Dartin for Divorce

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DentalDart said:
I've been scavenging the market places for a new tool box... Haven't found the right deal yet, soon I will find one.

Found these though, dog dish hubcaps/poverty caps, they fit 15 in cop car wheels I believe is what I've read .

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A lot of guys out where I work have the harbor freight U.S. General tool box. Its top doubles as a nice workbench. Wide top drawer, and double drawers. We call em "Taco Wagons"

Harbor freight one comes in different colors of powdercoating, pretty heavy cage steel, and roller bearing drawer slides. Not super super expensive either. If they had these when I bought my Mac Tech 1000 series I woulda bought one of these instead.

BTW the dog dishes fit 13", 14", 15" steel wheels.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
A lot of guys out where I work have the harbor freight U.S. General tool box. Its top doubles as a nice workbench. Wide top drawer, and double drawers. We call em "Taco Wagons" btw the dog dish caps fit 13, 14, and 15" wheels. Comes in different colors of powdercoating, pretty heavy cage steel, and roller bearing drawer slides. Not super super expensive either. If they had these when I thought my Mac Tech 1000 series I woulda bought one of these instead.
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Yeah the harbor freight ones are nice, I think 500 for it too. The Craftsman just like it was on sale for 350 at home Depot the other day, I should have grabbed it but I'm a cheap *** and wanted a better deal haha .
 
I have several Kobalt tool boxes going on 15 years, if you keep an eye out you can generally get them at a great price, never had an issue with none of them
 
Personally I think the craftsman ones are kinda cheap and not in a good way. The metal is kinda flimsy. Go look at em, then check out the taco wagons at china freight. You will see a substantial difference in the thickness of the steel in the tool box. Plus the china freight ones are powder coated, and have heavy duty drawer slides. Worth the extra $150 over the Crapsman IMHO.
 
My cousin told me the craftsman and harbor freight boxes are made in the same factory, where he got his info, I do not know.
What I do know, is I pulled the drawers out on the HF ones in the store, and the rollers work real smooth.
For a hobbyist I think the HF one would do you fine.
I have a Craftsman box that I got for Christmas in 1991 it has held up fine, but does not have the roller bearings the new ones do. Dirt and dust play havioc on the slides.
I bought my dad a Kobalt one at Lowes a year or so ago for christmas, and he loves it, roller slides, it is a nice box.
Plus things like tool boxes are marked down alot during the holidays, so it pays to shop, and the sales will start about two months from now if you wait.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Personally I think the craftsman ones are kinda cheap and not in a good way. The metal is kinda flimsy. Go look at em, then check out the taco wagons at china freight. You will see a substantial difference in the thickness of the steel in the tool box. Plus the china freight ones are powder coated, and have heavy duty drawer slides. Worth the extra $150 over the Crapsman IMHO.
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Agree 100% The harbor freight box is a really nice piece. I have the 42" bottom box, the matching top box and the side cabinet. Im not in the trade, but I have definitely put it to use. It's loaded also. The drawers work the same as they did on day 1 and the struts that hold open the top box lid are still perfect. I don't ever close the top box. The side cabinet is a little cheaper, but I just keep my body tools in there.

I got the bottom box in 2011 ,thet box, I've had for about in 2014 and the the cabinet in 2017.
 
Looking into buying a china freight 3 drawer mechanics service cart to put all my welding specific stuff into, make a bracket to hold my gas bottle, and mount the welder on the bottom shelf.
 
DentalDart said:
That's what I thought, when reading through some threads it says to loosen everything, so I just wanted to make sure.
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Loosen as much as it takes to get all of the tension out of the torsion bar. In my case I disconnected the lower shock mount, the lower ball joint, and the strut rod that runs from the forward part of the K-member to LCA.
 
2 Darts said:
Loosen as much as it takes to get all of the tension out of the torsion bar. In my case I disconnected the lower shock mount, the lower ball joint, and the strut rod that runs from the forward part of the K-member to LCA.
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Loosen the torsion bar adjuster bolt all the way till its loose on the metal plate it threads into before disconnecting anything else though. Those bars are under a lot of tension to hold the car up.
 
2 Darts said:
Loosen as much as it takes to get all of the tension out of the torsion bar. In my case I disconnected the lower shock mount, the lower ball joint, and the strut rod that runs from the forward part of the K-member to LCA.
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Thanks! I ended up not having to take them out to get the headers in.

I just have to go through one day and figure out about raising the car a little more now to avoid scraping the headers on the ground .
 
