Alternator bracket pic request

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Is that even the right alt bracket? The alt sitting that high is just horrible looking.
It's the set up that was on the engine that was in the car, but the original iron 340 X heads sat more flush with the block whereas the aluminum heads have a bit of an overhang, hence the clearance issues. Push comes to shove, I work at a university with a welding program. They have a CNC plasma cutting table, so I can make a template and have a custom bracket made to bring it lower and out further beside the head instead of in front of it. But I'll have to get the engine in the car first to make sure I don't run into clearance issues elsewhere. I have every confidence that I'll get it eventually, I was just hoping it would be easier....
 
If it works for you but there was no need for me to do that.
The clearance issue is in the first pic I posted in this thread, and that was at the max of the tension adjustment in the stock mounting location. Can you kindly share your set up? FYI, I'm running the pre 70 water pump because the lower radiator hose would be on the wrong side of the pump if I didn't.
 
few thoughts.
1. Is that WP new? I'd personally try to go aluminum, but if you have a new radiator you're trying to re-use, with those hose positions, I'd maybe look at this.
FlowKooler Hi-Flow Mechanical Water Pumps 1701

2. Check out the normal, inexpensive brackets, like in dusterdenovos pics. Thats all I've ever used. I can Mic an aluminum WP if you want to compare spacing fore/aft (to make sure its the same as your iron one)
Trans-Dapt Performance Steel Alternator Brackets 9456
trd-9456_ml.jpg

3. There are sources like CVF racing that have aluminum pulley kits, and alternator brackets, for fair pricing. They sometimes even have scratch and dent pieces.

let me know if i can help
 
The clearance issue is in the first pic I posted in this thread, and that was at the max of the tension adjustment in the stock mounting location. Can you kindly share your set up? FYI, I'm running the pre 70 water pump because the lower radiator hose would be on the wrong side of the pump if I didn't.

Maybe that's the issue. I was running the 70-up stuff and a different size belt fixed it for me and the alt sat at a proper height.
 
I don't know man. The water pumps appear identical other than the new on having an extra port on top. The alt and water pump pulleys line up well. I tried a single crank pulley that won't work, so I have to snag the double crank pulley off the old engine.

View attachment 1715398252

I’m just throwing stuff out there. It’s a common problem people have when swapping motors, radiators, and the like. In the world of pulleys and brackets, it can get mighty confusing if you’ve had a couple of each style and they get mixed up in the storage box. Just trying to help.
 
Just a question... if you used a round back alt would it have more clearance?
 
The last thing I would do was grind on the head! There is water there and you don’t want to find it. There is a solution to this without grinding. I ran a longer belt and modified the adjustment arm so it curved tighter. Pie cut and weld. That being said, I really liked running the internally regulated toyota 4runner alternator. Its smaller/lighter/ and usually in stock at the parts store. Comes with a single groove v pulley. I would change back to it if my class would allow it.
 
The last thing I would do was grind on the head! There is water there and you don’t want to find it. There is a solution to this without grinding. I ran a longer belt and modified the adjustment arm so it curved tighter. Pie cut and weld. That being said, I really liked running the internally regulated toyota 4runner alternator. Its smaller/lighter/ and usually in stock at the parts store. Comes with a single groove v pulley. I would change back to it if my class would allow it.
No worries man, there's no way I'm taking a grinder to that new aluminum head!
 
Alright fellas, I formulated a plan today. Being that I'm a painter/glazier by trade, I have plenty of scraps of Lexan kicking around. I'll make a template out of Lexan to have a new mounting bracket cut out on the plasma cutting table at the welding lab at the college where I work. I spoke to one of the instructors of the welding program (she's smoking hot and cool as hell so it's always a pleasure to have and excuse to talk to her, but I should really stay far away from her because OMG she's smoking hot and cool as hell), and she said they could make me a new bracket easily. There is a drilled and tapped hole in the lower outer portion of the head where I can mount the pivot bolt. The old block is still in the car, so I should be able to make a template to set the alternator down low while ensuring that I don't run into clearance issues under the hood. I will post a pic when I get it figured out. Thanks for all your input fellas, it was very helpful!
 
I kinda forgot to update. Sorry!

View attachment 1715468136
Belt looks long it May jump off. You may want to add an idler on the deflection side. I had that problem so I made mine as short as I could in the pictures above. I still ended up putting an alternator shut off on. I lost so many belts you could not imagine. I would see that little thing take off into the weeds in the rear view. I could never find them.
 
move it low and get rid of the mopar alt. I used the power steering bracket to mount it and a turn buckle for belt adjustment. It does not hit anywhere and only takes one short wire to the battery. Shuts off when it stops turning. Turns on as soon as it hits 800 rpms. 100 amps.

View attachment 1715396541
How often does a splash of water short out that alternator? Never driven in the rain? Even newer vehicles with all their splash shielding have their electrical mounted high and dry.
 
How often does a splash of water short out that alternator? Never driven in the rain? Even newer vehicles with all their splash shielding have their electrical mounted high and dry.
By the looks of my car and the rear tires does it look like it was a swamp buggy. LOL

New pics 374.jpg
 
If it was me and all the holes were in the correct location I would just make a set of appropriate thickness spacers for all brackets and pulleys and move the entire system forward enough to clear the head.
 
Just a suggestion about the water pump I have found that they make a marine water but will hit crank pully
 
The brackets in #19, are not any that I have seen. The brackets that you had made up would never go on my car. Seems to be an odd water pump, but you said that your pulleys are lined up. My opinion, but it's your brackets and spacers, not the cylinder head.

20220317_174056.jpg


20220425_184931.jpg
 
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