Tried my hand at paint today...

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440seven

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overall went pretty good. Had two runs that I took care of. Also got the new brakes buttoned up. I’ve been busting it getting ready for October cruisin the Coast. A few more things to shore up and I’ll be able to take her out for a shake down again.
 
so...how hard was it not to heap it on too thick? I bet about 6 light coats would get you about perfect, but I heard one light one to get it tacky and then you can lay on a heavier coat? That was from my model years using a Badger canned air brush. Im about ready to do something with my SC400, that old girl is getting terrible cancer on every panel 'cept the hood and the tail that was recently repainted. Thinking about putting a black semigloss wrap on the top and keeping the low burgundy paint if I could get a nice line on the transition, its too smooth to use a ridge.
 
That looks really nice! I’m not sure I’d even tackle a paint job.
 
Great job.:) Hey for the small runs look up PAINT NIB before you polish it or clearcoat.
 
Makes me happy to see your cool paint, I have painted my last couple myself and finally decided to pay for a professional job. Yep I have now missed at least 3 promised completion dates and still don't have the Demon back yet. I am going back to painting them myself and I am going to blame you for it! Hah! Nice work guy.
 
Looks great.
Bought me a fresh air respirator, going to build a booth in my storage building and revisit the painting thing too.
 
Thanks guys. I tend to jump in head first and worry later. I knew I’d be painting it myself as my budget never allowed for it. More function over form.
This the relatively cheap hot rod flatz “tunnel ram grey metallic”.
@pishta I learned when doing my engine bay I had to spray a certain a thickness or it end up a little dry/rough feeling. So i tried to lay it just thick enough that it didn’t sag or run. Which honestly was kinda tough with regular shop compressor. I bought the Eastwood gun that could shoot with lower pressure.
It’s not a showstopper, but it’s mine!
 
Glad to see someone tackle a paint job that has never really done it before.
You did good and each time you paint something you get better at it.
 
Thanks guys. I tend to jump in head first and worry later. I knew I’d be painting it myself as my budget never allowed for it. More function over form.
This the relatively cheap hot rod flatz “tunnel ram grey metallic”.
@pishta I learned when doing my engine bay I had to spray a certain a thickness or it end up a little dry/rough feeling. So i tried to lay it just thick enough that it didn’t sag or run. Which honestly was kinda tough with regular shop compressor. I bought the Eastwood gun that could shoot with lower pressure.
It’s not a showstopper, but it’s mine!

Right on man. I'm thinking about doing the same myself. Can you give us any details on your "paint booth"?
 
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Right on man. I'm thinking about doing the same myself. Can you give us any details on your "paint booth"?

LOL @ “paint booth”. Bud this is just your run of the mill 2 car garage I cover what I didn’t want overspray on and I took my time taping. The biggest thing was for months I keep the car and floor as dust free as I could. After final sanding I cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned some more. More than I care to ever do again.

So after I corrected the first two runs I created more problems. The paint seemed to go on more splotchy so I’ve got to figure out how to now correct that or leave it alone. I’m tempted to say screw it. This ain’t ever going to be a show car anyhow, but I do want it to be at least decent and presentable.

Oh well on to next issues. It seems my 14” air cleaner won’t clear the hood. Even with a pretty big drop base. Anybody got suggestions? Maybe a smaller filter assembly. 12” or 10”? It’s a 440 with RPM intake.
 
Right on man. I'm thinking about doing the same myself. Can you give us any details on your "paint booth"?
Hey ESP47 I can give you my 2 cents on painting been doing it for many years and hope I'm not boring you but here goes. Best to paint the car in sections take the doors off fenders and so on and paint one piece at a time so the over spray is at a minimum this will take more time but better in the long run. The worst thing you can do in a shop without a paint booth is clean it and blow all the dust out just before you paint. Best to clean everything and wait at least a day so the dust settles then wet the floor down and make sure you the painter is clean of dust mostly like if you have a dog don't get around it so it's hair is all over you before you paint. Keep everyone out of the shop as you paint and make sure you have good lighting.
The worst thing people do is try to put the paint on to fast read the paint instructions and give it dry time in between coats. Base you can wait about 24 hours between coats without re-sanding.
The biggest mistake people do is put the clear coat on over the base paint way to soon, it might take 6 months but will see little bubbles all over your nice paint job, that's because the base paint was not dry enough and the clear trapped the base solvent in and the only way for it to come out is break through the clear coat.
Paint is expensive as you know and sure hate to see you waist money and your labor.
Again just my 2 cents.
 
Is that a factory color or something aftermarket/custom? Kinda looks like JA5 Silver Frost. Looks good from here. :thumbsup:
 
how long you wait for base to dry before clear coating? I guess I heard both: Paint needs to still be curing as to 'link' with the clear, or in your description needs to be completely degassed (dry?) before clearing? If it needs to be dry, is that why I have clear coat potato chips growing on my repainted B2000? no base color in them, just 'dead skin'.
 
