Just quit

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R BEE

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Out for a tour Thought it would be nice to take wife for ride.
Came to stop sign after driving for twenty miles or so and engine quit.
This happened to me couple years ago at another stop sign .
Got the car started back up this time approached and other intersection
an before 20 feet or so the stop sign quit again.
this time it started ran 30sec quit .Pushed in to parking lot across street
checked all the easy stuff battery ground .fuel, ballast resister plugs .
Flatbed back to home .Did start and ran but started to act up so I shut off and walked away.
Anything to check ?
will take and check all suggestions.

R BEE
 
Sounds electrical. What kind of ignition are you running? Box bad? Could be some corrosion on the bulk head connector too. Hate intermittent problems. Good luck!
 
Like the others have said, what are we working on here? We need info.

I had an Orange Box do this to me. I'd be driving along and the engine would up and die. Wait a few minuets and it would start and drive fine for a mile or two then die. It did that until I replaced it.
 
Out for a tour Thought it would be nice to take wife for ride.
Came to stop sign after driving for twenty miles or so and engine quit.
This happened to me couple years ago at another stop sign .
Got the car started back up this time approached and other intersection
an before 20 feet or so the stop sign quit again.
this time it started ran 30sec quit .Pushed in to parking lot across street
checked all the easy stuff battery ground .fuel, ballast resister plugs .
Flatbed back to home .Did start and ran but started to act up so I shut off and walked away.
Anything to check ?
will take and check all suggestions.

R BEE


Quit stopping for stop signs...

That seems to be the common factor here....
 
I had my coil ground wire come loose once. The car would shut off when I hit a bump! I'd make sure your coil connections are tight. Good luck!
 
Exactly how did you check for fuel, spark, compression, and timing?
 
Out for a tour Thought it would be nice to take wife for ride.

I don't have the use of Rusty's crystal ball. You are gonna have to tell us, are you working on a hemi powered Farmall?



........or a 1943 Supermarine Spitfire?



.........And then after you tell us this, maybe you could ALSO tell us what you run for an ignition system.........breaker points, Mopar electronic, some HEI conversion, MSD, Pertronics.......Mallory..........?? ??
 
Here is the regulator and ballast resister .Ignition switch might also be a choice
will also check ground on coil and battery also starter , Fuel was checked by pumping linkage and spray in carb was good. It just seemed to be electrical . Thanks for all the reply's

electronics duster.jpg
 
As I mentioned previously my 67 did the exact same thing. Make a schematic for YOUR car. Using the fsm schematic as a base line. Go from there.
 
Here is the regulator and ballast resister .Ignition switch might also be a choice
will also check ground on coil and battery also starter , Fuel was checked by pumping linkage and spray in carb was good. It just seemed to be electrical . Thanks for all the reply's
I would
View attachment 1715399586

In your picture the orange box is the 'electronic control box' [ECU]. It is basically an on/off switch. I would disconnect the neg. battery terminal and remove the ECU from the fender. Then clean the fender and backside of ECU down to bare metal on one of the bolts, grease it, remount it, and test it. Or replace the ECU.
 
Here is the regulator and ballast resister .Ignition switch might also be a choice
will also check ground on coil and battery also starter , Fuel was checked by pumping linkage and spray in carb was good. It just seemed to be electrical . Thanks for all the reply's

View attachment 1715399586

What year and model car are you working on...

From what I can see in the fuzzy pic, you are running a 4 post ballast resistor with an electronic ignition module..

The electronic ignition kits come with a 2 post ballast resistor that you should use if it was swapped in...
 
What year and model car are you working on...

From what I can see in the fuzzy pic, you are running a 4 post ballast resistor with an electronic ignition module..

The electronic ignition kits come with a 2 post ballast resistor that you should use if it was swapped in...

The picture was taken from a iPhone in 2013 of a complete engine compartment then shrunk to just show just electronics. should have just sent whole engine compartment.

I have both a ignition box and a ballast resistor
coming . Noticed first ignition box was rated for 5,000rpm that was
designed for should have caught that. Motor is a race engine designed for 7200rpm The plug is a 4 way which is how car came. Old ignition box was MSD but was easier to go with Chrysler ignition when installing .
I will look into two plug from four thank you
 
The picture was taken from a iPhone in 2013 of a complete engine compartment then shrunk to just show just electronics. should have just sent whole engine compartment.

I have both a ignition box and a ballast resistor
coming . Noticed first ignition box was rated for 5,000rpm that was
designed for should have caught that. Motor is a race engine designed for 7200rpm The plug is a 4 way which is how car came. Old ignition box was MSD but was easier to go with Chrysler ignition when installing .
I will look into two plug from four thank you

If It came with electronic ignition and 4 prong ballast, then you should keep the 4 prong...

If it was a 2 prong ignition, then you need a 2 prong electronic ballast resistor...

You still haven't told us what year and model car this is so we can give you the proper advice...

Wrong/no information will get you the wrong parts/advice every time....
 
Last edited:
A recent picture might help also so we can see what you might be missing like a disconnected wire!
 
I'm jus saying;
On the street; My Orange box had no problem hitting 7000, in two gears ; maybe because with 3.55s I never get to 7000@83mph, in second gear very often, IDK. But 7000 in first was many times every day, for a few years.

The 5-pin Orange box needs a running voltage reduction, that is different from the factory coil. You can run a "dual" ballast resistor, and hit both at once, or you can run two different resistors one for each. Some coils need a different resistor from the factory as well.
If you have a 4pin ECU it is able to deal with battery voltage, so it doesn't need a ballast resistor.

I'm pretty sure that I have run a 4-pin ECU in a 5-pin harness with a dual ballast and it worked just fine. AFAIK that 4pin ECU draws power off a different pin, so the dual-ballast just "deadheads" in the connector.
 
If It came with electronic ignition and 4 prong ballast, then you should keep the 4 prong...

If it was a 2 prong ignition, then you need a 2 prong electronic ballast resistor...

You still haven't told us what year and model car this is so we can give you the proper advice...

Wrong/no information will get you the wrong parts/advice every time....
 
Body is 73 " engine is 01 transmission in 2016 PAW ,rear end is a 68 3.91 limited slip.

duster on scales.jpg
 
Body is 73 " engine is 01 transmission in 2016 PAW ,rear end is a 68 3.91 limited slip.

View attachment 1715400503

Ok, now we have some information to work with...

If it's a 73, then it should have the 4 prong ballast resistor like in the picture that you posted...

It was a factory electronic ignition car, so that ballast resistor will work with the electronic ignition...
 
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