Problem removing inner valve springs

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After rereading post#1, I think he is trying to remove the valve spring damper. The cam is only .501 lift 292 dur and doesn't need a double spring. If it is a double spring with a damper then remove the inner and outer spring have the springs pressure tested and put together without the inner spring and leave it out if the outer will do the job by itself.
 
Maybe if the OP could give us some pictures, we'd know for sure.
 
Lube er up and let er rip at a steady 1500 rpm's. That's how it was done before all the flat cam mumbo jumbo. lol
 
1800-3000 rpm break in, anywhere in there and fluctuating is gold. Remember.. you want oil flying all over the cam lobes.

I bet those springs are 120 seat, if that , dont remove any springs. Even they were 140lbs seat ...I wouldn't remove the inner springs.
 
never ever ever had a flat lobe. I believe the higher rpm's and fluctuating is the lobe killer.
In the 70's it was 1500 steady. lol
 
fishmens67 said:
never ever ever had a flat lobe. I believe the higher rpm's and fluctuating is the lobe killer.
In the 70's it was 1500 steady. lol
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I start low 1800...and work my way to 2400..then finish with a couple 3000 whaps.
Hughes cam, only one to go bye bye...165 seat psi imo was the killer.

If you never lost a lobe... then you can't really assume or say that 3,000 RPM is what's going to do it, can you.:usflag:
 
fishmens67 said:
never ever ever had a flat lobe. I believe the higher rpm's and fluctuating is the lobe killer.
In the 70's it was 1500 steady. lol
Click to expand...
Bout every sbc I've broke in..I did at 1500-2200, Chrysler's I do a little higher, higher cam location, more rpm to fling it...and that's how I was taught in my teens learning.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I start low 1800...and work my way to 2400..then finish with a couple 3000 whaps.
Hughes cam, only one to go bye bye...165 seat psi imo was the killer.

If you never lost a lobe... then you can't really assume or say that 3,000 RPM is what's going to do it, can you.:usflag:
Click to expand...
I think we're on the same page. increasing rpm steady at the end.
 
yellow rose said:
All this work for that little cam?

Screw that. Get the timing set and fuel in the bowls and crack it off.
Click to expand...
That's what I did with OOTB Eddies and their springs. Rrr, vroooom, crank in some timing,and some rpm, and go for coffee. Same procedure for the next two cams but with progressively better springs each time.
 
90psi on a 3.91 bore is 1081 pounds of force...
this is why cranking cylinder pressure of 180psi, in a 3.91bore, (2162 pounds of force), makes such a sweet street engine. And a tired old 318 with 90psi is a total dog of an engine.
And that is also why a 268* cam in a 318 is such a POS off the line with a stock TC and 2.76 gears; it's the abysmal amount of motive force. At 120psi, it amounts to just 1441 pounds of force.... compared to the stock smogger-teen at 140psi having 1681 pounds of force. So you have to wait, and wait, and wait, for the engine to get up to some rpm where the engine-combo starts trapping air. With 2.76s, it's a really, really,reallyyyyyyyy long wait.
But at TDC in a static engine,90psi means nothing, cuz the crank ain't moving. But if it moves just a little, in the blink of an eye it will be headed down to BDC, and there won't be a single thing you can do to stop it. Lord help you if it goes over backwards with you hanging onto the breaker-bar.
But it's a pretty handy way to undo the balancer bolt, if it goes the normal way, and doesn't tear your arm off on the way down.
 
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It worked!! I sprayed the valve spring locks with BP blast and let it soak for 20 minutes then hit the retainers with a socket/hammer method. Just 2 or 3 hits each and they all broke loose. That proform rocker shaft mounted valve spring compressor with the compressed air sure makes it easy. Thanks for all of your guys advice and info. I love this site!!
 
May the force be with you
great heads up AJ
congrats Dustin- keep us posted
what are you using for break in oil with your new build
I recommend a blended specific break in oil not DIY additives- pre lube with the drill
and double everything so it fires immediately, and keep the revs up
 
Wyrmrider said:
May the force be with you
great heads up AJ
congrats Dustin- keep us posted
what are you using for break in oil with your new build
I recommend a blended specific break in oil not DIY additives- pre lube with the drill
and double-check everything so it fires immediately, and keep the revs up
Click to expand...
Fixed it for ya,lol.
My tips;
Push the car OUTSIDE and at least 4/5 car-lengths away from any wood buildings or flammables;
Do not set the fire-extinguisher down beside the left front wheel! Or even anywhere near the car; better to have to run for it then to not be able to get to it cuz the fenders are on fire!
Have an emergency shut-down plan. I use a long jumper wire feeding battery power to the ignition system. After it starts, I turn the key to off, and run the ignition off the jumper. If I need an emergency shut-down, I just pull the jumper.
Have running water close by and an IR gun.
I never break in an engine with a new thermostat in it , or any stat at all; just a restrictor washer. I can't tell you how fast things can go wrong when the stat won't open,
or if you panic.