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LOL @ “paint booth”. Bud this is just your run of the mill 2 car garage I cover what I didn’t want overspray on and I took my time taping. The biggest thing was for months I keep the car and floor as dust free as I could. After final sanding I cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned some more. More than I care to ever do again.

So after I corrected the first two runs I created more problems. The paint seemed to go on more splotchy so I’ve got to figure out how to now correct that or leave it alone. I’m tempted to say screw it. This ain’t ever going to be a show car anyhow, but I do want it to be at least decent and presentable.

Oh well on to next issues. It seems my 14” air cleaner won’t clear the hood. Even with a pretty big drop base. Anybody got suggestions? Maybe a smaller filter assembly. 12” or 10”? It’s a 440 with RPM intake.

I had a feeling, which is why I put paint booth in quotes lol. I'm in the same boat as you are so this just gives me more confidence in my attempt that'll be coming up here within the next year. You see professional guys talking online about having to set up a booth perfectly and then you see pictures of guys who just painted in a clean garage and it looks good enough for 99% of us.

Hey ESP47 I can give you my 2 cents on painting been doing it for many years and hope I'm not boring you but here goes. Best to paint the car in sections take the doors off fenders and so on and paint one piece at a time so the over spray is at a minimum this will take more time but better in the long run. The worst thing you can do in a shop without a paint booth is clean it and blow all the dust out just before you paint. Best to clean everything and wait at least a day so the dust settles then wet the floor down and make sure you the painter is clean of dust mostly like if you have a dog don't get around it so it's hair is all over you before you paint. Keep everyone out of the shop as you paint and make sure you have good lighting.
The worst thing people do is try to put the paint on to fast read the paint instructions and give it dry time in between coats. Base you can wait about 24 hours between coats without re-sanding.
The biggest mistake people do is put the clear coat on over the base paint way to soon, it might take 6 months but will see little bubbles all over your nice paint job, that's because the base paint was not dry enough and the clear trapped the base solvent in and the only way for it to come out is break through the clear coat.
Paint is expensive as you know and sure hate to see you waist money and your labor.
Again just my 2 cents.

I'm never bored getting good advice. I appreciate it Fred. I'm still in the epoxy primering stage. Actually taking my hood down to bare metal as we speak. I wanted metallic but chose against it since I want to paint it myself and do it in pieces like you advised. Sounds like it's more forgiving that way and if I mess up, at least I'm just fixing one panel and not the whole shebang.
 
I had a feeling, which is why I put paint booth in quotes lol. I'm in the same boat as you are so this just gives me more confidence in my attempt that'll be coming up here within the next year. You see professional guys talking online about having to set up a booth perfectly and then you see pictures of guys who just painted in a clean garage and it looks good enough for 99% of us.



I'm never bored getting good advice. I appreciate it Fred. I'm still in the epoxy primering stage. Actually taking my hood down to bare metal as we speak. I wanted metallic but chose against it since I want to paint it myself and do it in pieces like you advised. Sounds like it's more forgiving that way and if I mess up, at least I'm just fixing one panel and not the whole shebang.
Don't be to afraid of painting metallic or pearls as long as it's not a tri coat you'll do fine on painting it one piece at a time if your using base clear.
 
how long you wait for base to dry before clear coating? I guess I heard both: Paint needs to still be curing as to 'link' with the clear, or in your description needs to be completely degassed (dry?) before clearing? If it needs to be dry, is that why I have clear coat potato chips growing on my repainted B2000? no base color in them, just 'dead skin'.
Not sure why you had a problem on your B2000 I have never had a problem in all the years I painted with clear peeling off. And I can say that on at least some that I have painted not all, and many were semi's that are never inside always left out in the weather and the paint would fade but no pealing.
 
Looking good! Your giving me confidence to do it myself. I'm leaning towards a hotrod flats blue color also.
 
You did way, WAY better than I could have! Good job!
Wow! I wish I had your skill level with a spray van! I attempted to paint my old Jeep Cherokee one time. It didn't turn out too well. Ended up at Maaco while I tried to explain what the hell I did LOL! Nicely done dude .
 
how long you wait for base to dry before clear coating? I guess I heard both: Paint needs to still be curing as to 'link' with the clear, or in your description needs to be completely degassed (dry?) before clearing? If it needs to be dry, is that why I have clear coat potato chips growing on my repainted B2000? no base color in them, just 'dead skin'.

I'm no expert, but I am also in the boat of "it's my first time, painting" I've done a ton of reading, and watched the whole paint ucation series from Eastwood, he goes into a lot of detail from air compressor lines to block sanding. My car has been stripped to bare metal, two coats of epoxy primer, and then block sanded twice, I'm in the final stages of blocking now.

From what I have read about base is you should wait at least 24 hours, before clear. I waited, 3 days when I did my door jams ( it's just the way it worked out).

I know most people don't do it this way, but I went ahead and painted the engine bay door jambs and trunk, first. The color is plum crazy Pearl, SPI BLACK, and SPI universal clear. Pics aren't in any kind of order.

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