Hooked pulling front wheels then spun

Cudafever said

I'm in the shock learning camp, and just not grasping the hole tuning theory behind it all. And I like these kind of thread that gets the ol mind working.

so, removing the rear clamps (on a SS Spring in this case) allow it to bite harder.........Faster?

Does this mean that you are cause the spring to be a lighter weight spring under load(with rear spring clamps removed) AKA push the spring harder and faster like a weaker spring woud act.

If i understand this correctly, then removing the rear spring clamps is just like setting your rears shock rebound (shock extenting) to a softer setting........ AKA like turning the dial on the shock from 9 firm to 1 soft.(suspension loading, shock extending)

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Removing the rear leaf spring clamps lets the axle separate from the car easier as the axle tries to rotate pinion up. Pushing up on the front spring eye and pressing the tire into the track. Too much or too violently and the tire compresses too much and bounces, unloading the tire. So its a hook and spin deal. So you tune/time it with the extension setting of the rear shock. If it bounces the tire, stiffen up the extension to slow the impact and delay it until the car is moving faster. So you really want it as soft as possible to get the highest downward pressure on the tire without bouncing it. You should have already established what tire pressure the car wants because it will dramatically change how bounce prone the tire will be. I have cheap non adjustable kyb rear shocks and the rear just rotates pinion up but doesn’t separate. So if I spin it is right at the hit, not after. I really need a double adjustable rear shock to loosen up the extension and get more bite on the hit.