Get under there and crank the bolt in on the bottom side of your lower control arm. It literally takes about 15 seconds per side. Be aware if you change the ride height too much you'll need to go get an alignment to bring the front end back into specs.
 
BrianT said:
Get under there and crank the bolt in on the bottom side of your lower control arm. It literally takes about 15 seconds per side. Be aware if you change the ride height too much you'll need to go get an alignment to bring the front end back into specs.
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Yes sir. That's what I planned on doing. I just don't think it will raise it enough. Maybe it's a sign... A sign I need to redo my whole front end and get 15s with disc brakes.

Btw now I know how you cooc guys feel. When I drive the Dart I feel like the coolest guy ever, everyone gives you thumbs up, yell cool car and stare when I drive it. Older guys and some women come up to me saying how it reminds them of the good ol days and that the car even smells like the 60's and 70's. I though the 70s was just filled with drugs sex and alcohol though? :rofl:
 
It makes all the time, money and effort worth it. I can't run to the gas station without someone coming up and telling about the time... Usually it revolves around high school, sometimes it includes a girl.

Just being able to bring back great memories for people makes I worth it.

The other thing I do is when I go to cruise-ins or car shows is allow small children to sit in the driver's seat to have a picture made. My car is a driver so I'm not anal about stuff like that.
 
BrianT said:
Get under there and crank the bolt in on the bottom side of your lower control arm. It literally takes about 15 seconds per side. Be aware if you change the ride height too much you'll need to go get an alignment to bring the front end back into specs.
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You really ought to get the weight off of them 1st. The screws were never meant to lift the weight of the car.
 
66fyssh said:
It makes all the time, money and effort worth it. I can't run to the gas station without someone coming up and telling about the time... Usually it revolves around high school, sometimes it includes a girl.

Just being able to bring back great memories for people makes I worth it.

The other thing I do is when I go to cruise-ins or car shows is allow small children to sit in the driver's seat to have a picture made. My car is a driver so I'm not anal about stuff like that.
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Yea it's pretty cool for sure .

I haven't done any cruises or shows yet but I think I'll probably do the same thing with kids. I mean my car has 2 car seats in it, it's not like random kids can break my car any worse than my kids can.
 
69_340_GTS said:
You really ought to get the weight off of them 1st. The screws were never meant to lift the weight of the car.
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That was my plan.

Also this is the toolbox I will probably get. It's plenty big enough to grow into, good price and awesome Sam's club warranty.

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It was an eventful weekend! Got some new wheels. Originally thought they were police wheels, but they are just 15x5 steelies which I like more than police. Got some dog dishes to go with them too all for a grand total of 120. Woohoo good deals.

Then today I got some more parts, they are being shipped from Washington. Great member in FABO found the add in his state and sent me the link. Redline dog dishes! My favorite! I also got this exhaust manifold thingy... It's got a little crack at the rear mounting hole, but I think I will try to get it fixed. :thumbsup:

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Gearhed73 said:
What size tires are you planning on running with the new wheels?
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I have no clue, as I haven't done much research on the correct tire sizes yet. Just know I needed some 15in wheels with 5x4.5 bbp to do disc brakes eventually. I saw a chart saying 195/205 was widest* you could run on a 15x5 wheel. I may look for some 15x7 wheels for the rear if that's better to get a little bit wider tire back there, currently I have 245/60/14s in the rear and 235/60/14s in the front.
 
245/60's would like little more width, I have a set of 235/60 on 15x7 cop wheels and they fit nice with 4.25 BS
 
R4Sedan said:
Congratulations on your Dart and the New Baby. I'm just now catching up!:lol:
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Thanks! You haven't missed much though, just a dork struggling with the easy stuff lol .

I asked if I could drive the dart to school today and my daughter said "no it's my car and you can't ever take it again..." :rofl:
 
Gearhed73 said:
245/60's would like little more width, I have a set of 235/60 on 15x7 cop wheels and they fit nice with 4.25 BS
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I was thinking 15x7 with 4.5bs

The only problem I think I'll run into when running different size wheels is rotating them, but with the mileage the car will get it's probably not that big of a deal .
 
Those cracked exhaust manifolds are usually warped too. If you can find someone who knows how to weld cast iron, then the next thing you'll need is a machinist to mill those flanges flat. If you don't, they'll just crack again.
 
69_340_GTS said:
Those cracked exhaust manifolds are usually warped too. If you can find someone who knows how to weld cast iron, then the next thing you'll need is a machinist to mill those flanges flat. If you don't, they'll just crack again.
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I'll look into finding someone who can do it. For the price of it I couldn't pass it up. I'll have some expensive Christmas ornaments at the very least lol.
 
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