Anyone know if a 72 Duster K member will fit in a 74

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yes, but the motor mounts and maybe sway bar will be different
 
When did the spool mounts come out?[/QUOTEti He honest I don’t know the name of the part of the K frame that broke, here’s a picture it’s close up

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Spool mounts came out in 73. 72 K frame will bolt in but you will have to use old style biscuit mounts and the earlier sway bar if you have one. Drag link and tie rods are differerent but yu can use all the stuff from the 74 to the 72. You just can't "mix and match"
 
"The basic differences:"

67 is one year only with the oddball idler arm, otherwise same as 68-72

67--72 had the older "pillow" engine mounts and the anti-roll bar, if used, mounted below the K member

73 and later used the "spool" engine mounts and the anti-roll bar, if used, went INSIDE the hollow K to tuck it up out of the way.

Not counting the "heavy duty" so called 340K, or the odd modified big block K
 
I cannot tell from your photo, appears relate to the lower control arm pivot pin, which is fairly common. That is a sleeve in the K member and the pin goes in with a nut on the back side, a friction fit so to speak. If the sleeve is not damaged you can clean it up and weld it, I would get some "big ***" washers to reinforce the area. You will want to build a simple "mirror jig" off the other side to get the thing close to alignment. If you do get it imperfect, you can get adjustable strut rods
 
the control arm pivot sleeve weld failed. and if your going to all this trouble, weld both sides up and the steering box mounts too
 
Yes, it can be welded up. I've fixed worse. I do this on the side, as well. Every k-member I do spends a day or two in my hot tank before I start work on it. I also have a jig that keeps the pivot pin tubes in the right place. Here's worse...

Somebody had already "fixed" this one, but the pivot pin would not go tight on the one side due to the plate they welded on. So, it came apart. One of the things that I do is to cut open the lower half below the tubes so that I can weld them in from the inside. Last pic is one that I worked on that didn't have any breakage. This is just to show how pitiful they were originally built...That k-member was twisted, BAD. Yes, I straightened it...
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Would that failure cause the engine to drop down on drivers side where the headers are resting on the steering column and cause alignment issues.
 
Would that failure cause the engine to drop down on drivers side where the headers are resting on the steering column and cause alignment issues.
absofrigginlutely! BTW I've seen that k frame advertised on fabo for $75-100. When I have them I get $150-$200 sandblasted and painted. I have repaired them also. I have a welding guy who cuts a piece out of a 6cyl k frame and splices it in.
 
Would that failure cause the engine to drop down on drivers side where the headers are resting on the steering column and cause alignment issues.
Alignment issues yes but cuase engine position change? I don't think so. The mounts position the engine. Maybe the K has failed in a second place?
There are a lot of threads here about header brands/types and steering column clearance where K member is not a factor or cause.
 
The fit was good before the K member failed, I had a good 1/4 inch of play between the rear headers pipe and the steering coupler, now zero
 
the control arm pivot sleeve weld failed. and if your going to all this trouble, weld both sides up and the steering box mounts too
Where do you weld the steering mounts just beef them up.
Are there any more mods I should do to the K before Ii put it back in
 
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