Parts Sourcing for Front Suspension Rebuild

Best Poly Suspension Rebuild Kit


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dusterman440

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I'm getting ready to swap in my front disc setup that came off a 73' duster into my 67' Valiant, however, the setup needs freshened up first. I'm looking for peoples experiences with bushings/balljoints/tie rods with the various brands: PST, PerformanceOnline, etc... Anyone notice a quality difference in the kits? Looking to go with a polyurethane style. Thanks in advance!
 
Prothane insert bushings. Used em on 2 different Chevy truck rebuilds, and have em for both cudas when time comes for em.

With these you just melt and burn the rubber out, and leave and retain the outer shells pressed into the upper and lower arms. The new bushings snap in place by hand, and a new metal inner tube sleeve is greased up and pressed into the centers. easy peasy. Prothane makes mopar kits for rear leaf springs and for the barrel type motor and trans mounts as well. They come in red, and black. I bought all of my prothane kits from Summit racing. Best of all the prices wont break the bank.
 
I make delrin lower control arm bushings. Last a long time, precise movement and quiet. I’m the only one making them. I also sell torsion bar, shocks and everything else.
 
I'm getting ready to swap in my front disc setup that came off a 73' duster into my 67' Valiant, however, the setup needs freshened up first. I'm looking for peoples experiences with bushings/balljoints/tie rods with the various brands: PST, PerformanceOnline, etc... Anyone notice a quality difference in the kits? Looking to go with a polyurethane style. Thanks in advance!
I have no preference in manufacturer but I'm just gonna say this, from experience, just buy a complete, entirely complete, front rebuild kit. I tried piecing one together to save money, ended up forgetting a couple parts, more than once, so by the time I paid shipping, I'd been money ahead to have just bought the whole kit.
 
I have no preference in manufacturer but I'm just gonna say this, from experience, just buy a complete, entirely complete, front rebuild kit. I tried piecing one together to save money, ended up forgetting a couple parts, more than once, so by the time I paid shipping, I'd been money ahead to have just bought the whole kit.

Hate to disagree, but I disagree.

Problem is that he's putting a '73+ disk set up on a '67. Sure, most of the stuff is the same, but if he buys a kit he will no doubt get something that isn't right for his car. I piece together all of my rebuilds. Part of that is all of my cars are modified with aftermarket parts, so there's no "kit" that covers everything anyway and usually I don't need a full kit because I've installed parts that came with new bushings or ball joint already installed. The other is, I know what I'm getting. Most of those kits don't specify the source or manufacturer of their parts. Some of them are good, some of them are not. If I put together my own kit, I know what manufacturer made each piece.

Moog quality has gone straight down the tubes lately. Their quality control has gotten pretty hit and miss. POL sells a bunch of cheap knock off type stuff, there's no way I'd use their kit. PST typically sources decent brands, but again, you won't know the manufacturers until you get the kit. And there's a decent chance if you order a 73+ kit you'll be paying for some parts that may not work for you.

I have had good luck with the Proforged brand recently for ball joints, the tolerances on the ones I've used were much better than anything I've gotten from Moog lately. Looks like they're also making tie rod ends and pitman and idler arms too, if their quality matches their ball joints I'd have no issue using those.

I've used Prothane poly LCA bushings in the past with greaseable LCA pins from Firm Feel. They held up quite well, and using those parts there's no need to pull any LCA bushing shells as long as the poly bushing fits tightly into the original outer shell. The prothane LCA bushings are $12. The greaseable pins from FFI are $125, but IMO they're worth it especially with poly bushings. Proforged makes a very nice set of poly LCA bushings, but they come with the outer shells so they require pulling the old shells. I use GMachineDartGT's (Bergman Autocraft) Delrin LCA bushings now. They're awesome. But they replace the outer shells, so, you do have to remove the LCA shells to install them. They're great, high quality parts, but they're not exactly in the "budget rebuild" category.

For upper control arm bushings, if you have the stock UCA's you want a set of Moog K7103 offset bushings. They'll let you get more positive caster, so you can actually run decent alignment numbers. Even if you go poly everywhere else, I'd use those bushings as Moog is the only one making offset UCA bushings that I'm aware of. Everything else out there is non-offset. I wish Moog wasn't the only source for them, but they are, and for stock UCA's they're a must have IMO.

