Help Me Cool Down
OK to summarize;
You need a waterpump with an anti-cavitation plate, a hi-flo stat, a 7 blade all-steel , hi-attack angle fan like the one shown below, with a thermostatic clutch, and a lower hose that is guaranteed not to get sucked flat, adequate exhaust flow and fresh cold air into the carb.
(EDIT; I also severely restricted my bypass hose., but still run a heatercore.)
Now when properly installed, the pump can be underdriven a lil, and the engine idled down to 650.
Proper installation means the fan cannot pull air from the engine side of the rad, and the rad is sealed to the incoming air stream. No worries, the 7 blader, when the clutch kicks in, will push all the hot air out, no hood venting required. Well with a turbo, maybe not all the hot-air will leave,lol.
After you get this set-up, the temperature differential between the top of the rad and the bottom should be a minimum of 30*F, with the hood closed, and idling at a stop. If it isn't, then install a shroud.
This system has more than adequately cooled my aluminum headed NA 367 in every iteration it has seen, with cylinder pressure above 177psi in every case, and including the mighty 292/292/108 cam.... but see, I have TTI headers and full length dual 3"pipes, and a big ol' hole in my hood sealed to the carb, directing fresh cold air into her. This system works so good, I run a minimum coolant temp of 207*F and a 7psi cap.
I and others are telling you what works.
But if you are building boost at idle, all bets are off.
You are free to spend your money any way you want to.
Oh, BTW, My rad is an ancient model, I plucked from a 1973Dart with A/C. After I proved the system worked with 100% water, I eventually swapped to 50/50 ant-freeze; so I wouldn't have to drain the water every fall, cuz; you know, I was getting older, and finding those petcocks on a lowered car was getting to be a PITA. The system continued to function as it did with pure water.
Because that 7-blader/with thermostatic clutch, is freakishly heavy, I went with a HD 8-vane pump with its larger impeller shaft, and assumed to be, heavier-duty bearings. That was 2001, and it's still on that engine; from a time standpoint that pump is the cheapest pump I ever bought..
If you are hesitant to install a real fan,on account of some stoopid video you saw that said your fan will suck 35 horsepower at 7000 rpm, then give your head a shake. Firstly your T-clutch will not be powered up at 7000, and Secondly; even if it was, you got a turbo, and Thirdly; if you can spin the tires to 60 mph what the heck does it even matter?
Thanks to Oldmanmopar for this pic
OK to summarize;
You need a waterpump with an anti-cavitation plate, a hi-flo stat, a 7 blade all-steel , hi-attack angle fan like the one shown below, with a thermostatic clutch, and a lower hose that is guaranteed not to get sucked flat, adequate exhaust flow and fresh cold air into the carb.
(EDIT; I also severely restricted my bypass hose., but still run a heatercore.)
Now when properly installed, the pump can be underdriven a lil, and the engine idled down to 650.
Proper installation means the fan cannot pull air from the engine side of the rad, and the rad is sealed to the incoming air stream. No worries, the 7 blader, when the clutch kicks in, will push all the hot air out, no hood venting required. Well with a turbo, maybe not all the hot-air will leave,lol.
After you get this set-up, the temperature differential between the top of the rad and the bottom should be a minimum of 30*F, with the hood closed, and idling at a stop. If it isn't, then install a shroud.
This system has more than adequately cooled my aluminum headed NA 367 in every iteration it has seen, with cylinder pressure above 177psi in every case, and including the mighty 292/292/108 cam.... but see, I have TTI headers and full length dual 3"pipes, and a big ol' hole in my hood sealed to the carb, directing fresh cold air into her. This system works so good, I run a minimum coolant temp of 207*F and a 7psi cap.
I and others are telling you what works.
But if you are building boost at idle, all bets are off.
You are free to spend your money any way you want to.
Oh, BTW, My rad is an ancient model, I plucked from a 1973Dart with A/C. After I proved the system worked with 100% water, I eventually swapped to 50/50 ant-freeze; so I wouldn't have to drain the water every fall, cuz; you know, I was getting older, and finding those petcocks on a lowered car was getting to be a PITA. The system continued to function as it did with pure water.
Because that 7-blader/with thermostatic clutch, is freakishly heavy, I went with a HD 8-vane pump with its larger impeller shaft, and assumed to be, heavier-duty bearings. That was 2001, and it's still on that engine; from a time standpoint that pump is the cheapest pump I ever bought..
If you are hesitant to install a real fan,on account of some stoopid video you saw that said your fan will suck 35 horsepower at 7000 rpm, then give your head a shake. Firstly your T-clutch will not be powered up at 7000, and Secondly; even if it was, you got a turbo, and Thirdly; if you can spin the tires to 60 mph what the heck does it even matter?
Thanks to Oldmanmopar for this pic
