Eastwood epoxy primer

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I recently got a gallon of Eastwood epoxy primer on a trade. Is it good epoxy primer? I bought a quart of spi with the intention of buying more later but since iv got this Eastwood I'm thinking about just using it. Originally i was gonna try and sell it to pay for the rest of my spi epoxy. Has anyone used it what was the results?
 
I was thinking about buying the white epoxy primer, so following along on your thread.
 
Use it. Anything epoxy is better than regular primer. I would use it and not think twice. A recommendation though. Get MEK at your local Lowes in the paint section to clean it out of your paint gun. Anything epoxy primer/paint related dries like ******* concrete Once it dries in your paint gun, you might as well throw it away. I have a nice Sata Jet HVLP copy I bought at my local auto body supply probably 17-18 years ago. Still works great.

I am using free out of date light grey radome primer from my job. It's a 2 part epoxy that's impact resistant. PPG Aerospace PN# 512x310. This stuff is freaking great. Dries hard as a rock in a few hours. Heres a rim I shot with it on friday afternoon.

I use paper disposable Dixie cups to dip out the primer and activator. I use one cup for each part so I dont contaminate the base or activator. About a half a Dixie cup of each part mixed up in a plastic paint pail is enough to primer one whole rim with none or very little material left over

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Just remember, epoxy primer is one and done. It doesn't sand. So you need to make damn sure you're ready for primer.
 
SPI epoxy can be sanded also. I don't have any experience with Eastwood, but SPI is phenomenal and very reasonable price wise.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Just remember, epoxy primer is one and done. It doesn't sand. So you need to make damn sure you're ready for primer.
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Yeah that’s not true, you can absolutely sand epoxy primer.

It doesn’t sand as nicely as a sanding or filler primer, but it can be sanded. Wet sanding it with a little dish soap in the water makes it easier too.
 
I used to use Kirker Enduroprime DTM when the local paint shop carried it. It sands well for additional primer to be used later.
 
I have noticed there is a lot of difference in Epoxy primers, some sand good at right time, others not so much. My opinion is expoxy primer is meant to give a good surface, specially on bare metal, for further work, as in a high build primer, then on ward. Let me say this, always look up the tech sheet on what you are using. It will tell everything.
I love SPI epoxy but when you read the sheet there are a lot of dos and don't and they can all it you in the ***!! if you don't know
Surely Eastwood has available a tech sheet for their epoxy. Eastwood sells good product but they buy the stuff from someone.
 
barbee6043 said:
I have noticed there is a lot of difference in Epoxy primers, some sand good at right time, others not so much. My opinion is expoxy primer is meant to give a good surface, specially on bare metal, for further work, as in a high build primer, then on ward. Let me say this, always look up the tech sheet on what you are using. It will tell everything.
I love SPI epoxy but when you read the sheet there are a lot of dos and don't and they can all it you in the ***!! if you don't know
Surely Eastwood has available a tech sheet for their epoxy. Eastwood sells good product but they buy the stuff from someone.
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Totally agree. I wouldn’t use an epoxy primer in place of a “sanding” primer. Or a sanding or high build primer in place of epoxy. But I have sanded epoxy primers and they are not “one and done”. I just wanted to say that epoxy primers can in fact be sanded, and they can.

Typically we would shoot an epoxy primer on the completion of bodywork to seal everything, including the bare metal, and then shoot a sanding primer over it. Both to use it as a guide and to make the next round of sanding easier. But sometimes we had our rose colored glasses on when we decided it was time to shoot epoxy, so further work was needed and sanding the epoxy coat was necessary. It’s not as nice as primers that are meant to be sanded but it’s by no means impossible.

And absolutely follow the tech sheet for the paint you’re using, that should go without saying.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Use it. Anything epoxy is better than regular primer. I would use it and not think twice. A recommendation though. Get MEK at your local Lowes in the paint section to clean it out of your paint gun. Anything epoxy primer/paint related dries like ******* concrete Once it dries in your paint gun, you might as well throw it away. I have a nice Sata Jet HVLP copy I bought at my local auto body supply probably 17-18 years ago. Still works great.

I am using free out of date light grey Akzo Noble radome primer from my job. It's a 2 part epoxy that's impact resistant. PN is 512x310. This stuff is freaking great. Dries hard as a rock in a few hours. Heres a rim I shot with it on friday afternoon.

I use paper disposable Dixie cups to dip out the primer and activator. I use one cup for each part so I dont contaminate the base or activator. About a half a Dixie cup of each part mixed up in a plastic paint pail is enough to primer one whole rim with none or very little material left over

View attachment 1715398144
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Good info. It can be hard to judge how much paint to use when painting wheels and other small parts without wasting the product, which has become quite expensive as we all know.
 
I've used Eastwood epoxy a bunch of times. As with all epoxies it's to seal your base work. Lay it on bare metal and take your time. You do your body work on top of it. To get adhesion to your build coat just a quick DA will do. Epoxy primers are not really primers. They should be considered more as sealers.
 