And now you start to see why I don't buy kits. There isn't a kit out there that has the best of everything. Or that takes into account different model year parts being used on the same car. Or an assortment of aftermarket parts. It's more labor on the front end to find and order everything yourself, and it's usually not cheaper. But getting the right parts, not getting stuff you don't need, and knowing that you got the quality of parts that you wanted is important and worth the effort.
 
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Do not use poly parts. they are not stable in the lowers and my struts went to powder on the first foot brake launch. You can see the red pieces come out from under the car . I also put them in my track bar on my cummins truck at 100k they lasted about 2 months. I put new rubber in. I am at over 250k on that truck now and still tight.
 
I tried poly bushings on my daily driver 68 Barracuda in Detroit and they were shot in three years...

I went back to rubber bushings after that and they hold up better on street cars... More durable...
 
I have no preference in manufacturer but I'm just gonna say this, from experience, just buy a complete, entirely complete, front rebuild kit. I tried piecing one together to save money, ended up forgetting a couple parts, more than once, so by the time I paid shipping, I'd been money ahead to have just bought the whole kit.


Hate to disagree, but I disagree.

Problem is that he's putting a '73+ disk set up on a '67. Sure, most of the stuff is the same, but if he buys a kit he will no doubt get something that isn't right for his car. I piece together all of my rebuilds. Part of that is all of my cars are modified with aftermarket parts, so there's no "kit" that covers everything anyway and usually I don't need a full kit because I've installed parts that came with new bushings or ball joint already installed. The other is, I know what I'm getting. Most of those kits don't specify the source or manufacturer of their parts. Some of them are good, some of them are not. If I put together my own kit, I know what manufacturer made each piece.

Moog quality has gone straight down the tubes lately. Their quality control has gotten pretty hit and miss. POL sells a bunch of cheap knock off type stuff, there's no way I'd use their kit. PST typically sources decent brands, but again, you won't know the manufacturers until you get the kit. And there's a decent chance if you order a 73+ kit you'll be paying for some parts that may not work for you.

I have had good luck with the Proforged brand recently for ball joints, the tolerances on the ones I've used were much better than anything I've gotten from Moog lately. Looks like they're also making tie rod ends and pitman and idler arms too, if their quality matches their ball joints I'd have no issue using those.

I've used Prothane poly LCA bushings in the past with greaseable LCA pins from Firm Feel. They held up quite well, and using those parts there's no need to pull any LCA bushing shells as long as the poly bushing fits tightly into the original outer shell. The prothane LCA bushings are $12. The greaseable pins from FFI are $125, but IMO they're worth it especially with poly bushings. Proforged makes a very nice set of poly LCA bushings, but they come with the outer shells so they require pulling the old shells. I use GMachineDartGT's (Bergman Autocraft) Delrin LCA bushings now. They're awesome. But they replace the outer shells, so, you do have to remove the LCA shells to install them. They're great, high quality parts, but they're not exactly in the "budget rebuild" category.

For upper control arm bushings, if you have the stock UCA's you want a set of Moog K7103 offset bushings. They'll let you get more positive caster, so you can actually run decent alignment numbers. Even if you go poly everywhere else, I'd use those bushings as Moog is the only one making offset UCA bushings that I'm aware of. Everything else out there is non-offset. I wish Moog wasn't the only source for them, but they are, and for stock UCA's they're a must have IMO.

And now you start to see why I don't buy kits. There isn't a kit out there that has the best of everything. Or that takes into account different model year parts being used on the same car. Or an assortment of aftermarket parts. It's more labor on the front end to find and order everything yourself, and it's usually not cheaper. But getting the right parts, not getting stuff you don't need, and knowing that you got the quality of parts that you wanted is important and worth the effort.


But if you can get a complete kit where everything is correct for your car it is a good idea to buy from all at once from one source like dukeboy says....
 
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Do not use poly parts. they are not stable in the lowers and my struts went to powder on the first foot brake launch. You can see the red pieces come out from under the car . I also put them in my track bar on my cummins truck at 100k they lasted about 2 months. I put new rubber in. I am at over 250k on that truck now and still tight.

I tried poly bushings on my daily driver 68 Barracuda in Detroit and they were shot in three years...

I went back to rubber bushings after that and they hold up better on street cars... More durable...

I have used poly lower control arm bushings in my cars for tens of thousands of miles. When I replaced them with the Delrin bushings that are in my Duster now, the poly bushings looked brand new still. All of my sway bar bushings are poly, I've never had an issue with them at all.

