In your world a lighter flywheel is usually better, i'm saying a lighter flywheel isn't always better. Please let me know what part of my post isn't factual.
Grant
In what world is more FW weight better? I damn sure isn't a race car. Maybe a semi truck. Maybe a 5000 pound, low HP car that never sees anything above 3500 RPM. Maybe.
There isn't one, not ONE competent clutch guy, transmission guy, chassis guy, tire guy, shock guy or just general knowledge guy who will tell you adding rotational inertia is a good thing. It breaks parts. It's even harder to manage, regardless of method you chose to do it.
Quite frankly, it's ******* STUPID to tell guys who are chassis and tire limited to add FW weight. You either deal with it by taking clutch out of it, or changing the timer on the CT.
Other than you, I can think of no one I know of who says add FW weight. Not one. To even argue the point is ridiculous. I would mention the Pro Stock and Comp guys, but then I'd hear the "I'm not racing Pro Stock" nonsense I always hear. The clutch I run today WAS Pro Stock in the 1980's. This isn't new. So I'll say I don't know a single, solitary guy running Stock or Super Stock with sticks who use heavy flywheel. Not one. Not a single one. Those guys can run what they want. The exception is those classes (some of which you have outlined above) who by rules have to run a clutch that isn't adjustable. That's it.
I'll tell you Grant, I'd send people your way if you didn't say crazy crap like this. I know there are guys out there, like Jpar who either don't want to deal with an adjustable clutch, or guys who can't afford one, and I'd send them you way. But you have issues like FW weight I just can't get around. And, telling people you have to adjust the clutch for the street and the track. You don't. I didn't have an adjustable pressure plate for years. I never ran over 1000 pounds of base load (most of the time I was at between 600-700), didn't use counter weight and left at 7-7500 with 14x32 tires and on,y drove through the clutch once. And that was my bad in a burn out.
We have to stop, as a group telling people dumb things. I've been a stick guy since I was a kid. There aren't many left, just because of dumb advice and wrong headed thinking. Junk clutches kill parts. Junk clutches with heavy flyweels kills parts faster and have slower time slips.
Hopefully, for the open minded stick guys out there, they can learn something from this thread. Here what they SHOULD learn.
You can be competitive with a stick.
A junk clutch is a junk clutch.
Flywheel weight is bad.
You need to control your clutch lock up.
If you aren't willing to learn how to tune a clutch, or can't afford a good one, then the Clutch Tamer is about the only option you have, other than going slow, beating the car to death and killing parts.
There is zero logic in using a sintered iron disc and a Clutch Tamer. If you are going to use a sintered iron disc, just pay the extra money for the adjustable pressure plate.
You should be using an aluminum flywheel either way.
kind of like the partial ring of a bell. I already like the clicking Action Sound of the V gate shifter as I go through the gears...