We use the dixie cups at work. I cut a u shape halfway down the side of 2 cups. One for the base, one for the activator. I submerge most of the cup until it fills up then hold it over the can until its level with the cutout in the side of the cup, then pour it into the mixing cup. I do the same with a duplicate clean cup with half the side cut away in the activator. This way I am getting my 1 to 1 material mix, and only dip out just what I need. This makes 1 full 8 oz Dixie cup. Plenty for spraying a steel car rim on all sides. And with an HVLP gun most of the material makes it where you want it, on the part.

This works great with full cans of primer too. No pouring. Just shake up the can and do the dixie cup dip. I put both of these cups inside third dixie cup on my workbench along with the used tongue depressor I used to stir it up. If theres a little left over it's about a thimble full. I pour that into the 3 stack of dixie cups and let it dry. After that then into the trash it goes
 
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Epoxy primer is great stuff. We used it after completely sand blasting a body as an encapsulator. Then body worked over the top, and then 2 coats of high build. Sand and repeat with high build. Makes for a great canvass for topcoat. I probably wouldn't use it for spot repair so much though.
 
After reading my previous post I should elaborate, as many hobbyists don't understand what epoxy primers are or how to use them.

Epoxy primers are the backyard guys best friend. They allow you to work on manageable sections without throwing your car on a rotisserie. They are available in spray cans too. You strip the area to bare metal, degrease it, and then epoxy it. That's it! You can take your time, do body work, whatever. Then you scuff it, lay on regular primer, and paint.
 
It grips tightly to the metal and seals out moisture. It's nice when you can strip and primer a panel with it, then if it gets rained on, you dont care because water wont penetrate it. It's like effing concrete when it dries. Really tough stuff.
 
moparmat2000 said:
It grips tightly to the metal and seals out moisture. It's nice when you can strip and primer a panel with it, then if it gets rained on, you dont care because water wont penetrate it. It's like effing concrete when it dries. Really tough stuff.
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Yup. I wish more people weren't scared of it. It truly is the hobbyist's best friend. I see a million cars that never get done. Epoxy primers are probably the single largest gift to the car community in the last 20yrs. Unfortunately most people don't realize how it can make a "HUGE" project become attainable.
 
Personally I love the stuff. Ya sure at $23 a gallon for MEK to clean my paint gun out it's a little pricey, but I get the out of date epoxy for free. Cant spray it on Airplanes past its expiration date. I am all too happy to help keep it out of the chemical recycling drum at work. The stuff I am using is made for acrylic enamel coating over the top of it. Looked at the Aircraft use expiration date, june 2011 !!! This stuff is 8 years past its aircraft use expiration date LoL!! Been sitting in the corner of my shop until i needed to use it. So I took the base component to work, and left it on the paint shaker for over an hour. Stirred right back up with no solids on the bottom. Drys fast, drys freaking hard, sands good.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
It's a heck of a sealer against bare metal.
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That's what I'm using it for I'm spraying epoxy over the bare metal then using a 2k to block the body as far as the engine bay goes I'm just gonna epoxy it and topcoat then clearcoat I'm not gonna waste the money on the engine bay with 2k. For now I'm just spraying the engine bay so I can get it ready for the engine I will focus on the body after it's running.
 
Maybe overkill maybe not, but I use the epoxy with some reducer as a sealer. The job is epoxy primer, then high build urethane primer, IF pitted metal I will use some polyester primer if needed, then a reduced epoxy as a sealer, then topcoat. I am maybe a little anal!?
I want no rust, as straight as my 71 year old body will allow, a decent topcoat,. IF not perfect I care less, I will drive it and it is just a hunk of metal, nothing rare!!!
 
Pascamp said:
After reading my previous post I should elaborate, as many hobbyists don't understand what epoxy primers are or how to use them.

Epoxy primers are the backyard guys best friend. They allow you to work on manageable sections without throwing your car on a rotisserie. They are available in spray cans too. You strip the area to bare metal, degrease it, and then epoxy it. That's it! You can take your time, do body work, whatever. Then you scuff it, lay on regular primer, and paint.
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That's pretty much exactly what I'm doing I'm doing one section at a time I dont have the time or space to strip the whole car down to bare metal and spray it whole in one day. I get to work on my car in 1 - 3 hour sessions tops. Somedays its 30 or 40 mins
 
Actually looked at the expiration date on the cans today, its aircraft use expiration date was June of 2011 so that's definitely more than the 4 years I guesstimated a few posts back, and just edited. LOL. I guess time sure flies. Even with the older date, this stuff still mixes well, sprays great, dries quickly, and adheres like nobody's business. Plus I used it as a filler primer when I sprayed it on to fill in small clean pits in the metal on the rim bead areas on the wheels that were left after I glass bead blasted them. I got a full kit that makes 2 gallons of mixed material, I plan on using the **** out of this. Thank God I am done with the blast cabinet at work, and priming 1 wheel per day. That was getting sucky. A bit more to go and I can paint the fronts on all of em with high gloss black.

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