Like everything else, they have to be properly installed and lubricated in order to function properly. At the LCA this is especially important, they MUST fit tightly into the bushing shell. It's almost a light press fit when they're right. And unlike rubber bushings, then need to be greased. In some locations they can be greased on install, but at the LCA even if they're well greased on install eventually they'll need to be re-lubricated. Which is why I use greaseable LCA pins.

You wouldn't throw I giant lumpy cam into an engine with stock valve springs. If you use aftermarket parts, you have to make sure your car is equipped to use them. Not just slap them in and hope for the best. Poly bushings are different than rubber, you can't treat them like rubber bushings. If you install and maintain them like poly bushings, they'll outlast rubber every time.

If a set of poly bushings failed in a couple of seasons, they were improperly installed. Period. I've installed dozens and dozens of poly bushings in multiple different vehicles, I've never had a failure. The poly LCA bushings I pulled out of my Duster after 10k miles looked identical to the day I installed them.
 
I have used poly lower control arm bushings in my cars for tens of thousands of miles. When I replaced them with the Delrin bushings that are in my Duster now, the poly bushings looked brand new still. All of my sway bar bushings are poly, I've never had an issue with them at all.

Like everything else, they have to be properly installed and lubricated in order to function properly. At the LCA this is especially important, they MUST fit tightly into the bushing shell. It's almost a light press fit when they're right. And unlike rubber bushings, then need to be greased. In some locations they can be greased on install, but at the LCA even if they're well greased on install eventually they'll need to be re-lubricated. Which is why I use greaseable LCA pins.

You wouldn't throw I giant lumpy cam into an engine with stock valve springs. If you use aftermarket parts, you have to make sure your car is equipped to use them. Not just slap them in and hope for the best. Poly bushings are different than rubber, you can't treat them like rubber bushings. If you install and maintain them like poly bushings, they'll outlast rubber every time.

If a set of poly bushings failed in a couple of seasons, they were improperly installed. Period. I've installed dozens and dozens of poly bushings in multiple different vehicles, I've never had a failure. The poly LCA bushings I pulled out of my Duster after 10k miles looked identical to the day I installed them.
I am going to the garage to work on the Duster . When I have time I will explain to you with pictures to prove how wrong you are. How can you disagree with something that happened in front of many at a track, The struts do not even have a metal sleeve molded in them to stop the K-member from shearing the male part off the slips through the k-member as the OEM do.. They are a over hyped pieces of junk. You will never admit that because you already waisted your money on them. Parts and labor. What is holding the lower from moving front to back. I know you will say the strut rod fastened to the outside of the arm. You really need to think abouth the function of the lower bushing. It is not only to stop side to side movement. And the greasable pins are another joke. I have done several in the past 30 years . I have seen the carnage with my own eyes.
 
I just got back to the house I didn't have time to dig all of the failed parts out . But here is One thing that the poly strut is missing. The rubber struts are a lot stronger when it comes to wear. Here is a picture of a replacement rubber strut half showing how the rubber wore over the years. A poly style just crumbles compared the the rubber but the rubber still does show wear. A poly style will split to pieces when under pressure from the strut rod. Put one in a vise and squash it then put a rubber one in the same vice.. That poly bushing will split apart like stepping on a tomato.

The second picture is of the correct heavy duty bushing. Notice it has a steel ring molded in it so the K member doesn't shear the part off from the sharp edge of the K-member.

Does your poly style have this steel sleeve in the strut bushing. I don't think so. The k-member shears the poly bushing off in no time at all. Then it moves up and down and side to side and you do not see that the part sticking through the K member is gone so you thing they are just fine.

Tomorrow I will show you that the lower arm bushings are even worse. You can not imagine how many cars that came here to have them removed and the pin with the grease fitting is a temporary fix to keep them lubed so they don't powder up as fast .And they are weaker with the hole drilled in them. They have you lube them so they don't wear. put them in without the lube and see how long they last.

If your car has them in put the car in gear with the brake on and look at the arm where it is on the pin with pressure from trying to go forward They are nice and tight to the pin in the k-member. Then put the car in reverse with your foot on the brake apply throttle. Watch it move away from the pin. Some move at least an inch.

When the factory bushings rip off the sleeves from improper install or age this is what happens. That is when they need replacing. This movement makes these cars wonder on uneven roads.

