Torsion Rod Adjuster Stuck
Hi
Again thanks for all the input. In the end I did cut the upper ball joint with a saw, having the car upp on jackstands and nothing under the control arm, it went down with a bang but I think it was better to do this way as if I have had a jack under the control arm I'm almost certain it would have thrown the body of the jackstands, (body basically just a shell now with most parts dissassembled). Never got the lower to let go. I normally also use the strategy with a big hammer and another as a counter on the other side if room enough. Didnt work this time and was starting make some marks on the lower so decided to let be for now and set it up on the bench somehow when lower is off the car. So basically now I have the tension off the Torsion bar and can start removing that but that won't be tonite.
Oldmanmopar, you had me concerned regarding poly bushings on strut and lower control arm, If I understand correct it is not the bushing material as such but they are different design and missing a shell the OE bushings have that make the difference? Need to check what I've got in the basement cause these are parts I already have at home.
Rods when putting back together will be brand new Mopar Performance 0,92 thick, Hellwig front & rear sway bar, Hotchkiss lowering rear leafs so I definitely hope I will be able to turn without ending up on the roof.
One check question, above I did get some advice on knocking lower control arm bolt flush with K-member, Should be the bolt in one of the pictures with the nut loosened?
Second thought, upper control arm ball joint, looking at it seems to me best to give a try to remove that one whilst still upper control arm on the car. As I understand it is threaded and when control arm the car as such holds it rather than trying to set it up in a wise and bend the metal it the ball joint doesn't want to cooperate?
Hi
Again thanks for all the input. In the end I did cut the upper ball joint with a saw, having the car upp on jackstands and nothing under the control arm, it went down with a bang but I think it was better to do this way as if I have had a jack under the control arm I'm almost certain it would have thrown the body of the jackstands, (body basically just a shell now with most parts dissassembled). Never got the lower to let go. I normally also use the strategy with a big hammer and another as a counter on the other side if room enough. Didnt work this time and was starting make some marks on the lower so decided to let be for now and set it up on the bench somehow when lower is off the car. So basically now I have the tension off the Torsion bar and can start removing that but that won't be tonite.
Oldmanmopar, you had me concerned regarding poly bushings on strut and lower control arm, If I understand correct it is not the bushing material as such but they are different design and missing a shell the OE bushings have that make the difference? Need to check what I've got in the basement cause these are parts I already have at home.
Rods when putting back together will be brand new Mopar Performance 0,92 thick, Hellwig front & rear sway bar, Hotchkiss lowering rear leafs so I definitely hope I will be able to turn without ending up on the roof.
One check question, above I did get some advice on knocking lower control arm bolt flush with K-member, Should be the bolt in one of the pictures with the nut loosened?
Second thought, upper control arm ball joint, looking at it seems to me best to give a try to remove that one whilst still upper control arm on the car. As I understand it is threaded and when control arm the car as such holds it rather than trying to set it up in a wise and bend the metal it the ball joint doesn't want to cooperate?
