Help Me Cool Down

Oldmanmopar said
Moroso Water Outlet Restrictor Kits 63440

My motor has no bypass. The coolant system was designed at a NASCAR shop. I do not need a stat that can fail or the washers.

Due the water leaving my block is restricted with a one inch hose. This prevents cavatating which causes steam pockets. I am using a one inch upper hose. No stat can create cavatating. you must restrict the flow if your radiator is to large or with a high flow pump.

But like always you seem to know everything. I would rather believe the experts then your misguided advice as always. Sometimes I think you just make up stories to cause conflict. There are time you are correct but not often

Like I said I went to a 5/8 washer to see if I can drop the cavitating more . I was alright with the one inch hose as recommended by a friend Modify Nascar shop foreman Tony Hirshcman. Spotter for Kyle bush. #18 who designed my cooling system for street and track racing.

I did not decide this application or make up a story as you. The experts did. Something you and I are not. But I am learning late in life. Something I can admit.

YOU MUST RESTRICT FLOW LEAVING THE MOTOR AND TRAVELING THROUGH THE RADIATOR IF YOUR RADIATOR CANNOT DO IT. Steam pockets can be caused at idle with a high flow electric pump.

Seams like they all agree with the old Mopar manuals. I believe the later manuals they assumed it should be known. from knowledge learned in the 70's. Almost 50 years ago.

View attachment 1715391667

I don't make anything up. Before I built my cooling system, I didn't deal with Moroso or anyone who is essentially just a parts seller.

I called Stewart Components, Evans Coolant and Griffin radiators. All said the same thing. Which I already knew.

I called the experts. That's why on a hundred degree day, I have to have a thermostat. Otherwise, running down the road the coolant temp drops to about 140. How can that be? It's unrestricted so it should overheat? But it's the opposite. I'd rather not have the restriction of the thermostat. But I have to get some temp in it. I might not get 120 degrees of temp in it if I drove it when the temp is 20 degrees. Which I do drive it in that weather.

Again, you can go all over the web and find the answer you want. It's still wrong. It always was wrong. I can point out 20 different "experts" who will tell you that you set power valve opening at idle. It's still wrong. And it always was wrong. I keep pointing to this as an example because several members here actually went out and TESTED the FACT I posted (and many others have too...I don't want to forget Mattax and several others who say it every time they see it wrong) and learned the truth. That that old wives tale is wrong. No matter who says it and what book it's in.

In my world, I don't care who you are, what you do, or who you threaten. You are wrong on this. It's a public forum. If you don't like being called out, don't post things that are wrong.

I apologize in advance because this dude will argue with a stop sign. The fact is, you can't get enough flow. Slowing down the coolant is a required evil sometimes. It's never good. To say an engine overheats because the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator is wrong. It's always wrong. It's actually in the thermodynics books. Get as much air flow and coolant flow as you can, and use your thermostat to set the minimum coolant temp you need.

It's that simple.