My son and I were working on a bearing for the arm for the Duster to get rid of the torsion bar. Without the bar in place with a ripped factory bushing or a lubed slip in poly bushing the arm would come right off of the pin We wer e working on this when the duster was wrecked we already put ends on the factory struts as per Ray Bartons advice . I guess he doesn't know either.

Strut rod bushings were the worse design by mopar. Replacing them with poly is adding fuel to the fire. You all do what you want. But the advice I am giving you is from so many cars we do. Not just one Car owned by one person.

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Some pictures of "Ray Barton's" Hemi Dart on the lift. Don't condemn peoples advice just because you wasted your money. If that is all you have is your own personal experience. Try something different first

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I am going to the garage to work on the Duster . When I have time I will explain to you with pictures to prove how wrong you are. How can you disagree with something that happened in front of many at a track, The struts do not even have a metal sleeve molded in them to stop the K-member from shearing the male part off the slips through the k-member as the OEM do.. They are a over hyped pieces of junk. You will never admit that because you already waisted your money on them. Parts and labor. What is holding the lower from moving front to back. I know you will say the strut rod fastened to the outside of the arm. You really need to think abouth the function of the lower bushing. It is not only to stop side to side movement. And the greasable pins are another joke. I have done several in the past 30 years . I have seen the carnage with my own eyes.
The torsion bar also keeps the arm from walking. A simple set screw on the t bar can be put in too
 
I messaged James at PST, told him what I wanted to do with my front-end rebuild plus disk brakes, and he made sure I got all the right parts. Everything went right together.
 
:wtf: do those pictures have to do with this thread?
I mentioned what we were doing to eliminate the bushings as on Bartons cars . The icons are so small I don't know what was included . The SS cars need to run all factory parts. You can modify them but they need to be factory.

I get called out all the time for suggestions I make. Pictures verify that I have tried it all . I missed the trial needle bearings in the arms pictures to use coil overs. But I am sure you wouldn't like more pictures of them. Do picture bother you. He asked for comments. I guess only things that you agree with are the best.

By the way . Look at the joints on ball joints most of them have plastic cups swedged in holding the ball not metal. Buy Moog separately . You will get a lot better parts. Those package deals you never know whats inside. Ah but who cares they are cheap and you get everything. It may take a while but you see they are cheap both ways. Cost and quality.
 
I'm getting ready to swap in my front disc setup that came off a 73' duster into my 67' Valiant, however, the setup needs freshened up first. I'm looking for peoples experiences with bushings/balljoints/tie rods with the various brands: PST, PerformanceOnline, etc... Anyone notice a quality difference in the kits? Looking to go with a polyurethane style. Thanks in advance!
I used poly bushings on the Demon. I have a 75 V-8 K-frame and disk brake set-up under the car. It allowed me to use a cop car steering box from a Diplomat and also BBP wheels. If you are using a late model front end on an early 3Gen car, be sure to use the steering box, pittman arm, idler arm and cross link from the later model car. You may also want to grab the rear axle assembly from a 73 disk brake car, for the BBP hubs, too.
 
I am going to the garage to work on the Duster . When I have time I will explain to you with pictures to prove how wrong you are. How can you disagree with something that happened in front of many at a track, The struts do not even have a metal sleeve molded in them to stop the K-member from shearing the male part off the slips through the k-member as the OEM do.. They are a over hyped pieces of junk. You will never admit that because you already waisted your money on them. Parts and labor. What is holding the lower from moving front to back. I know you will say the strut rod fastened to the outside of the arm. You really need to think abouth the function of the lower bushing. It is not only to stop side to side movement. And the greasable pins are another joke. I have done several in the past 30 years . I have seen the carnage with my own eyes.

I just got back to the house I didn't have time to dig all of the failed parts out . But here is One thing that the poly strut is missing. The rubber struts are a lot stronger when it comes to wear. Here is a picture of a replacement rubber strut half showing how the rubber wore over the years. A poly style just crumbles compared the the rubber but the rubber still does show wear. A poly style will split to pieces when under pressure from the strut rod. Put one in a vise and squash it then put a rubber one in the same vice.. That poly bushing will split apart like stepping on a tomato.

The second picture is of the correct heavy duty bushing. Notice it has a steel ring molded in it so the K member doesn't shear the part off from the sharp edge of the K-member.

Does your poly style have this steel sleeve in the strut bushing. I don't think so. The k-member shears the poly bushing off in no time at all. Then it moves up and down and side to side and you do not see that the part sticking through the K member is gone so you thing they are just fine.

