Poly strut bushings.

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MOA

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I didn't find any threads that show the bushings I have.

These are PST.

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The washer is conical, I've read differing opinions regarding orientation. Some say cupped side out,others say cupped side in, depending on year.

What side toward the bushing, and anyone using these, are you happy with them?

I'm pretty sure there will be a good amount of resistance but expect them to break in and free up a little.
 
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One of the steel sleeves was .015" ID too small, would not fit over the strut.

I contacted PST Thursday, technical support was not available, left message, no return callback.

Used an end grinder with a behive sanding chinga to open it up enough.

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Waiting for paint to dry. Wire wheeled and painted, corrosion protection.

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PST says cupped side of washer toward bushing.
 
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MOA said:
One of the steel sleeves was .015" ID too small, would not fit over the strut.

I contacted PST Thursday, technical support was not available, left message, no return callback.

Used an end grinder with a behive sanding chinga to open it up enough.

View attachment 1715387572

Waiting for paint to dry. Wire wheeled and painted, corrosion protection.

View attachment 1715387600
Click to expand...

MOA said:
PST says cupped side of washer toward bushing.
Click to expand...

Yep, otherwise you end up with split bushings.
 
MOA,

I am sorry if we missed your call to tech support. We are open Monday-Friday. In the future if you have an issue or a question please feel free to shoot me a PM.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
Thanks James.
 
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After finding quite a bit of info on poly bushings I've decided not to use them.

The stock strut rod is too long because of the increased thickness of the poly bushing.

I could buy the adjustable strut rods and use the poly bushings but the heim joint type are far superior to the bushing type. They are more expensive but not by that much, so why screw around.

I now see why there was very little response to this thread, a lot of differing opinions and a sore spot for some.
 
I always grind/turn down the poly-bushings ( just the 'rear'-ones) to the 'correct' thickness so they won't force the LCA backwards, lessen caster and shorten the life of the LCA-bushing.
 
I thought about doing that, my opinion is, it's already creating resistance and making it thinner would just create more. I'm sure yours works fine, not questioning how you solved yours.

It's an arbitrary number, the amount that needs to be removed, since I have not found that number I would just be guessing. I have QA1 upper control arms with heim joint, getting the correct caster, camber etc shouldn't be a problem, it's the added resistance that bothers me. And that I've seen too many people having to replace the Poly bushing. Not wanting to replace the bushing later is more the issue.

I don't enjoy doing stuff twice.
 
I saw a member post a video a while back of a Go-Pro mounted facing the strut rod bushings which supposedly were polyurethane. You could clearly see the front bushing collapse 1/8" or more every time the brakes engaged, so with a factory setup the alignment changes when you're on the brakes. Screw that.

My Duster used to jerk the steering wheel to the side in hard braking (well-maintained front discs), not anymore after the adjustable strut rods. I would put those on pretty much any classic Mopar now, especially one that sees a lot of highway driving; I'm not a fan of jumping lanes if I do a panic-stop. They also complement poly LCA bushings and are kind of mandatory with those actually.
 
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