But mostly; set the daymn timing right ! and plenty of it.
As soon as the engine fires: get her up to speed and then tug on the Timing until the rpm peaks and then retard it a couple to a few. . Forget what the timing light says at this point; just give her what she craves; could be 40 to 50 degrees. Then pull the rpm back down to 2200 to 2500.
Check for leaks, especially gas! If you spot a gas leak, shut it down! to fix it; Do not try to fix a gas leak on an engine running at 2200plus!
OK eyeball the gauges and sit down.
Keep an eye on the temp gauge, and grab a beverage; 20 minutes at 2200 is a really long time.....
I used to involve two or three other guys on this business; one on the fire extinguisher and emergency shut-down, another on the waterhose, and me the maniac overseer.
Above all; If you feel the need to shut her down, DO IT!
Don't panic;
The cam will be fine when you start over.
And if not; Better to sacrifice the cam than to lose the entire engine, or worse, the entire car. You got her insured?
 
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I've watched mistimed builds backfire and catch the carb on fire way to many times
right on AJ
when things go wrong they go wrong quick
gas can sitting on the roof with a plastic hose to the carb can be a very bad idea
 
AJ/FormS said:
90psi on a 3.91 bore is 1081 pounds of force...
this is why cranking cylinder pressure of 180psi, in a 3.91bore, (2162 pounds of force), makes such a sweet street engine. And a tired old 318 with 90psi is a total dog of an engine.
And that is also why a 268* cam in a 318 is such a POS off the line with a stock TC and 2.76 gears; it's the abysmal amount of motive force. At 120psi, it amounts to just 1441 pounds of force.... compared to the stock smogger-teen at 140psi having 1681 pounds of force. So you have to wait, and wait, and wait, for the engine to get up to some rpm where the engine-combo starts trapping air. With 2.76s, it's a really, really,reallyyyyyyyy long wait.
But at TDC in a static engine,90psi means nothing, cuz the crank ain't moving. But if it moves just a little, in the blink of an eye it will be headed down to BDC, and there won't be a single thing you can do to stop it. Lord help you if it goes over backwards with you hanging onto the breaker-bar.
But it's a pretty handy way to undo the balancer bolt, if it goes the normal way, and doesn't tear your arm off on the way down.
Click to expand...

You cannot figure it like that. You have to figure based on WHERE the piston is in the bore. You have more square inches at BDC, than TDC, get it? It's three dimensional, not one.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You cannot figure it like that. You have to figure based on WHERE the piston is in the bore. You have more square inches at BDC, than TDC, get it? It's three dimensional, not one.
Click to expand...

It wont make pressure till the intake valve closes and that is at what degree?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah, and?
Click to expand...


You said,
You cannot figure it like that. You have to figure based on WHERE the piston is in the bore. You have more square inches at BDC, than TDC, get it? It's three dimensional, not one.

90 psi on a 3.91 bore makes no difference on force on piston if it 1" away from top or 20" away from top. It's still 90 psi on a 3.91" bore. Now if you are talking reality on the piston making pressure it depends on when the intake valve closes and the stroke from that point.
 
brian6pac said:
You said,
You cannot figure it like that. You have to figure based on WHERE the piston is in the bore. You have more square inches at BDC, than TDC, get it? It's three dimensional, not one.

90 psi on a 3.91 bore makes no difference on force on piston if it 1" away from top or 20" away from top. It's still 90 psi on a 3.91" bore. Now if you are talking reality on the piston making pressure it depends on when the intake valve closes and the stroke from that point.
Click to expand...

Right and I am right. The valves both stay closed for how long? It's longer than just ONE spot in the piston's travel. Get me? The volume will VARY from the point both valves are closed, until the exhaust valve opens. So it depends on WHERE the piston IS as to how much volume there is at a given measuring point.
 
But all of this is moot anyway, since the OP seems to have gotten it done!
 
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