Motor mount info needed for LA small block
This past weekend made a copy of Mancini's MagMount for my E-body. Essentially they cut off the threaded stud, drill through, countersink the back side, and stuff a 1/2" flat head screw in the hole. to fail you have to pull that flat head though a .200" thick plate. They do the same for the A-body mount somehow, but I can't find a good pic of it. Looks like there should be enough offset between the bolts to get a flat head on each side. Maybe do the first, tack it in and then drill and countersink the other one if they overlap. A mill is nice but can be done on a drill press or worst case by hand. Mine cost me less than $10 for the mount and the bolt instead of the $60 Mancini sells them for.
Here is mine. I also swapped the nut so the bolt will go in from the front of the car because the header blocks it on the other side and I had to pull it off to get the mount out. I use a nylock nut to mount the stud and tighten until it is compressing the mount a bit.
I still need a torque strap because the hole in the K member for the bolt is huge and I can't get the bolt tight enough to keep it from eventually walking on the mount. Engine moves a lot and that is bad juju for the headers that run under the drag link.
This past weekend made a copy of Mancini's MagMount for my E-body. Essentially they cut off the threaded stud, drill through, countersink the back side, and stuff a 1/2" flat head screw in the hole. to fail you have to pull that flat head though a .200" thick plate. They do the same for the A-body mount somehow, but I can't find a good pic of it. Looks like there should be enough offset between the bolts to get a flat head on each side. Maybe do the first, tack it in and then drill and countersink the other one if they overlap. A mill is nice but can be done on a drill press or worst case by hand. Mine cost me less than $10 for the mount and the bolt instead of the $60 Mancini sells them for.
Here is mine. I also swapped the nut so the bolt will go in from the front of the car because the header blocks it on the other side and I had to pull it off to get the mount out. I use a nylock nut to mount the stud and tighten until it is compressing the mount a bit.
I still need a torque strap because the hole in the K member for the bolt is huge and I can't get the bolt tight enough to keep it from eventually walking on the mount. Engine moves a lot and that is bad juju for the headers that run under the drag link.