Tomorrow I will show you that the lower arm bushings are even worse. You can not imagine how many cars that came here to have them removed and the pin with the grease fitting is a temporary fix to keep them lubed so they don't powder up as fast .And they are weaker with the hole drilled in them. They have you lube them so they don't wear. put them in without the lube and see how long they last.

If your car has them in put the car in gear with the brake on and look at the arm where it is on the pin with pressure from trying to go forward They are nice and tight to the pin in the k-member. Then put the car in reverse with your foot on the brake apply throttle. Watch it move away from the pin. Some move at least an inch.

When the factory bushings rip off the sleeves from improper install or age this is what happens. That is when they need replacing. This movement makes these cars wonder on uneven roads.

My son and I were working on a bearing for the arm for the Duster to get rid of the torsion bar. Without the bar in place with a ripped factory bushing or a lubed slip in poly bushing the arm would come right off of the pin We wer e working on this when the duster was wrecked we already put ends on the factory struts as per Ray Bartons advice . I guess he doesn't know either.

Strut rod bushings were the worse design by mopar. Replacing them with poly is adding fuel to the fire. You all do what you want. But the advice I am giving you is from so many cars we do. Not just one Car owned by one person.

First, I don't use poly strut rod bushings. I don't use any strut rod bushings AT ALL. I use adjustable strut rods on all of my cars, and between my Challenger and my Duster that's over 100k miles using adjustable strut rods. No issues. Not sure why you thought I was talking about strut rod bushings, because I never mentioned them at all. Another reason why I wouldn't buy a suspension rebuild kit, more bushings I don't need.

I know perfectly well the function of the LCA bushing. And if you think that a friction fit rubber bushing is keeping the control arm from moving back, I suggest that perhaps you should think about the how strong rubber is under shear. Because if you think the rubber bushing is what keeps the LCA from moving back off the pin you have a fundamental misunderstanding of how that bushing works. On that note, you also clearly don't understand that the poly bushing works differently than a rubber bushing, even when used in the same location. Poly bushings MUST be lubricated. Yes, if you don't lubricate them they will fail. You wouldn't drain the oil out of your engine, seize it up, and then blame the engine would you? Same difference. Obviously you don't understand the difference in materials, you can't treat a poly bushing like a rubber bushing. Which probably explains why your bushings failed. Improper installation and maintenance.

As for the greaseable LCA pivot pins, again, I've got over 100k miles on them between my Challenger and my Duster. I'd take a brand new greaseable pin over some beat down 50 year old stock pin every day. Firm Feel has been making great parts for decades, and their greaseable pins are top notch.

Some pictures of "Ray Barton's" Hemi Dart on the lift. Don't condemn peoples advice just because you wasted your money. If that is all you have is your own personal experience. Try something different first

I didn't waste my money, I haven't had a single poly bushing that I've installed fail. Not one. I've used poly bushings on modern cars, trucks, and my Mopars. Notice that's plural, I have more than one Mopar. Heck, there's a set of poly C-bushings on the radius arms on my '71 F100, they've been there for over 10 years and I didn't even install them. They work great.

I do seem to recall one of us totaled a very nice Duster because of poor suspension maintenance. I also recall that someone wasn't me.
:wtf: do those pictures have to do with this thread?

Absolutely nothing. They show nothing of significance or relevance for this thread at all. He just thinks if he name drops enough and puts up some pictures of somebody else's fancy race car we'll believe everything he says, even when he's completely wrong. Age does not equal wisdom.
 
Like I told you get under the car and see how you can move the arm at the pin front to back. Or just do the drive to reverse check with a helper. You'll see the problem.

When a OEM bushing tears this is what it does that makes the car wonder on uneven roads. Now not only are you letting it move you promote it with lube. This changes the alignment when they move.

It only gets worse with the swivel on the front of the adjustable struts.

My car failed from using double flat upper bolts that came from the same Vender that sold the kit. The bolts are weaker then the single flat OEM style. They do not take the same torque before they fail. The alignment shop tightened them. I didn't think they were that weak. The thread pulled right off.

