I look like a drunk driver when doing 50 mph +. I am also thinking about getting a Borgeson or Firm feel.
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I sell my Borgeson bolt in kits. I’ve done so for 6 years now with excellent success. It’s the most costly of your options, but it’s the best, by far. Precise modern steering with a slightly faster ratio and a 15 lb weight savings.
 
Best investment I’ve ever made besides my 4 wheel disc brakes.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
I sell my Borgeson bolt in kits. I’ve done so for 6 years now with excellent success. It’s the most costly of your options, but it’s the best, by far. Precise modern steering with a slightly faster ratio and a 15 lb weight savings.
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You got input on how they work with exhaust on big block A bodies? I'd love to have some nice exhaust on a PS BB car, but since I ain't never built one, I'm not up to date on the issues.
 
jos51700 said:
You got input on how they work with exhaust on big block A bodies? I'd love to have some nice exhaust on a PS BB car, but since I ain't never built one, I'm not up to date on the issues.
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It depends on the type of exhaust. Need more details please.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
It depends on the type of exhaust. Need more details please.
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The car is far from built. I'd probably run try-y's just for fit and availability, but the concept is factory-stock looking so if manifolds that make decent power exist....
 
jos51700 said:
The car is far from built. I'd probably run try-y's just for fit and availability, but the concept is factory-stock looking so if manifolds that make decent power exist....
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Ok. The things I’ve seen that can cause fit problems in BB A’s are usually large tube headers, over 2” and conversion mounts that may alter the placement of the engine.
It’s tight regardless. The try Ys are very close to the manifolds in terms of real estate. That is your best bet.
 
I just finished an install on my 70 Dart. I used Peter's coupler (steep shipping charge IMO) and bought the box from Summit (free shipping and quick here in Texas). As I posted elsewhere, night and day improvement to a "new" factory system.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
Ok. The things I’ve seen that can cause fit problems in BB A’s are usually large tube headers, over 2” and conversion mounts that may alter the placement of the engine.
It’s tight regardless. The try Ys are very close to the manifolds in terms of real estate. That is your best bet.
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Will they fit with the Borgeson box, or is it at least small enough that it won't matter?
 
brian6pac said:
You guys are killing me with your ideas about caster, You have no clue. the more you increase caster the lower the steering arm goes, that will make a major change in your bump steer. So if you can lower your car to the ground it might work, blah blah blah. Do some research.
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Why the DISAGREE ?
Because you come across as a jerk. You can get your point across without making people feel stupid.
 
Kern Dog said:
Why the DISAGREE ?
Because you come across as a jerk. You can get your point across without making people feel stupid.
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Maybe you could read a book or just do a little research, It's not that hard. It seems that most are just guessing and giving bad advise on something that can cause your car to handle very badly at high speed.
 
Yeah, maybe...BUT your response was rude without even trying to be funny.
When I am a smart ***, I try to mix in some sarcasm to soften the blow. You just came across as mean spirited and condescending.
You are telling me nothing new. I'm fully aware of the effects of caster, camber, toe and SAI. For the purposes of my own interests, I don't feel the need to "Read a book" as you suggest. Maybe you should consider a book by Dale Carnegie...."How to win friends and influence people". Maybe "The Art of the Deal" by Donald Trump.
Again, you can get your point across without insulting people.
Your words...."just guessing and giving bad advise "....
Bad advise? Uhh, how about bad adVICE. If you are going to be critical of others, make sure your words are in proper context before you reply.
 
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