I never saw a pin fail in the 40+ years of working on these cars unless the K-member failed from the pre 70 cars with use of heavy bars and a stabilizer without the braced K-member from 70 up. One of the reasons I posted these pictures.
The only movement on the pin has a sleeve on it that you leave in place to install the poly bushings. So before the pin wears it has to wear through the sleeve

If you look close at the picture of the k-member I cut apart you can see the factory welded brace on the outside. And having cut these apart I know what they look like on the inside also. I wonder why they did that? Seams you would have the answer for that? You seam to have the answers why your two cars are the base for your expert knowledge.

I am only trying to enlighten you on the facts. Not assumptions . If the Vender's selling these parts would admit to their poor engineering . The bottom would drop out of their sales. And think of the liability they would face. But I forgot their could be no liability from Chinese made parts.

You need to sit down and think why they encased the OEM bushings. It was not to stop them from moving side to side. It was to stop it from moving front to back. And they didn't secure the torsion to hold the arm front for a reason. Wonder why? You should have the answer for that.

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Look close at the pictures of the different bolts OEM vs. China. This was the bolt from the Duster. Now I wonder why they made that bolt like that? Easier to mass produce for indexing maybe? LOL

Also the heavy duty K verses the standard style. Now I wonder why they did that in 1970. The inside was also different. I saw it when I cut the 71 k-member apart. To modify it for the Duster.

You use what you feel works for you. But I wouldn't push this junk on other members. I am not promoting the sale of anything. Just trying to show the better OEM parts. If you can find them use them. And only use MOOG suspension parts. I found out the hard way .

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A good discussion. On thing I do wonder is Moog still all US made or some out of China?? Sort of like discussing oil filters/diesel fuel filetrs.. Wix, I understand some US and some China. Last week I had an fuel filter for my 95 Cummins splits across the bottom and I was dumping out fuel like crazy!!! On a Sunday out in no where Texas, I limped home getting 2 mpg!!! Not sure what brand it was I had put on, I had it as a spare under the seat a few months ago. Go figure.
 
A good discussion. On thing I do wonder is Moog still all US made or some out of China?? Sort of like discussing oil filters/diesel fuel filetrs.. Wix, I understand some US and some China. Last week I had an fuel filter for my 95 Cummins splits across the bottom and I was dumping out fuel like crazy!!! On a Sunday out in no where Texas, I limped home getting 2 mpg!!! Not sure what brand it was I had put on, I had it as a spare under the seat a few months ago. Go figure.
I have heard some Moog pieces are coming from PRC. May be once US built inventory is depleted it is replaced with Chinesium pieces.
 
I really don't know where anything is made any more . I just always go to NAPA and order parts from my relatives store. I have compared things to are local Autozone and found quality is usually better with steering parts at NAPA and he usually gets me moog. I never have a problem and the ball joints have had a steel cup when looking at them. I have not bought any for a month or two because I have some here from the past for my car. But I did have guys come here with kits they got on line . The parts were really poor quality. Instead of the the threads being 1/2 20 they were 7/16 on tie rods.

Steering and brakes are nothing to go cheap on. You only get what you pay for is the old saying . But there are times the higher price stuff is just as bad. You have to do your own homework. Ask if the joints have a "plastic product" in them. Not just plastic because what we call plastic they may call Oak. You all know what I mean. Don't trust anyone do your own homework.. My son just put are Dual wheel truck the trailer and a honda in a pond down the road from a tie rod ball pulling out that was installed in Texas at "East texas trucks". No water got in it but he was lucky it was not deep where he went in. Cost him $600 to get it out. and we knew the tow company

It does not pay to go low quality on steering and brakes. Ask questions where you are buying them. you can look at the parts in hand. I was told Car quest is pretty good also . I just guess it depends on the store you go to.
 
I'm getting ready to swap in my front disc setup that came off a 73' duster into my 67' Valiant, however, the setup needs freshened up first. I'm looking for peoples experiences with bushings/balljoints/tie rods with the various brands: PST, PerformanceOnline, etc... Anyone notice a quality difference in the kits? Looking to go with a polyurethane style. Thanks in advance!


Dusterman440,

Please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns pertaining to any of the products that we offer. We have been selling both rubber as well as polygraphite bushings in our kits for the past 35 years. We have had customers that only want rubber and we have had that love the poly,in fact as of today we have sold 187 mopar polygraphite front end kits this year. So if there was a question on quality the numbers speak for themselves. The manufacturers that we use we have had a long standing relationships with and take q/c very seriously.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
I would go for Moog or a known brand name. I just checked Rockauto's site and there is a American flag under the listing if the part is USA made. (but read post 31 on page 2)
 
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